Flushing engine, hand start

[Meangreen]

Okay, I want to flush the engine of my hand start B and it says to run the tractor for a few minutes with kerosene in the crank case. Unlike the electric start engines there is no way to immediately shut off the engine when it's running. How do you guys handle this?

The last time I changed oil on my hand crank A, I disconnected the plugs and turned it over by hand through 30 complete compression cycles. Arms were a bit tired at the end.

Thanks

 

[Husker44A]

Meangreen...I just did this with my 44 handstart A.I first removed oil filter and cleaned cup, installed a new filter. I started the engine let it get to operating temp by letting it idle for about 5 minutes. Then at half throttle untill almost warm. Then at full throttle until opeerating temp. Dumped in 1 gallon of #2 diesel. Ran it at 1/4 throttle for about 10 minutes. Then drained oil. Re-filled with 30w.

 

[Husker44A]

Forgot to say after I drained diesel/oil after the 10 minutes I did re-install a new filter again..I know they are $9.00 a shot but it hadn't been done in a long time. If at all..

 

[CLW]

You can choke it, or put it in high gear, throttle at idle, hold brakes and push clutch in.

 

[Meangreen]

@husker - I was wondering how safe/hard it would be to run the engine with no oil in it. Apparently it can handle it for a few minutes, which is good to know. Thanks.

@CLW - I would prefer not to flood it to kill the engine quickly because it's a pain to get restarted after it's been flooded, but thanks for the ideas.

 

[Husker44A]

I left the engine oil in just cleaned the filter cup and put in a new filter. Ran engine with diesel in the oil. Then, drained drained oil/diesel. Installed new filter again.

 

[fixerupper]

I remember dad flushing the 35 A with fuel oil back in the days before detergent oil. Don't remember how long he ran it, but it was recommended by the old JD mechanic back then.

We always choked it to kill it. Just takes a little timing. Idle clear down, full choke for no more than three or four revolutions,choke back off and it'll coast to a stop. More choke and it'll be flooded. Not enough choke and she'll start back up and we go through the process again (not often) I only run it once a year now but I still have the touch. When shutting it down to store it, turn off the gas and walk away. Choking does wash the cylinders a little and you do want to keep all the cylinder wall oil you can if it's going to sit a long time. Jim

 

[Meangreen]

Okay, I think I have got it now. Bring it up to temp, add 1 gal of diesel to the oil, run for 10 minutes and then drain.

I believe the manual says to drain the oil first, then add diesel and run for a few minutes and that is where I was confused. When we changed oil in my '51 A we would drain it, add diesel, run for 30 seconds to 1 minute and drain because we didn't think it was good with no oil in there.

Once again, thank you everyone I have learned something new today!!!

 

[jbp]

Believe the operators manual says to drain oil while warm, then add 1 gallon flushing oil {kerosene or diesel) then run a few seconds, not minutes, then drain.
Thats from the 60 manual.
Joe

 

[dennis oconnor]

With modern oils I see no reason to scar the bearings, etc. by running it with kerosene, etc. in it... Drain it warm, put in fresh oil, run it for a couple of minutes to get the fresh oil all through the engine and you are done...

denny-o

 

[Canadian Ken]

I have flushed the crankcases of 4 JD's I brought back from Manitoba - removed the starter and crankcase cover - drained the oil and filter -put on blue surgical gloves and scooped all the sludge I could reach - most had about 1/2 inch on the bottom - install drain plug and dump 2 gallons of diesel fuel in crankcase - use parts cleaner brush and stir up the diesel fuel - drain out the mixture - worked good
Ken