For first time grain drill operators

Farmallb

Well-known Member
I can tell, by the way some people call certain implements, that this is their first year of actively farming. That being said, Im going to give a short lesson the operation of grain drills in the field. Others can respond with their valued views, and with all the responds the new farmer can get used to using a drill can select what hopefully will work for them
In operating a drill for the first time, Make sure that all the discs turn freely. I have a 1924 Wood box IHC drill circa 1924, that I just used to plant 6 acres of wheat with. I found I had 3 discs that were froze up. I unbolted them from the drop shoe and freed them up and replaced them back onto their shoes.. Grease the disc zerks probably no more than 5 pumps with a grease gun each. Make sure you have ALL the chains on EACH FURROW OPENER, AND IF YOU DONT THEN GET AND PUT THEM ON WHERE NEEDED. aS SETTING THE DRILL IS LIKELY MUCH DIFFERENT FOR VARILOUS MAKES AND THE TIMES IN WHICH THEY WERE MADE, ILL NOT give any recommendations as to what settings to use for various crops. I planted wheat with the same settings I used for Sudan grass, and it looks pretty good at around 2in above ground now. The chains were put on each furrow opener for a reason that the manufacturors knew that they were needed, and so supplied them when the drill was new. There needed NOW on whatever drill your using. IF needed, I can give a place that still sells them. There not all that expensive. I bought 4, needing 3. They do occasionally fall off through vibrations around where the chain itself hooks to the opening shoe.
#2. When in the field, make sure that the wheel nearest the already drilled path is on the same wheel mark left when making that first run. ALWAYS try to keep the wheel and the wheel marks from the last run down the field together as much as possible.. Backing the wheel that is on the side your turning on can break off the disc from its mounting. I had that happen as a kid. I bought this drill for $1.75 in 71. Put a new box on it then for $12, and replaced that 10yrs ago for $50.n . Some people usta harrow their ground after sowing. I have never done so and neither did dad or grandad, so I cant say anything about the effectiveness of doing that. Other than the expenditure of gas to do so, Ill not disparge it any.
Always drill seed such as sudan grass, which is the same size as milo seed near as shallow as possible and yet see that theres none showing above ground that can draw birds, or get washed into view by hard rains.
 
NO you do not put the wheel on the wheel mark from the previous round! You have to overlap by putting the new wheel mark on the last furrow from the previous pass. Otherwise you will leave a streak of NOTHING planted for double or more the furrow spacing. You don't want to look stupid...
 
(quoted from post at 11:59:33 04/01/21) NO you do not put the wheel on the wheel mark from the previous round! You have to overlap by putting the new wheel mark on the last furrow from the previous pass. Otherwise you will leave a streak of NOTHING planted for double or more the furrow spacing. You don't want to look stupid...

Yup. Neighbor did that years ago. Had a nice strip effect in his field.
 
Brother did that his first year, uncle sure harassed him about it until the tracks were covered up, he was maybe 20 and dad passed away the year before. Uncle drilled with the same drill for 40+ years.
 
Your old drill must be different than any one I've ever used if you're running the wheel in the old wheel mark. I think you might have an awful wide skip when it comes up.
 
Different drills will require a different overlap depending on the distance between the tire and outside row. On both of my drills (a Deere B and a 8350) the tire needs to go on the ridge between the outer two rows of the previous pass to get the correct spacing.

In Farmallb's defense he did say he was using a wood-box drill from the '20s which likely has tall, skinny steel wheels so for that style of drill the wheel-on-wheel spacing might be correct. The distance from the outside opener to the wheel centerline would have to be half of the run spacing which might be possible if the wheels were really skinny and really close to the openers and the drill had a relatively wide run spacing. But, like you said, for most all drills you gotta overlap the tire tracks to some degree.
 
We used, I think the number is 2052 combine chain that came off of an old Gleaner combine. They also had it at the local dealer well used that they would just give you. We used it in about a foot or foot and a half length. It is the type of chain that has square links. One end is round with a slot cut in it. You slide the other link in the slot and turned it and that hooked it together. It has been several years ago, but I saw a brand new roll of it it a farm store. There was a small lug on the back of the shoe with a hole in it. We wired them on with a piece of electric fence wire. Just make sure it lays flat.

Also be careful when you go to stop. Sometimes the drill will roll backwards and dirt will plug up the shoe. You won't know it until the drop tube fills up and it runs out the top under the box.
 
If I run on the previous wheel track I will have a 4 foot overlap
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I have to clear the spider webs out of all my seed tubes. Grass seed is so light it won't fall through so I got some stripes until I learned. Wheat seed will plunk through , but oats won't.
 
As somebody else said, you need to run the wheel on the mark from the end seed disc from the previous pass. When it comes up, you'll see what we mean.
 
I always thourougly clean out all seed when I am finished. Then take a blow gun and blow out all nooks and crannies,Especially the metering ports on the bottom. In spring,I once again blow it out thouroughly anain. Includeing the drop tubes,as the spiders like to make their homes in them.Use a full flow blow gun,not one of those new low pressure 'safty' nozzles.As said,you have to have an appropriate amount of overlap so not to have skips.A lot of guys like to hang a 2x4 the length of the drill across the front of the tractor. They hang a short length of chain down to the ground. That help maintain proper spaceing by giveing a reference to drive by.
 
Turn the feed shafts each time before using to make sure they are not stuck. Check both sides. This will drop a few kernels down each tube too to make sure all is clear for the seeds.
 
(quoted from post at 11:59:33 04/01/21) NO you do not put the wheel on the wheel mark from the previous round! You have to overlap by putting the new wheel mark on the last furrow from the previous pass. Otherwise you will leave a streak of NOTHING planted for double or more the furrow spacing. You don't want to look stupid...


Streaks of nothing planted do not make you look stupid. It shows that you are intelligent enough to farm well enough to be able to afford a lot of HOLIDAYS, LOL.
 

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