Ford 1520 HST issues

philipg

New User
My Ford 1520 started having driving issues. Push on the forward/reverse foot pedal and it would verily move. So changed out filters and that didn’t help much. Has maybe 20-30 hrs on new hydraulic fluid. No foam and is still quite clean. That seemed to help a little, but have to have it at 2200-2500 rpm’s to get any movement. What’s weird is the loader bucket seems to work fine and can easily lift bucket of gravel, but then the tractor won't move at all. I was going to check the hydraulic pressure, but can’t find a photo or diagram exactly where to check it at. Hopefully I won’t have to replace that costly hydraulic pump. Any ideas or advice is greatly appreciated.
 
The clutch works good and disengages. Sometimes it creeps so I use the clutch for safety if someone is close to where I am working.
 
I don’t have a lot of experience, but everything I have dealt with on several tractors that I have owned doesn’t seem like that would be it. I have replaced the clutches on a tractor and skid steer. The pedal doesn’t always return so sometimes I have to use the clutch to stop. If it was slipping that wouldn’t always be possible or it would creep after I did. This tractor is a work in progress and is for my kids to use at their homes if needed. “Family tractor”.
 
Hello Phillip, welcome to YT! You are not understanding what Harry is telling you. Yes the clutch has to disengage and stop transferring power to the hydrostat to stop. On the opposite side the clutch has to properly engage to transfer power to the hydrostat. It looks like a normal clutch pedal with throw out bearing etc. My guess is that it should have some free play. That is what I would check first. Pedal should move a 1/2 to 3/4 inch easily(push by hand) before the TO bearing contacts the clutch fingers. If you don’t have this you will need to adjust it so you do. If no free play the the clutch may be held partly released which leads too slipping.
CNHI Ford 1520 parts catalog Here is a link to the manufacturers parts catalog for your tractor.
 
I don’t have a lot of experience, but everything I have dealt with on several tractors that I have owned doesn’t seem like that would be it. I have replaced the clutches on a tractor and skid steer. The pedal doesn’t always return so sometimes I have to use the clutch to stop. If it was slipping that wouldn’t always be possible or it would creep after I did. This tractor is a work in progress and is for my kids to use at their homes if needed. “Family tractor
I don’t have a lot of experience, but everything I have dealt with on several tractors that I have owned doesn’t seem like that would be it. I have replaced the clutches on a tractor and skid steer. The pedal doesn’t always return so sometimes I have to use the clutch to stop. If it was slipping that wouldn’t always be possible or it would creep after I did. This tractor is a work in progress and is for my kids to use at their homes if needed. “Family tractor”.
You need to check clutch linkage and free play first. If clutch is slipping tractor will not creep when you push clutch pedal. When tractor won’t move while running engage pto, if pto doesn’t turn it’s more than likely a clutch problem. That’s a simple system, clutch, hydrostat, pump. Clutch is the first place to look
 
Thanks everyone. PTO works fine. I have clutch pedal play as you stated. I have talked to a hydraulics mechanic and he thinks it is a stuck high pressure relief valve.
Next we are going to do the Charge Pump Relief Valve test per Service Manual.
*** Also to clarify, the creeping might have been the wrong word to use. When I push on the pedal, it verily moves. Same when I try to go in reverse.***
I am praying it is not issues with the pump located inside the clutch housing. It has a high pressure valve there also. But if that is the case, the clutch plate would be looked at. I just don’t want to split the tractor. That’s a pain.
 
It may have a hydrostatic transmission, but it still has a dry clutch ahead of it. Have you considered a problem there?
Hi, after lots of research, I am believing you might be correct. It is either the clutch or the charge pump located inside that same bell housing. Either way it looks like I have to split the tractor. Do you know anything about rebuilding the charge pump? Thanks
 
Hi, after lots of research, I am believing you might be correct. It is either the clutch or the charge pump located inside that same bell housing. Either way it looks like I have to split the tractor. Do you know anything about rebuilding the charge pump? Thanks.
Maybe you have come to understand this now after more research but how well the hydraulics operate your loader has nothing to do with the hydrostatic drive system to completely separate systems. If you have a repair manual I am surprised that you don’t realize the charge pump is inside a case with the “driving element/ hydraulic motor as well. CNHI Ford 2520 HST parts diagram See the link the “charge pump” is the group of parts under key 14, a second group of parts also labeled as key 14 is the “hydraulic motor” part of the hydrostatic drive. To diagnose what you have going on I need to know how the PTO is engaged (turned on and off) does the foot clutch need depressed to engage the PTO? If so and you say the PTO works fine your problem is 100 percent in the hydro drive. Otherwise from what I see in the parts diagrams when the tractor will not or barely moves the PTO should slow way down or stop when you try to engage the hydro drive pedal due to the drive clutch is slipping. As far as repair of the unit I would suggest you contact Herrs Machine Hydrostatics in KS in this link and see what they say. Herrs Machine
 
Thanks Used Red MN.
Yes, I finally had figured out where the charge pump was located there in the housing by clutch. I found that the clutch was previously adjusted to tight, so it was like “riding the clutch” scenario. I am quite sure the clutch is worn out now. But I will check it for sure today on how the PTO reacts. I have spent many many hours studying the Service Manual and Parts Manual. I have (long ago, lol) replaced clutch on an 8N and Hinomoto tractors, but neither had HST. But I have concluded that whether it’s the charge pump or clutch, I have to split the tractor. I have not been able to find a rebuild kit for the charge pump, just individual parts in the Parts Manual. Maybe Herrs Machine can help me with that. Thanks for your imput.
 
I am going to try that in a few min. I am in Idaho, so headed out shortly. Finish removing loader. Just got the dust caps for hydraulics from Amazon.
 
Special thanks to Harry in KY, Used red MN and Red MVa for all your help.
I adjusted the clutch and Praise the Lord it runs perfectly. But I sure learned a lot about my tractor.
By the way Used red MN, I could put the PTO into gear without pressing the clutch down. What does that info mean to you?
Sorry everyone for being, what would you say, stupid. Sort of like making sure something is plugged in, rebooting the computer. lol
Thanks again
 

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Special thanks to Harry in KY, Used red MN and Red MVa for all your help.
I adjusted the clutch and Praise the Lord it runs perfectly. But I sure learned a lot about my tractor.
By the way Used red MN, I could put the PTO into gear without pressing the clutch down. What does that info mean to you?
Sorry everyone for being, what would you say, stupid. Sort of like making sure something is plugged in, rebooting the computer. lol
Thanks again
Good to hear. Not even the slightest chirp of gear grinding? Have you ever used the the PTO to run any equipment? Was the process the same that just move the lever to engage it? If you haven’t used anything PTO equipment you probably really can’t help me. It’s a moot point now, not worth more explanation.
 
There was a little sound, but it wasn’t like grinding gears, just engaging. No, haven’t used PTO. It’s really just for my kids and I to use around our houses for moving stuff, cleanup, grading and that type of thing. I have two sons and a daughter and their family living within a mile here in a small town, so we can just run it between houses. No need to trailer. Works out good.
 
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