Ford 1900 Engine Swap

[jonathanlyon_ford1900_nz]

Hi all

I would welcome some advice, please. I'm in New Zealand, and I have three 1980 Ford 1900s .

Tractor 1 - my main first and main tractor - 2WD, turf tyres, previously used as a boat tractor runs well, no issues
Tractor 2 - recently purchased 2WD, agricultural tyres, runs well, PTO seized, lift arms don't work as it has lost all its hydraulic/trans oil
Tractor 3 - recently purchased 4WD, agricultural tyres, engine seized, tinware very corroded, chassis looks strong, hydraulics and PTO seem fine but untested

I'd really like to get the 4WD running as it's getting very muddy and wet here as it's winter here in New Zealand and the 2WD are not coping well.

My plan is to try and unseize the engine in the 4WD and swap the tinware from Tractor 2. If I can't unseize it, I'd like to put the motor out of Tractor 2 into Tractor 3 (same engine number LEM853). I wanted to know if there would be any issues with this with it being 4WD?

Additional Hydraulics Question

None of the tractors have rear remotes or FEL's and I'd like to attach the red 3 point hitch fork lift attachment (as can be seen in one of the photos below). I have read so many conflicting ways of doing this, it's made my head spin .

Can anyone please give me a simple explanation as to how to do this, if indeed it's possible? The forklift has a single cylinder, one hydraulic hose only and I recently purchased a valve with a lever that might be useful but I have little experience with hydraulics to know if is or not

Thanks in advance for any help anyone can provide.

Cheers

Jonathan

 

[Bob NY]

First question about the seized engine. Is it seized from water getting into 1 or more cylinders or is it seized from lack of oil?

 

[jonathanlyon_ford1900_nz]

Hi Bob

I'm not sure at the moment. I'm removing the exhaust this morning to see if I can see any water and I'll also remove the glow plugs and see if any water comes out when turning the engine over by hand. I'm hoping it's water ingress

Thanks

Jonathan

 

[used red MN]

I'll also remove the glow plugs and see if any water comes out when turning the engine over by hand.

Hello Jonathan, welcome to YT! Here if an engine is “seized” it generally means it is locked and unable to be turned. Apparently your part of the world may use terms differently. Doesn’t really matter, drain the engine oil or at least loosen the plug and see what comes out right at first. Water go to the bottom below the oil.

 

[jonathanlyon_ford1900_nz]

Hello Jonathan, welcome to YT! Here if an engine is “seized” it generally means it is locked and unable to be turned. Apparently your part of the world may use terms differently. Doesn’t really matter, drain the engine oil or at least loosen the plug and see what comes out right at first. Water go to the bottom below the oil.

Thanks for your reply. I was under the impression that if water has got into one or more of the cylinders, it could be seized with rust, or possibly hydrolocked, and not through heat due to lack of oil, which I understand would likely be terminal.

I am unable to turn the engine over with a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft, but I'd like to see if I can turn the engine over with the glowplugs removed and see if any water sitting on top of the pistons is blown out.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

In theory I don't see a problem with your plans for the engine swap, but I'm not an expert on this specific model. Manufacturers like to re-use parts wherever possible so you can usually bank on that in these situations, especially when both tractors are the same model.

You are in the ideal position to tell if it will work or not. Get the tractors side by side and give them a good look-over. I'd imagine the major difference between the two is the front end, which just bolts to the front of the engine block. Ideally you'd just swap the front end from the 4WD to the 2WD, but I don't think the 2WD rear end has the internal gearing to turn the driveshaft that powers the front wheels.

Won't hurt to try to unstick the engine, but I don't hold out much hope. It would have to have taken on water and hydrolocked VERY recently for it to simply be water in a cylinder. If it's been sitting with water in it for any length of time, it's rusted.

 

[Blackhole49]

In theory I don't see a problem with your plans for the engine swap, but I'm not an expert on this specific model. Manufacturers like to re-use parts wherever possible so you can usually bank on that in these situations, especially when both tractors are the same model.

You are in the ideal position to tell if it will work or not. Get the tractors side by side and give them a good look-over. I'd imagine the major difference between the two is the front end, which just bolts to the front of the engine block. Ideally you'd just swap the front end from the 4WD to the 2WD, but I don't think the 2WD rear end has the internal gearing to turn the driveshaft that powers the front wheels.

Won't hurt to try to unstick the engine, but I don't hold out much hope. It would have to have taken on water and hydrolocked VERY recently for it to simply be water in a cylinder. If it's been sitting with water in it for any length of time, it's rusted.

X2 on the hydrolocking. If it is water stopping it from moving, I would think there would be some slight movement in the crank with the breaker bar.