Ford 2000 alternator conversion

So after testing my charging system I
determined I had a bad VR. I replaced it
with a new one and still issues. I decided
to go with a chevy alternator and do away
with the generating system. I have a good
alternator and I've found I can buy the
tach drive from yesterdays tractor for 27$.
I can fab up a mount easy enough.

I am wondering what the best way is to
wire in the new alternator? My tactor
wiring is pretty clean so I dont want to
rewire the whole tractor.
 
Most of those conversion kits come with instructions. The important thing is to join the 3 heavy wires together at the regulator junction with a good tight connection, such as a wire nut.

Also, the alternator you install will be able to put out nearly 3 times what that old genny did. Ideally you would upgrade the wiring size as well, however that should not be necessary unless you intend to tap into the extra available power with the installation of a bunch of extra lights or a cab with heat and AC!
 
There are 5 wires plus a ground that hook to your Vreg. 3 big fat wires and two skinny wires.
Connect the 3 big, fat wires together.
Connect the 2 skinny wires together. Reconnet the ground to the chassis.
Then click on the link below for an easy diagram on how to connect the alternator. Just make a short jumper wire to connect from #2 terminal to the batt connection.
Your charging light needs to work. If not check the bulb.
It really is that easy.
Click and scroll about 1/3 down for the diagram
 
Thanks for information I will make sure to add engine info next time. I am wondering to how hard it will be to add the tach drive to the alternator. Has anyone added a tach drive to a run of the mill gm alternator?
 

It's not a easy job, the rear bearing will have to be changed, the regular alternators have a closed rear bearing shell to keep dirt and moisture out.
Conversion alternators have a open ended rear bearing for the tach drive, the armature shaft will also need to be drilled and threaded or the tach drive adapter to thread into.

I've converted 3 of my tractors with alternator kits, the charging system works great and the alternators have held up well, over 20 years of regular farm use on the first conversion.
The one down side is the tach's read 3-400 rpm fast, I've gotten somewhat used to it but have to remind others to set the rpms higher on the tach to get proper pto speed.
 
Thanks for the response. I think I may just
order a kit. They are on sale on Ebay for
about 120. I did not realize the tach would
read fast!
 
(quoted from post at 21:00:17 12/17/19) Couldn't a guy just put a different dia
pulley on the alternator to get the tach
to be more accurate?

I had the larger 4" pulleys on a couple of the old Lucas generators bored to fit the Delco alternators replacing the 3" pulley them came with.
This helped but not enough, one of the large 5" racing pulleys might get it pretty close but I'm concerned about the alternator spinning fast enough to put out enough charge at engine idle.

I had 5 lights on my 4000 at one time, 2 headlights, plough light and 2 added work lights, at night when I idled to engine with all of the lights on the charge indicator light would have a dim glow.
I never tested it but figured with the 4" pulley it was on the edge of not charging enough at idle.

I use my digital tach to check pto output shaft speed, then adjust rpm up or down until I get 540 pto rpm, then I use a paint marker to make a mark on the tach's glass where the needle is pointing.
On 3 cylinder models 540 pto is 1800 engine rpm.
On 4 cylinder models 540 pto is 1900 engine rpm.
When using implements I set the tach needle to the mark on the glass, I know that gets me the correct rpm and pto speed I need no matter what the tach says.

Was mowing with MIL's 5600 and the engine didn't sound right, checked pto speed and found the tractors 6200 hr original engine driven tach was off nearly 300 rpm, it now has a paint mark at 2200 for pto speed but I know the engine is only turning 1900.
 
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