Ford 2000 Diesel Electrical

[winslo]

So, I took the dash panel out of the 2000 and found no connections. When the 2000 first took up residence in our side yard, I discovered a rat nest under the cowl on the tank. I pulled and blew out what I
could until a later time. Which is now. After removing the panel, more nest was removed including the petrified remains of the culprit. Got all that out of the way and on the burn pile, then back to the
nightmare called wiring. Close inspection of the wires showed Brer Rat had been busy indeed. Nips and chews all over. I broke out my wiring odds and ends and decided not to use liquid tape but to butt join
all that I could. Analysis shows that on this tractor, wiring consists of 12, 14 and 16 gauge wire to the panel, light and ignition switches, loomed together from an 8-pin connector at the firewall. The
ignition switch has five tabs, including two two-tab fixtures and a single tab. The ignition switch is fed by two 16 gauge wires and three 12 gauge wires. The light switch has four tabs, one two-tab fixture
and two single tabs, with a two-wire feed to one of these. The light switch is fed by two 16, one 14 and one 12 gauge wire. If I err on gauge size I welcome correction. The firewall plug has eight incoming
and outgoing wires as follows: four 16, two 14 and two 12 gauge wires.
At some point in its life, the electrical system has been upgraded to an alternator. There were two wires running from the firewall plug to the alternator, one 16 gauge and one 10(?). There are no
connections of any kind to the voltage regulator. There is no connection to the firewall ground bolt. There are two 14 or 12 gauge wires running from the plug to the starter solenoid. All other wires are
cut and missing. And that concludes my message at this time. Your observations, critique and remarks are welcome.

 

[Sean in PA]

The alternator is most likely a modern one with the VR internal to the alternator, so the original VR should not be connected to anything.

Get a copy of either the Ford Service Manual or the I&T FO-31 after market service manual. They both have full schematics for the wiring. Since it has been converted to an alternator, the original schematic will not be 100% correct for how it needs to be wired now.

Do both wires going from the firewall plug to the alternator connect to the same spot on the alternator, or do they go to two separate connection points?

 

[Ultradog MN]

You should Always tell us if you have a 1962-64 four cylinder tractor or a 1965-75 three cylinder 2000.
Neither model came with an alternator so things have been changed somewhere in the past.
It sounds like you have a 3 cyl.
Here is the wiring diagram from the I&T FO-31 manual which you should get if you plan to keep that tractor.
Click the link below to buy one from this site.

nnalert the 3 cylinder 2000 Manual

 

[JMOR]

Others may know, but I don't. Is this the 4 cylinder or 3cylinder 2000?

 

[Tom in Mo.]

I hate mice. And rats.
I just cleaned out a big mouse nest from the 1620 dash and last week I cleaned out a five gallon bucket of rat nest from behind the Bobcat engine. What a mess. A friend had a squirrel move into his new Ford diesel while inside the garage and devoured a bunch of expensive stuff while there.
The wiring of your 3 cylinder 2000 should look just like the wiring diagram excepting the alternator conversion which is pretty simple and has been covered here a zillion times. As stated, the regulator is not used with the alternator. I feel your rat pain.

 

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 04:38:46 05/29/23) Others may know, but I don't. Is this the 4 cylinder or 3cylinder 2000?

By his description I would wager good money a 3 cly.

 

[winslo]

Thanks for your responses. My message is both incomplete and inaccurate. The 10(?) gauge wire did not come from the firewall plug. It came from the output(?) terminal of the alternator and ended
in a mangled battery clamp in the battery tray. And I apologize for my failure to say up front that this is a three cylinder diesel with smooth hood, no louvers. I did not mention there is an appendage to
the wiring loom that I believe is a white w/red tracer 12 gauge wire that is connected to itself in a loop with a round plug. The single 16 gauge wire to the alternator goes to the plastic two-wire plug on top
of the alternator. The 10(?) gauge wire originated from the other tab at the plastic plug, went down to the output terminal, was stripped and connected there, then up to the battery tray and clamp. Here are
the wire gauges and colors that I have identified so far, and some of their probable destinations. Beginning at the firewall plug outbound side, using the ground-style connector pin as origin, 12 brown
no/tracer to starter solenoid, 16 brown w/yellow tracer cut, 12 yellow (possibly white) w/red tracer to starter solenoid, 14 brown w/red tracer to alternator; next row below in reverse, 14 blue or maybe gray w/red tracer cut, 16 yellow w/gold tracer, 16 black no tracer cut, and 16 green w/yellow tracer cut. On the inbound side of the plug, I have identified these: to the dash, 16 green w/blue tracer to tab (to be
discovered), yellow w/gold tracer to dash light, brown w/yellow to dash light, and that's about it for the dash. Ignition switch has 14 brown w/red tracer on twin tab, 16 white or yellow, 12 white w/yellow tracer, and two
12 browns on the twin tab. The light switch has two 16 red on the twin tab, 12 brown on the single tab and 14 or 16 white or yellow w/red tracer on the last tab. By now my eyes are crossed and colors blurred
so if there are errors, my mistake. Thanks for the wiring diagram and the advice. I appreciate your knowledge and your willingness to share it.

 

[Hobo,NC]

This is a aftermarket harness from Sparex. You can google it for a better pix. Ultradog has a post on how to easily make it work for a alternator. I doubt I would be doing much patching as my time would consume the cost in a hour, YMMV.

The convince of the 8 terminal plug is nice when taking the cowl off. Pull the instrument cluster
back enoufh to take the tack cable and the wire off the fuel gauge screw the cluster back on and pull the cowl.