Ford 2000 won t stay running

[FordNorte]

Hello everyone, I am new to the forumthanks in advance for your help.

I have owned a ford 2000 3 cylinder gas tractor over a year and has been working fine. Two weeks ago I was running it and I stopped to change a gravel blade and it never came back

It starts and cranks but when they key switch goes back to the "run" position it stops. I think it is an electric problem have I haven t been able to figure out.
I thought it s was the key switch so I replaced it and that didn t fix the problem.

Looking in the forums I understand when I open the key switch I should get power to the solenoid on the returning cable, is this correct. Currently I am not getting any readings when I turn the key.

Any ideas? Thank you

 

[Sean in PA]

There are two wires that provide power to the primary of the coil. One is from the key switch and it should have a resistance wire in line with it, or that may have been replaced with a ballast resistor. The resistance wire or ballast resistor provides a voltage drop so that the full 12 volts is not going to the coil when running. The other wire is the bypass wire from the solenoid which provides the full 12 volts to the coil while the starter is turning, which makes it easier to start. It sounds like something is wrong with the wire from the key switch through the resistance wire or ballast resistor so that it is not providing power to the coil when the key switch is in the run position. Another possibility is the run position of the key switch itself is not functioning properly.

 

[FordNorte]

(quoted from post at 17:38:21 04/14/23) There are two wires that provide power to the primary of the coil. One is from the key switch and it should have a resistance wire in line with it, or that may have been replaced with a ballast resistor. The resistance wire or ballast resistor provides a voltage drop so that the full 12 volts is not going to the coil when running. The other wire is the bypass wire from the solenoid which provides the full 12 volts to the coil while the starter is turning, which makes it easier to start. It sounds like something is wrong with the wire from the key switch through the resistance wire or ballast resistor so that it is not providing power to the coil when the key switch is in the run position. Another possibility is the run position of the key switch itself is not functioning properly.

Sean, thank you for the info. Tomorrow I will trace those wires to make sure they are ok

 

[FordNorte]

(quoted from post at 18:20:01 04/14/23)

(quoted from post at 17:38:21 04/14/23) There are two wires that provide power to the primary of the coil. One is from the key switch and it should have a resistance wire in line with it, or that may have been replaced with a ballast resistor. The resistance wire or ballast resistor provides a voltage drop so that the full 12 volts is not going to the coil when running. The other wire is the bypass wire from the solenoid which provides the full 12 volts to the coil while the starter is turning, which makes it easier to start. It sounds like something is wrong with the wire from the key switch through the resistance wire or ballast resistor so that it is not providing power to the coil when the key switch is in the run position. Another possibility is the run position of the key switch itself is not functioning properly.

Well, I followed the wires from the solenoid to the key switch and everything seems to work. No resistors on the way though

Don t understand why it cranks, starts and when the switch back to run it stopswondering if it is not electrical or something else

 

[Jim.ME]

Duplicated post removed

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 04/16/2023 at 04:31 pm.

 

[Jim.ME]

If it starts and runs, then dies when the key is released to spring back to run, the switch itself may be bad. Does the key spring back to run on its own or do you have to turn it back? Hook a test light or voltmeter to the coil terminal the two wires are on. Make sure the tractor is in neutral. Turn the key to start and you should have power at the terminal. Release the key to run and see it the terminal still has power. If not the switch or wire from the switch to the coil is bad.

The wire from the switch could have a resistor wire in it, not a porcelain ballast resistor. Your wiring diagram should tell that.

 

[Destroked 450]

(quoted from post at 18:07:45 04/16/23)

(quoted from post at 18:20:01 04/14/23)

With the key on make sure you have voltage at the terminal the wire is connected to
If not the wire is connected to the wrong terminal or the switch is defective

 

[FordNorte]

The key, goes back to runI put a news switch but I d did the sameperhaps bad luck and I got a defective switchtomorrow I will post the electric diagram.

I should clarify the tractor was running I stoped and and it hasn t worked properly

 

[Jim.ME]

Do some testing before buying anymore parts.

 

[FordNorte]

(quoted from post at 18:46:20 04/16/23)
Do some testing before buying anymore parts.

Yes, let s step back

1. Let s start by testing the key switch

Here is what about have:
A three position switch witch four wires.

- wire from battery and to light
This wire always has 12 v
- wire to start solenoid and to safety gear
This wire has 12 v when in "start" position
- wire to instrument panel
- wire to voltage regulator
These wires have continuity in "run" position

I would like to understand what happens when the switch is in "run" position so I can test all the connections.

What I mean what should happen when I turn the key to "run" position so the tractor can run?

Thanks again for all your help

 

[Sean in PA]

(quoted from post at 06:52:30 04/17/23)

(quoted from post at 18:46:20 04/16/23)
Do some testing before buying anymore parts.

Yes, let s step back

1. Let s start by testing the key switch

Here is what about have:
A three position switch witch four wires.

- wire from battery and to light
This wire always has 12 v
- wire to start solenoid and to safety gear
This wire has 12 v when in "start" position
- wire to instrument panel
- wire to voltage regulator
These wires have continuity in "run" position

I would like to understand what happens when the switch is in "run" position so I can test all the connections.

What I mean what should happen when I turn the key to "run" position so the tractor can run?

Thanks again for all your help

All wires should have continuity from one end to the other regardless of what position the key switch is in, so your point about the wires to the instrument cluster and the VR having continuity when the key switch is in the run position tells us nothing other than those two wires are not broken. They should have continuity when the key switch is in the off position also, as well as in the start position. If you meant to say that they have 12 volts when in the run position, then the key switch is operating correctly in the run position. Without a voltage reading on those wires when the key is in the run position, we cannot tell you whether the switch is working properly in the run position or not.

You do not mention a wire from the run position of the key switch to the coil, and whether that wire has a resistance wire (fat section of wire inside of heat shrink) or a ballast resistor in-line with it, so it sounds like that wire is completely missing. It is one of the two wires I mentioned in my original reply.

Trace the wires from the two small posts of the coil. One of those posts should have a single wire going to the distributor. The other small post should have two wires connected, one going to the solenoid and the other going back to the key switch. Depending on what has been done to it over the years, that wire may have the original resistance wire section in it, or it may have a ceramic ballast resistor in-line with it, or if the coil was replaced at some point with a 12 volt coil that requires no external resistor, then the wire may go straight to the key switch, but from your description above, that wire is not connected to the key switch at all. The wire from the solenoid to the coil only provides 12 volts to the ignition circuit when the key is in the start position. Without that second wire, the coil will not have power once you let the key drop back to the run position.

 

[FordNorte]

(quoted from post at 06:25:40 04/17/23)

(quoted from post at 06:52:30 04/17/23)

(quoted from post at 18:46:20 04/16/23)
Do some testing before buying anymore parts.

Yes, let s step back

1. Let s start by testing the key switch

Here is what about have:
A three position switch witch four wires.

- wire from battery and to light
This wire always has 12 v
- wire to start solenoid and to safety gear
This wire has 12 v when in "start" position
- wire to instrument panel
- wire to voltage regulator
These wires have continuity in "run" position

I would like to understand what happens when the switch is in "run" position so I can test all the connections.

What I mean what should happen when I turn the key to "run" position so the tractor can run?

Thanks again for all your help

es, you are right!!!that's the wire that is missing. From the coil to the key switch...How did it work before??? let me go and check in case I missing something.

Thank you again.[/b:ad593a0fb6]

update. I found the wire that goes from the coil to the key...it was the same wire that went to the voltage regulator...now i have to trace that wire to see where is the problem...Now the electric system makes sense...I will go again tonight to see if I found where is the problem with that wire. Thank you so much!!!

This post was edited by FordNorte on 04/17/2023 at 07:10 am.

 

[FordNorte]

(quoted from post at 06:43:51 04/17/23)

(quoted from post at 06:25:40 04/17/23)

(quoted from post at 06:52:30 04/17/23)

(quoted from post at 18:46:20 04/16/23)
Do some testing before buying anymore parts.

Yes, let s step back

1. Let s start by testing the key switch

Here is what about have:
A three position switch witch four wires.

- wire from battery and to light
This wire always has 12 v
- wire to start solenoid and to safety gear
This wire has 12 v when in "start" position
- wire to instrument panel
- wire to voltage regulator
These wires have continuity in "run" position

I would like to understand what happens when the switch is in "run" position so I can test all the connections.

What I mean what should happen when I turn the key to "run" position so the tractor can run?

Thanks again for all your help

All wires should have continuity from one end to the other regardless of what position the key switch is in, so your point about the wires to the instrument cluster and the VR having continuity when the key switch is in the run position tells us nothing other than those two wires are not broken. They should have continuity when the key switch is in the off position also, as well as in the start position. If you meant to say that they have 12 volts when in the run position, then the key switch is operating correctly in the run position. Without a voltage reading on those wires when the key is in the run position, we cannot tell you whether the switch is working properly in the run position or not.

You do not mention a wire from the run position of the key switch to the coil, and whether that wire has a resistance wire (fat section of wire inside of heat shrink) or a ballast resistor in-line with it, so it sounds like that wire is completely missing. It is one of the two wires I mentioned in my original reply.

Trace the wires from the two small posts of the coil. One of those posts should have a single wire going to the distributor. The other small post should have two wires connected, one going to the solenoid and the other going back to the key switch. Depending on what has been done to it over the years, that wire may have the original resistance wire section in it, or it may have a ceramic ballast resistor in-line with it, or if the coil was replaced at some point with a 12 volt coil that requires no external resistor, then the wire may go straight to the key switch, but from your description above, that wire is not connected to the key switch at all. The wire from the solenoid to the coil only provides 12 volts to the ignition circuit when the key is in the start position. Without that second wire, the coil will not have power once you let the key drop back to the run position.

[b:47b573d014]Yes, you are right!!!that's the wire that is missing. From the coil to the key switch...How did it work before??? let me go and check in case I missing something.

Thank you again.[/b:47b573d014]

update. I found the wire that goes from the coil to the key...it was the same wire that went to the voltage regulator...now i have to trace that wire to see where is the problem...Now the electric system makes sense...I will go again tonight to see if I found where is the problem with that wire. Thank you so much!!!

I think I have found the faulty cable...now i need get and get some connectors and see how that goes.

This post was edited by FordNorte on 04/17/2023 at 07:10 am.

 

[Destroked 450]

The wire that runs from the key switch to the coil does not go to the voltage regulator
There s a hot wire coming from the battery post on the regulator and a wire from the switch thru the dash warning light to the wl terminal on the regulator

 

[FordNorte]

(quoted from post at 16:33:56 04/18/23)
The wire that runs from the key switch to the coil does not go to the voltage regulator
There s a hot wire coming from the battery post on the regulator and a wire from the switch thru the dash warning light to the wl terminal on the regulator

The wire from the key to the coil is the issuewill update with progress tomorrow.
Thank you