Ford 2600 Pertronix issue

[Dispatchrobb]

I've been searching some Pertronix issues, but have not quite come up with a fix for my issue. I hope I may find some assistance, if able.

Ford 2600 3 cyl Gas. I replaced the Ignition with the 1231 Pertronix, upgraded the coil and installed a Ballast Resistor. Tractor started right up, and ran for about 5 minutes and stalled. Could not start it again. I did not realize the tractor had a Ballast Wire, and Coil was no longer good, no resistance showing from Pos or Neg to high voltage wire. Got a new coil, removed the ballast wire and ran regular wire from the wire from the ignition, to the Starter relay, to the Ballast Resistor to coil. I can't get any spark. Coil is good, Pertronix Ignitor is good. I get 12 V to Ballast Resistor, 12V to the Coil, (after ballast resistor should this be 6V?) Ran 12V direct to red wire on Ignitor. All Grounds are good. Still no spark. Magnet on the ignitor when spun voltage goes 12 to 0, so ignitor is working. Coil resistance is good. No spark.

Anyone have a clue what I'm screwing up or have screwed up? It started and ran wonderful for 5 min and then nothing so that drives me even more insane.

 

[old]

Most likely you fried the electronic ignition. Doesn't take much to do so and tat is why I stick with points. I have tractors that have the same points in them as they did 5-10 ears ago

 

[Steve@Advance]

What coil are you using? If it is a true 12v coil, it doesn't need a
resistor.

If there is a part number on the coil, look up the specs and see if it needs
a resistor. Only if you are using a 6v coil or the coil says it needs a
resistor should a resistor be used. You can also check the resistance across
the primary terminals out of circuit. A 12v coil will have around 3 ohms
resistance, no resistor needed with that one. A 6v coil will have about 1.5
ohms, that will need a 1.5 ohm resistor to work properly.

To test the voltage at the coil, with the ignition on, temporarily ground the
- terminal of the coil. Check the voltage to ground at the + terminal.
Without a resistor it should have near battery voltage. With a resistor, it
should have about 6 to 8 volts. Do your test quickly so not to overheat the
coil!

If you have a test light, connect it to the - terminal of the coil and
ground. Spin the engine, the light should flash, the coil should spark. Light
always off, the Pertronox or wiring is shorted to ground, the coil is open
internally, or no power to the coil. If light is always on the Pertronix is
bad, the wire between the coil and distributor is open, or the distributor
plate or housing has lost it's ground.

Where have you lost spark? At the coil tower or at the plugs? If there is
spark at coil, the Pertronix and coil are good. If spark at the coil but not
at the plugs, there is a problem with the cap or rotor, or possibly something
is assembled wrong with the Pertoronix causing the coil to fire when the
rotor is not aligned with the cap terminals.

 

[Tramway Guy]

Did you use resistor wires to the spark plugs. It is a must for
Pertonix ignition.

 

[Dispatchrobb]

Ok, finally got out there to test... Coil is 6V, tested just over 6V. Also the Light stayed on, so I guess the pertronix igniter is bad. Only thing that happened was that the tractor had a resistor wire, and I incorrectly installed a ballast resistor.... which made the coil go bad, and I guess also made the Ignitor go bad. Ran real nice for 5 minutes until it slowly just quit running like a battery dying. I was in the other building, so I didn't get to it in time to just shut it off, maybe would have saved something.

My bad... I'll get another one and now that I have the coil and ballast resistor right, I shouldn't have any issues.

Thanks,

 

[Dispatchrobb]

Yes, I have the correct spark plugs and wires recommended for this set up.

 

[Dispatchrobb]

Ok, I gotta back track, as I didn't check the coil to distributor high voltage wire thinking because it was brand new, how could it be that, and just assumed the Ignitor.... yep... it's open somewhere. Wire is brand new, but needle doesn't even move when testing for resistance.

I'll first change out that coil wire and see what happens. I already threw out the old wires, otherwise I'd throw one of those on there just to see if it worked or not. Off to the parts store.

Thanks