Ford 3000 3 point

Josh M.

Member
Location
Northeast Ohio
Picked up a 1965 3000 with a 3 point that lifted really slowly. So I drained the oil and got sludge and water, pulled the top cover to find a layer of sludge on the bottom and a few gear teeth. Return filter was plugged and the suction filter was torn and completely packed with sludge. Fast forward with new oil, o-rings where needed, return filter, and a suction filter that I made because the original style is no longer available anywhere. I started the tractor and I have no 3 point at all now. Pressure tested the pump at only 30psi at maybe 1500 rpm. Tore the pump apart and it looks immaculate, no stuck pistons, no scores or scratches, none of the check valves are stuck. Is there a relief valve that could have stuck open somehow? Im not sure how this pump could be bad with as good as it looks, and the 3 point functioned before I tore it apart.

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How did you test the pressure? If it is pumping without doing any work then it won't build any pressure. the proper way to test the pressure is to chain the lift arms down and then test the pressure when trying to lift the arms. That should cause it to reach the maximum pressure of the relief valve, which is should be between 1800 and 2200 psi. If it still reads low, then there may be something inside the lift cover that is dumping the fluid back into the sump, like a stuck unloader valve.
 
I put the pump back together and couldnt get it to prime
unless I put air in the rear end. So I ordered a rebuild kit
incase the shaft seal is worn out. Pulled the top cover off
again and found a really worn o-ring on the unloader valve,
so I ordered a seal kit for the top cover. Guess I shouldve
tore all that apart before.
 
I had similar tractor, Ford 2000. I drained the hydraulic fluid (was common with rear differential). Hydraulic pump lost prime. Lift wouldnt work until I got the pump primed. I think you are right to rebuild the pump
 
My 2000 was failing to lift or chattering at low temps. The pump looked good so I went through the whole lift but it didn't change anything. Got a pump kit from this site and replaced all the check valves, springs and gaskets but it didn't bleed out easily. I put a hose barb in the bleed port and ran a clear line back to the fill port and let it run. Looked good till I shut the engine and saw all the bubbles in the line. I just let it run for a while and it cleared up. Could also be that the relief valve has junk in it going by your description.
 
If it's not priming, the more likely culprit is a leak at either end of the intake tube that runs between the pump and the right side of the center housing. Both ends of that tube are just sealed by o-rings and the chances are that one or both of those o-rings has seen better days.
 
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