Ford 3000 - no 3 point hydraulics

supton

New User
Recently I decided to rebuild my engine mounted hydraulic pump because it was starting to leak near the snap ring and suction line, plus there was some jerkiness at times in the hydraulics.
All went well, rebuilt the pump, which included replacing a worn wobble shaft and the cone bearing. After this, I had good hydraulics on the 3 point for a few days. While doing some heavy boom pole lifting, I did notice it was still a little jerky, so I decided to bleed the pump real quick while the engine was at idle (big mistake). I unscrewed the plug too much and it fell out of my hands, along with a several gallons of hydraulic fluid before I had the brains enough to shut off the engine (it was still flowing out at this point, so it didn't suck it dry). In the barn I had a gallon of hydraulic fluid so I poured that into the tractor, started up and the 3 point worked fine (but also didn't have a load on it either). I give this detail of my clumsiness, because what comes next I don t know if it is related or just a coincidence.
After topping off the hydraulic fluid the next day, I started the tractor and put an 800lb load on a boom pole and that is when I noticed problems. With nothing on the 3 point, it would raise fine, but with a boom pole by itself or even a small trailer hitch attached, it might raise an inch after 10 minutes when idling. If I increased the RPMs to 1400, it would take about a minute to raise. If I took my hands to raise the lift arms with the implement on, then the tractor would hold the height and not drop. Flow control valve is open all the way and the draft control is turned off.
Not knowing what else to do, I decided to rebuild the lift cover, mainly to see if any of the valves were stuck. Everything looked fine, installed new all the seals and also replaced a broken spring that connects to the sump return tube (part # C5NN6N400C). The valves in the lift cylinder moved free, the hydraulic fluid is in great condition, a quick visual of the return filter looked good. There is also flow from the bleeder screw at the pump.
With all of this, after reassembly I still get nothing. I then decided to buy a cheap gauge kit (Vevor from Amazon) and connected it to the hydraulic cover blocking plate. Reading zero pressure, so I'm wonder if this is accurate or do I need to do an additional step to get a good reading? (or is it due to a cheap gauge)
After all of this, with some helpful advise from Ultradog on another forum website, I screwed a hose barb to the pump and looped a clear hose back to the fill hole behind the seat. Ran the tractor for almost an hour while working on other things in the barn, hoping this would clear any air in the system. While doing this, I was getting a steady flow from the pump and I suspect it would be the 5 gpm that the pump is rated for. However, still no change, no hydraulics pressure.
At this point, I've ordered another rebuild kit after talking with Ultradog. This is due to the fact that I'm reading zero pressure at the block and the suction tube looks to be in good shape (no major rust or other damage).
Before opening up the pump next week, should I be looking at other things too? Today I took the side sheet metal off to get a better look at everything and noticed a very slight fluid build-up near the bottom of the suction line. Think air might be getting through?
I don't mind tearing into the pump again, but I've spent a month on this hydraulic issue and time is my biggest aggravation right now. I need to get the tractor back to work on the property and want to avoid long delays waiting for parts if there is also something else I could be looking into.
Any advice would be appreciated.

This post was edited by supton on 04/14/2023 at 09:58 pm.
 
Just to update. After weeks of fighting with the no hydraulics issue, I disassembled the pump and found portions of the suction o-ring clogging a ball valve and several retainer clips under the pressure plate were broke. Reassembled everything with a new rebuild kit, and still nothing.
As of today, I've installed a new pump and still nothing. The only change is that I hear a slight vibration/rattle when the rpms are up and I'm attempting to raise the life arms.
I've yet to hook up a pressure gauge, but at least now I can say the pump is good (and the wallet lighter).
So this weekend I guess I'll try to remove the top cover again and inspect everything. Any suggestions on specific areas I should be looking at?
 
(quoted from post at 11:10:03 04/27/23) Just to update. After weeks of fighting with the no hydraulics issue, I disassembled the pump and found portions of the suction o-ring clogging a ball valve and several retainer clips under the pressure plate were broke. Reassembled everything with a new rebuild kit, and still nothing.
As of today, I've installed a new pump and still nothing. The only change is that I hear a slight vibration/rattle when the rpms are up and I'm attempting to raise the life arms.
I've yet to hook up a pressure gauge, but at least now I can say the pump is good (and the wallet lighter).
So this weekend I guess I'll try to remove the top cover again and inspect everything. Any suggestions on specific areas I should be looking at?
inding 'trash' in pump, would make me suspect 'trash' it among the valves in the lift controls.
 
Agree and that is a big part of the reason for me removing the lift cover. When I took the pump off, one of the retainer clip prongs fell out of the pressure port. There were multiple retainers broke and I recovered all the parts within the pump except 2 prongs. While I'm hoping I may have missed them or they fell out while bleeding the pump, at this point I need to inspect the system to be certain. Will start at the flow control valve as that seems to be immediately down-line from the pump.

This post was edited by supton on 04/27/2023 at 09:03 am.
 
Over the weekend I got back into the hydraulics. Upon disassembling the flow control valve, a piece of one of the ball retainers from the pump dropped out. With further inspection, another piece was wedged in the base of the plunger bore and thus keeping the plunger from closing (#9 on the Messick's diagram - part #E172GF9GR). After cleaning this up, I went to replace the pressure side filter and found another piece of a retainer clip in the back pressure valve.
After inspecting everything else, I reassembled the top cover, started the tractor, and the hydraulics work perfectly.
 

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