Ford 3000 - Power Steering

[Rusty_S85]

Well Ive been putting it off long enough, I need to rebuild my factory power steering system. The right ram finally stopped leaking and blew out and now when you put pressure to the ram it sprays fluid out.

So now heres my question, I have looked but keep finding numerous options for parts. I am trying to find the proper parts for this tractor which I believe is a '68 year model diesel 3000.

First off I will be doing just one side due to cost and will then do the other side at a later date.

So I am looking at the following parts.

Ram cylinder
Ram cylinder tie rod end
Drag link
Drag link tie rod end

What are the proper parts for this tractor?

I am looking on the store for this site right now and I see a RH and a LH and I assume RH would be the right side if you are sitting on the tractor.

Another thing is hoses, does anyone really sell the power steering hoses that connect to the metal hard lines? I hate to get rid of the hard lines and run the replacement style hose.

 

[RM-MN]

Can you just put in a seal kit or did the cylinder blow a hole? Is the tie rod straight and what size (1/2 or 5/8 are the choices) is it.

 

[Ultradog MN]

I've been running a pair of aftermarket
steering cylinders on my 3000 for 10 years
now with no issues. Except... The little
brass fittings they give you that screw into
the cylinder where the lines hook up wanted
to leak.
I had to buy a Locktite product that's made
for hyd fittings to stop the leak. Cleaned
both sides with lacquer thinner before I
added the Locktite to insure a good bond.
No reason you can't reuse your existing
metal lines if they are still good.
The drag link/tie rods are very expensive to
replace. What I and others here have done is
buy the rear tie rod ends for a 3000 Without
PS. Then cut off the old ends and weld the
new ones on. Measure accurately. And get
them turned the right direction.
The photo is of my own 3000 tie rods after I
welded the new ends on.
A little grinding/sanding, a little bondo
and paint and you can't tell I did it.
Saved a lot of $ that way.
If you have a welder do it for you make sure
you show him there's a left and a right so
he gets the direction correct.
In every vehicle - ships, trucks, tractors,
skidsteers, etc, etc the left and right are
defined from the driver,s seat.

 

[Ultradog MN]

A standard 3000 would use the 7/16" (not 1/2") rod. The 3400 used the 5/8".
The tapered hole in the drag link for the cylinder tie rod is a different size between the 7/16 and 5/8.
I put 5/8 ones in my 3000 but had to make those cylinder tie rods ends.
Tractor Guru John Smith says he found the correct tie rod ends to adapt the 5/8 rod to fit the 3000 drag link but I could never find them . Thats why I had to make them.
Maybe someone here knows or John will weigh in with a part # or link.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Thanks for the reply.

I figured it up and I can do one side at a time as I'm looking at $405.74 for the RH side that is the drag link, the drag link tie rod end, the power steering cylinder, the cylinder tie rod end, two radius rod ball sockets caps and two radius rod socket caps.

Thing is though the one I priced out for the power steering cylinder is the 14 1/4" length 1/2" rode with 7/16" threaded end. So this is not the correct one for this tractor then?

I want to be sure as I know your not supposed to mix sizes between sides and I will be using it with the other original ram till it starts to leak while running then I would replace that one as well.

Like wise the power steering filter, the one shown on here is a pancake style while mine looking through the filler opening appears to be a tall filter.

 

[Rusty_S85]

(quoted from post at 03:40:31 05/09/16) Can you just put in a seal kit or did the cylinder blow a hole? Is the tie rod straight and what size (1/2 or 5/8 are the choices) is it.

Its an original one that the piston and shaft can not be removed from. The seal is leaking but the shaft near the end of the travel is pitted. I am afraid using the rebuild kits I have would work till the pits tear the boot and I am back at square one.

I cant replace the shaft assembly as I have seen it stated oem ram cylinders are not able to be fully disassembled.

 

[Rusty_S85]

(quoted from post at 10:06:23 05/09/16)

(quoted from post at 03:40:31 05/09/16) Can you just put in a seal kit or did the cylinder blow a hole? Is the tie rod straight and what size (1/2 or 5/8 are the choices) is it.

Its an original one that the piston and shaft can not be removed from. The seal is leaking but the shaft near the end of the travel is pitted. I am afraid using the rebuild kits I have would work till the pits tear the boot and I am back at square one.

I cant replace the shaft assembly as I have seen it stated oem ram cylinders are not able to be fully disassembled.

Cant edit my original post, but heres a photo I have of the ram cylinder. sadly I forgot to try to measure it to see the size when I was there this past Saturday.

You can see the shaft is pitted some which was why I was reluctant to rebuild it. I thought of doing it to save money but now I am thinking about the time it takes me to rebuild it and then having it leak again.

 

[Destroked 450]

I have a local machine shop that rebuilds these cylinders for me by cutting the weld off at the back of the barrel and making a new rod out of chromed steel, replacing the packing and seals then welding it back together.
Not much savings over new aftermarket cylinders today other than still having the original barrel and fittings.

 

[Ultradog MN]

My bad.
The coffee was still brewing when I wrote
that.
You are correct, the rod is 1/2". It's the
threaded end that is 7/16".
Why are you replacing the radius rod sockets
and caps?
Most guys just install a penny in them to
tighten them up.
What about my suggestion of welding new ends
on your existing drag links?
Get by for $13 instead of $90

 

[Rusty_S85]

(quoted from post at 10:59:12 05/09/16)
I have a local machine shop that rebuilds these cylinders for me by cutting the weld off at the back of the barrel and making a new rod out of chromed steel, replacing the packing and seals then welding it back together.
Not much savings over new aftermarket cylinders today other than still having the original barrel and fittings.

With how cobbled together this tractor is I don't know if I want to spend the money to have theses repaired vs just replacing them.

(quoted from post at 11:17:43 05/09/16) My bad.
The coffee was still brewing when I wrote
that.
You are correct, the rod is 1/2". It's the
threaded end that is 7/16".
Why are you replacing the radius rod sockets
and caps?
Most guys just install a penny in them to
tighten them up.
What about my suggestion of welding new ends
on your existing drag links?
Get by for $13 instead of $90

Ah ok, scared me for a moment as I thought that I now had to replace both rams as they were not the right size anymore.

I'm reading the sockets and caps as the movement in them is so horrible and so much I would have to stick atleast two to three pennies in there to take the forward and backwards slack out. The ball honestly looks like it could pop out how much it moves. That is why I am replacing them vs putting a penny in there. For the cost of the parts I rather just replace it vs trying to band aid it and have to do it at a later date.

On the welding part, I have entertained the idea. Problem is to do this I have to buy the stuff hope its right drive 110 miles to where the tractor is at take it apart and hope I have enough time to find a welder that is still open on a Saturday to do the welding. The towns there they tend to close around noon so its one of thoses damned if you do damned if you don't thing. I had to pull the front tires and rims off and leave it on blocks a whole week and come back down the next weekend just to get tires mounted as the tire shop closes at noon on Saturdays. I leave the house here at 8 and get there around 9:30 to 10 depending on traffic then have a couple hours to fight to get the stuff apart.

For the cost I am just contemplating replacing it at this point.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Want to thank everyone that has responded. I changed my mind on this. I was going to replace this stuff but its not that bad. I ordered a rebuild kit two of them for a Ford power steering ram cylinder for a '60s model automotive application, it has more seals in the kit than shown in the photo for the rebuild kit on the stores page.

So I will just be rebuilding this one. Going to use some emery cloth and polish up the shaft and remove the rust pits before I disconnect the ram from the ball joint end to slide the seals out to replace them.

I how ever will be buying the radius rod caps to replace as well as a power steering filter. the tie rod ends are not bad they don't have slack in the normal sense that would make them fail on a vehicle they just have torn boots and no grease on them. I might get new boots for it and drill some holes in them to install zerk fittings ive done this before at work.

I just need to figure out what power steering filter as mine is a huge tall filter in my reservoir and the one listed on here is a pancake style.

 

[Rusty_S85]

(quoted from post at 19:04:32 05/10/16) Want to thank everyone that has responded. I changed my mind on this. I was going to replace this stuff but its not that bad. I ordered a rebuild kit two of them for a Ford power steering ram cylinder for a '60s model automotive application, it has more seals in the kit than shown in the photo for the rebuild kit on the stores page.

So I will just be rebuilding this one. Going to use some emery cloth and polish up the shaft and remove the rust pits before I disconnect the ram from the ball joint end to slide the seals out to replace them.

I how ever will be buying the radius rod caps to replace as well as a power steering filter. the tie rod ends are not bad they don't have slack in the normal sense that would make them fail on a vehicle they just have torn boots and no grease on them. I might get new boots for it and drill some holes in them to install zerk fittings ive done this before at work.

I just need to figure out what power steering filter as mine is a huge tall filter in my reservoir and the one listed on here is a pancake style.

The power steering repair kits I have is two Edelmann kits part number 7877. I hope this is right as I cant remember but this kit has grooved washer, a blue plastic cup, two rubber springed seals, the brass star washer, and a snap ring. If I am thinking right I can take and use just what I need out of this kit and should be fine.

 

[Destroked 450]

(quoted from post at 19:04:32 05/10/16) Want to thank everyone that has responded. I changed my mind on this. I was going to replace this stuff but its not that bad. I ordered a rebuild kit two of them for a Ford power steering ram cylinder for a '60s model automotive application, it has more seals in the kit than shown in the photo for the rebuild kit on the stores page.

So I will just be rebuilding this one. Going to use some emery cloth and polish up the shaft and remove the rust pits before I disconnect the ram from the ball joint end to slide the seals out to replace them.

I how ever will be buying the radius rod caps to replace as well as a power steering filter. the tie rod ends are not bad they don't have slack in the normal sense that would make them fail on a vehicle they just have torn boots and no grease on them. I might get new boots for it and drill some holes in them to install zerk fittings ive done this before at work.

I just need to figure out what power steering filter as mine is a huge tall filter in my reservoir and the one listed on here is a pancake style.

If your canister is on the pump with the fill cap under the generator it takes the short filter.
If the canister is above the generator up under the hood where you have to open the hood to get to the fill cap it takes the tall filter

 

[Rusty_S85]

(quoted from post at 21:22:54 05/10/16)

(quoted from post at 19:04:32 05/10/16) Want to thank everyone that has responded. I changed my mind on this. I was going to replace this stuff but its not that bad. I ordered a rebuild kit two of them for a Ford power steering ram cylinder for a '60s model automotive application, it has more seals in the kit than shown in the photo for the rebuild kit on the stores page.

So I will just be rebuilding this one. Going to use some emery cloth and polish up the shaft and remove the rust pits before I disconnect the ram from the ball joint end to slide the seals out to replace them.

I how ever will be buying the radius rod caps to replace as well as a power steering filter. the tie rod ends are not bad they don't have slack in the normal sense that would make them fail on a vehicle they just have torn boots and no grease on them. I might get new boots for it and drill some holes in them to install zerk fittings ive done this before at work.

I just need to figure out what power steering filter as mine is a huge tall filter in my reservoir and the one listed on here is a pancake style.

If your canister is on the pump with the fill cap under the generator it takes the short filter.
If the canister is above the generator up under the hood where you have to open the hood to get to the fill cap it takes the tall filter

Where do you get the tall filter? I already placed my order as I could not find anything other than the short pancake filter. My reservoir is under the hood requires the left side of the hood to be opened to get to the filler cap.

I don't have a part number on this and cant find nothing online about the filter. I checked multiple sites including here, asap and a few others couldn't find a tall filter.

 

[Destroked 450]

Internet search Messick's tractor parts.
Filter # C7NN3N538A crosses to new number 81816823, in stock, $28.92
You'll also need a new seal for the cover.
Seal # C5NN3D587B crosses to new Number 81429965, in stock, $13.78
They have on line ordering.

 

[Rusty_S85]

(quoted from post at 19:06:31 05/11/16)
Internet search Messick's tractor parts.
Filter # C7NN3N538A crosses to new number 81816823, in stock, $28.92
You'll also need a new seal for the cover.
Seal # C5NN3D587B crosses to new Number 81429965, in stock, $13.78
They have on line ordering.

Thanks for the reply. I will hit up the ford/new Holland dealership the tractor was bought from if they don't have any on hand I will just order a pair. Its too late in the week to get it by Friday to have it for Saturday when I am doing this job.