Ford 3000 project - getting it started

Do Ford tractor engines turn backward from others? All of mine turn counter clockwise when viewed from the flywhel end. When viewed from the fan end they turn clockwise. I remember crank starting a farmall B and that cranked clockwise
No Ford engines do not turn backward from all others. Clockwise when facing the fan (counterclockwise when viewed from the flywheel end) is common for most engines.
 
If the exhaust has been open all those years and the oil drained for a few years .I would guess the engine is stuck with no oil in the bearings or pan and pipe open not a good start. I would skip the starter so you don't have the ring gear and starter drive to fix. Sitting that long with dry cylinders it should turn by using a fan blade and pushing on the belt to keep it tight. I doubt it is going to turn upon what you have about the exhaust and the drained oil.
 
If the exhaust has been open all those years and the oil drained for a few years .I would guess the engine is stuck with no oil in the bearings or pan and pipe open not a good start. I would skip the starter so you don't have the ring gear and starter drive to fix. Sitting that long with dry cylinders it should turn by using a fan blade and pushing on the belt to keep it tight. I doubt it is going to turn upon what you have about the exhaust and the drained oil.
Ok thanks, what do you suggest ?
 
No Ford engines do not turn backward from all others. Clockwise when facing the fan (counterclockwise when viewed from the flywheel end) is common for most engines.
Yeah I was being a little facetious in that response #15 claims that the engine turns counter clockwise when viewed from the front. I know that all but a very few engines turn clockwise when facing the front and counter clockwise from the driver's seat.
 
If the exhaust has been open all those years and the oil drained for a few years .I would guess the engine is stuck with no oil in the bearings or pan and pipe open not a good start. I would skip the starter so you don't have the ring gear and starter drive to fix. Sitting that long with dry cylinders it should turn by using a fan blade and pushing on the belt to keep it tight. I doubt it is going to turn upon what you have about the exhaust and the drained oil.
I find that position rather hard to defend. Having no oil in the pan won't cause any of those conditions. (just my opinion here) With oil in the pan up to proper level the only thing lubricated is the oil pump pickup screen. Everything else is high and dry, same as it was when the engine was last running. Any issues cause by non use for long periods of time with or without a covered exhaust will not be affected by oil in the pan or no oil in the pan. Any of those conditions causing starter or ring gear failures is not very likely. I've found several situations where engines have water in the cylinders or stuck pistons and have yet to see a damaged starter or ring gear because of it.
 
Hmm I’m not sure which transmission it has to be honest. Also the tyres are flat and won’t take air so rocking would be hard.
Jack one rear wheel off the ground and rock the night away... If you don't have a jack, now is the time to invest in one. It is an essential tool for working on tractors. A simple 6 or 12 ton bottle jack is fine.

Going to have to work on this "don't know, don't know" bit. That means some research on your part. A good place to start is Tractordata. Pay particular attention to the transmission page. Figure out how to identify and read the serial number on the tractor. Compare yours to pictures you find on google.

https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/2/5/259-ford-3000.html
 
Remove the starter from the engine. Then using a pry bar with a flat end and working through the hole engage the teeth on the ring gear on the flywheel with the pry bar. Use leverage try to turn the engine. If its not locked it should turn. Easiest way to determine if the engine is free. If its not then, no need to run and buy a battery or try and inflate rotten tires. If it does turn then, proceed as you see fit.
 
Lots of good suggestions here but a helping hand would be better
There’s a FB group called: Ford Worldwide, Force & 600 Series Appreciation Group administered by a gentleman from Ireland with a large number of followers from there
Check there and you may find someone close by
 
Ok thanks, what do you suggest ?
I've just scanned most of this discussion, so bear with me. The first thing I would do is pull the oil drain plug and see if ANYTHING comes out. If its just a few dribbles of oil, (based on your "I drained the oil" statement) put the plug back in and fill the crankcase with a good oil. That means when the engine turns over, at all, it will start moving oil up into the engine to lubricate stuff. Then proceed with the other things people have mentioned. I would caution you that you may break something in the injection pump. So I'd wait for a reply that says your model of pump will not be damaged by trying to start the tractor. I don't have the knowledge, but others do. They will need the pump model number and the manufacturer to determine if it is safe to start the tractor after sitting. Keep us apprised of your progress.

On another note, the YT user's map shows a member up near Limerick. I wouldn't be too surprised if there were other members not posted on the map. steve
 
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As I see it, your choices are few. If I were faced with this, (and doing it on a budget) I would try airing up the tires and tow starting it. If the tires won't hold air, then it's got to have the starter working. Beg, borrow, steal, (or buy) a known GOOD battery and start there.

Check (and add if needed) engine oil. Hopefully it isn't way over full indicating problems with fuel or water in the mix. I wouldn't worry about hydraulic fluid or engine coolant just yet. Same with fuel and/or filters. You can deal with that AFTER you see and hear it run. I recently started two 50 series John Deeres that had been parked for nine years, and both started right up (with new batteries) on the old fuel and filters.

I would bleed the fuel filter(s) first, then bleed to the injection pump. After that the engine must be turning over to go any further. I wouldn't fool with the filters yet, because even if you know what you're doing, you will no doubt make getting it running even harder than if you leave them alone. I would try towing it first rather than buying a battery, but there is always a chance the clutch will be stuck.
Be careful trying to pull start. If the clutch is stuck and it starts you have to stop the engine to stop the tractor.
 
Thanks everyone !
I’m currently on holidays which is why I haven’t replied but I hope you don’t think I’ve abandoned the project! I really appreciate the feedback and help and hope to reply more in depth to each of your feedback

I understand the “I don’t know, I’m not sure” is something that needs work, which will come and thanks for being patience with my ignorance and naivety.

Can someone just comment, if it is stuck in gear, will I be able to turn the flywheel when taken off the starter? And if it’s stuck in a low gear I imagine I won’t be able to rock the back wheel correct?
So would the best solution be, in this case, to get the oil and battery and try start and be ready to quickly kill the engine if it starts? Or will it even be able to start if it’s stuck in gear. Thanks and I will do my own reading and reply more in depth soon.
Matt.
 
Thanks everyone !
I’m currently on holidays which is why I haven’t replied but I hope you don’t think I’ve abandoned the project! I really appreciate the feedback and help and hope to reply more in depth to each of your feedback

I understand the “I don’t know, I’m not sure” is something that needs work, which will come and thanks for being patience with my ignorance and naivety.

Can someone just comment, if it is stuck in gear, will I be able to turn the flywheel when taken off the starter? And if it’s stuck in a low gear I imagine I won’t be able to rock the back wheel correct?
So would the best solution be, in this case, to get the oil and battery and try start and be ready to quickly kill the engine if it starts? Or will it even be able to start if it’s stuck in gear. Thanks and I will do my own reading and reply more in depth soon.
Matt.
Go get yourself the I&T FO-31 manual.
Then in the words of the great John Muir the writer of How To Keep Your Volkswagen Alive ( the manual for the complete idiot)
" Read it cover to cover like it's a novel."
 
Thanks everyone !
I’m currently on holidays which is why I haven’t replied but I hope you don’t think I’ve abandoned the project! I really appreciate the feedback and help and hope to reply more in depth to each of your feedback

I understand the “I don’t know, I’m not sure” is something that needs work, which will come and thanks for being patience with my ignorance and naivety.

Can someone just comment, if it is stuck in gear, will I be able to turn the flywheel when taken off the starter? And if it’s stuck in a low gear I imagine I won’t be able to rock the back wheel correct?
So would the best solution be, in this case, to get the oil and battery and try start and be ready to quickly kill the engine if it starts? Or will it even be able to start if it’s stuck in gear. Thanks and I will do my own reading and reply more in depth soon.
Matt.
Jack up one rear wheel and block the others well. If the motor turns over so will the wheel. You could try rocking the wheel to see if the motor turns over.
 
Thanks everyone !
I’m currently on holidays which is why I haven’t replied but I hope you don’t think I’ve abandoned the project! I really appreciate the feedback and help and hope to reply more in depth to each of your feedback

I understand the “I don’t know, I’m not sure” is something that needs work, which will come and thanks for being patience with my ignorance and naivety.

Can someone just comment, if it is stuck in gear, will I be able to turn the flywheel when taken off the starter? And if it’s stuck in a low gear I imagine I won’t be able to rock the back wheel correct?
So would the best solution be, in this case, to get the oil and battery and try start and be ready to quickly kill the engine if it starts? Or will it even be able to start if it’s stuck in gear. Thanks and I will do my own reading and reply more in depth soon.
Matt.
Matt, stuck in gear is not a problem right now, unless you get it to start, and have no way of stopping it. Rocking it back and forth won't hurt it, and may free up the engine, and maybe the tranny. steve
 

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