ford 3000 timing

Finally getting back at it. I located the spot where you can see the timing marks, but I'm not seeing any pointer ;0
If it ever quits raining I'm going over there and try to get it to TDC and see where the distributor is pointed. I'd like to get this thing
running
I chased timing on my 3000 over and over, and though it would start, it would snuff out on any kind of load. It turned out to be a gummed up carbuerator and it was running extremely lean. I got a cheap carb off Amazon, and it solved the problem, though you have to set the float level on those cheapies, or it'll just pour gas all over the ground. Once I got it started, I put a die grinder brush through the timing hole to clean off the flywheel, then set timing. That's when I realized I had a bigger problem than the timing. If you have to use starting fluid to start it, and use the choke to keep it running, then you need to clean out/rebuild/replace that carb.
 
Got some oil in there and cranked for a bit to get everything oiled up. Not starting but I'll mess with the timing when I have more time.
For anyone else facing this, I did manage to find a pointer. Very hard to see but it's an arrow at the top of the picture. Right above the view window.
 

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Got some oil in there and cranked for a bit to get everything oiled up. Not starting but I'll mess with the timing when I have more time.
For anyone else facing this, I did manage to find a pointer. Very hard to see but it's an arrow at the top of the picture. Right above the view window.
My 2000 has the snow plow frame on it. Takes lying down and some contortions to see it with the timing light. It ran OK when Dad got it then got hard to start in cold weather. I got into it and found a stack of washers in the vacuum advance which kept it from moving. I&T gives detailed instructions for setting without a distributor machine. Took a while but I got it to where it works pretty well.
 
We'll she didn't start but with all the info here I'm pretty sure it's in time now. I got it at TDC, got the points checked and got the distributor set right. I realized while I was doing this that I'd put my wires on backward (clockwise vs counterclockwise). It's not backfiring anymore and sounds better. I give it a shot of Starter fluid and she sounded like she was going to start but never quite did. I think my next step is to check to be sure I'm getting fuel. May go ahead and just clean my lines and such since it's been sitting for a while. Hate to think it's the fuel pump. That looks a bit of a pain to change. I'll find out if she's pumping.
 
We'll she didn't start but with all the info here I'm pretty sure it's in time now. I got it at TDC, got the points checked and got the distributor set right. I realized while I was doing this that I'd put my wires on backward (clockwise vs counterclockwise). It's not backfiring anymore and sounds better. I give it a shot of Starter fluid and she sounded like she was going to start but never quite did. I think my next step is to check to be sure I'm getting fuel. May go ahead and just clean my lines and such since it's been sitting for a while. Hate to think it's the fuel pump. That looks a bit of a pain to change. I'll find out if she's pumping.
You can bypass the fuel pump to test. My 2000 has been gravity feed for years.
 
I’m not a fan of altering the factory fuel lines on these tractors, but Ford really made the 65/later gas fuel line routing difficult
For our hilly area and the carburetor being slightly higher than the bottom of the tank, gravity feed doesn’t work to well unless you keep the tank above 1/3 full
My brother had fuel delivery issues with his 3400 to the point he parked the tractor for a few years with intentions to convert it to diesel. Recently he rerouted the fuel system thru a small low pressure inline electric fuel pump just to see what it would do, the tractor has never ran better.
 
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