Ford 4000 Leveling Arm Assembly

[ml_work]

I purchased my tractor to work on our dirt road to my home. It is about 10 homes along the road, maybe 1 mile one way. A neighbor had an old tractor with box blade that I use to work with, the box blade could adjusted to tilt to get a "kinda" crown in the middle of the road. His transmission went out and it was never repaired, later sold. It has been a few years and holes have gotten big and deep. I got a 6' box blade to work with, I noticed the leveling arms on the tractor cannot be adjusted. I checked here at YDT, talked to Dave about what I needed, he told me to measure the existing one on the left. I did the measure and it is 30 1/4 inch. Talking to Dave this morning he said I would need Part C5NN569AM for the right side, as it is 27 1/4 to 32 1/4 length. So I am thinking that would only be 2 inch or if I when the other way 3 inch. Which would not be very much of a pitch .... to me anyway. So I mentioned that to Dave and ask should I get a new one for the left side - Part E0NNB484DA - Rod Leveling that is 27 1/2 to 32 inch. That way I could adjust it down to 27 inch and the right side to 32 inch giving me 5 inch pitch. Dave said that would work too. He said that part will adjust but it has to be disconnect from the tractor to adjust. I remembered seeing threads on the one on the right side, but did not see how it could be adjusted... not thinking about disconnecting from the tractor. It would be too much trouble to remove it each time to adjust. So I said all that to ask this, can I take the existing one on the right side, put it on the left side after adjusting it to the shorter length, it is 30 inch now. Then buy the new Part C5NN569AM with the crank for the right side. If the old one moved to the left side does not work like I hope it will then I could buy the Part E0NNB484DA as talked about.
I really don't remember what length the rods were on the other box blade I used, it has been a few years. So if I am incorrect about how much pitch is needed, Please advise. Also are there problems with putting the left side to 27". I have include a picture of the hitch and close up of the existing right side with threads.

Open For Suggestions... Thanks
Michael

 

[Bikerider]

It looks to me like what you have will adjust on both sides. You will need to remove the pin at the top of each rod and they should both be threaded and allow you to turn them to make them longer or shorter. You may find that you can get enough adjustment from the ones you have. If you want to move the right one to the left side and buy a new right side, that should work also. I have a 3000 and my operators manual covers the 4000 also, it says the left lift rod on the 4000 should be 29.8 inches long but it is adjustable .

 

[RM-MN]

I use a angle blade to do that same thing. Let me say that 2" of adjustment is a lot because that is on the arm, not the ends of the blade. The pins on the blade are probably about 30 inches apart so when you raise or lower that arm 1", the outside edges of your 72" (6 foot) box blade will change by more than double that. A 2" difference in your two arms will equate to about 5" difference at the end of the box blade. You aren't going to fill the potholes and pack them in one pass anyway so each pass you can add 3 to 5" of crown to the road, more than enough by the time the fill you put into the potholes is packed, refilled, packed and refilled again.

 

[Sean in PA]

I was going to say the same thing as RM-MN, that the 2 to 3 inch difference in height between the arms should result in a much larger difference in height between the two ends of the box blade.

I also agree with bikerider that what you have is adjustable, but to me it only looks like the right side is adjustable. It is basically similar to a 1/2 of a turnbuckle so you will have to unpin it at the top and loosen the big lock nut and then the upper threaded shaft will screw into or out of the body below to shorten or lengthen the overall link and don't forget to tighten the lock nut when done adjusting. It looks like you will have to clean all of that paint out of the threads to make it actually adjust though.

EDIT: On second look that may not be a locknut, it might just be welded to the top of the body to provide the threads that the upper shaft threads into and out of.

On another note, I am curious, do you know what those pins are for that are sticking out sideways from where the tops of the trumpets bolt to the center housing?

 

[ml_work]

Thanks for quick replies!
BR, thanks for the info, sounds like everyone agrees that what I have "may" work. I was comparing this to the old tractor and BB that I used. The right side rod was kind of like the center rod on this tractor, it could be adjusted without removing it. So the new rod on the right would really be just for convenience. So I may give this a try as is.
RM-MN and Sean, now that you say it, I understand what you are talking about the pitch being more at the end of the blade.

Sean, your Second thought about the nut being welded in place? It should still work when remove it and adjust the length then attach back to the tractor, it should not be able to move... correct? And for Another Note, I am not sure what you are asking... if you mean on the close up of the right side the pins to the left... I think that second pin is just an extra that they (previous owner) hung there, I will check tonight.

RM-MN, as for the potholes and filling them. We have been doing that and each rain the fill comes out. What I use to do and my plan for this is drag the blade at say 2 mile hour, slow slow and it will start to brake the holes. Once I get them that deep, lower the teeth and keep going, then lower them to the deepest cut, this breaks the holes and seems to work much better. Then I raise the teeth back so it is not as deep and drag some more, it is an all day process but seems to hold longer. And that may have been what you were telling me, sorry if I am repeating what you said.

While I have the picture of the rear end I will ask this also. I have the chains on the outside of the sway bars (is that the name) but do not have any coming from the center of to the bars that will keep them from going too wide. I noticed when I was backing up to connect the box blade the bars were getting hit by the back tires ( I have driven the tractor only one time). Should I get a set of chains to connect from the center, is this a safety issue. If so what size chain or is this an item to purchase?

Thanks
Michael

 

[WNYBill]

What you REALLY need is a hydraulic leveling arm. Simple to build if you can find clevises for the hydraulic cylinder. Wish I had one.

Regardless, keep in mind that you have no "down" pressure, so getting one end of the blade in the ground is tricky if the ground is hard, takes many passes. And, you either dead head or
reverse adjustment to go the other way.

My 8 ft stone rake has gauge wheels, I only use one on the side I don't want to dig in. adjust it so the teeth are above grade. You could do the same with a blade.

Bill

 

[Sean in PA]

I took the liberty of editing your picture so I could point out the pins that I was asking about. The right one is circled in red in this picture, There is an identical one on the opposite side in your larger picture:

 

[RickB]

Let's leave the left hand lift rod stationary. Shortening the RH rod 2" will raise the right end of the box blade more than 4" and lower the left end of the box blade more than 2". Your draft links should be 26" apart if asset at the category 1 standard for width. The 2" and 4" numbers will be low because as you shorten the lift rod each inch, the end of the draft link will raise by more than 1 inch. You will probably have nearly 8" difference end to end with a 2" adjustment to one lift rod.

 

[ml_work]

Sean, I do not know what those are. The tractor is not at my home yet and it was raining pretty hard tonight when I was going to look at it. Not that I will know what it is but I will get a side picture for you to see.

RickB, I think you said the bb will work as I want it to with what I have. But you really lost me with "Your draft links should be 26" apart if asset at the category 1 standard for width" I did a cut and paste of that line into Google so I could reply as if I know what you were speaking of.... the first and only thing to do with that was the first link it had listed and that was to this post. Were you talking about my question about the chains? Could you explain...
Thanks
Michael

 

[RickB]

The lower links (draft links) that connect the implement to the tractor will be 26" apart when connected to an implement built to Category 1 standards.

 

[NoNewParts]

agree that both of yours look adjustable.
but
both involve pulling those top pins to do it, and with the job you described.......after my third time on and off the tractor....I'd say enough of this baloney...
I'd move your right link to the left side....get an adjustable one with the crank handle for the right.
Now I can make on the fly adjustments from the seat.

 

[ml_work]

NoNewParts, I did not realize the arm could be adjusted while sitting in the seat, that is very inviting. After removing the paint from the threads on the right side arm I found they have been hit and have a small place that is stopping the nut. I will try to use a small file and get the threads open so the nut will move across them if needed. I am planning to move the right arm to the left and purchase the new with crank.

Sean, it looks like the pin you ask abort where for some option in the past. I have included a picture of both sides.

Thanks to All for the Help!
Michael