Ford 4600: 2 Problems

[Mnethercutt]

Hello,

I have a Ford 4600 Diesel that I use at work that's giving me some electrical trouble. When I started working the electrical system was all messed up. It had no-start issues that I traced to a shutoff switch behind the battery and bypassed, and the alternator didn't work. We have replaced the alternator and I thought that fixed the problem till the battery died again. I was fiddling around and found the problem: the key switch will only let the battery charge if the switch is in position 2. The owners manual I have says there should only be 3 positions, but my switch has 4. Position 1 is "off", position 2 is where it'll charge, position 3 is "run" I guess but doesn't charge, and position 4 is start. Is this normal for this tractor? If so what's the point of position 3?

Additionally, the joint that the steering arm bolts into is loose and I can't get it to tighten. I've attached 2 pictures below of the joint. Whenever I try and turn the bolt the threads just spin with the bolt. I've tried jamming a pair of pliers in there to try and keep it from spinning to no avail. Any ideas?

And a bonus picture of the tractor in its natural habitat:

 

[Welding man]

Thermostart cold start aid. Drag link worn out, replace it with a new one.

 

[Mnethercutt]

Thank you for the quick reply!

If that's for glow plugs (or whatever cold-starting aid it has), can I assume they're probably shot since the tractor has been run with the key in that position for probably 30+ hrs?

Thanks

 

[OBwan]

It should be a five position switch. 1 OFF, 2 Accessories, 3 Run, 4 is Thermostart and 5 is Start. Position 4 is holding the key past the run and before the starter kicks in. Might need to check the wiring of the switch.

 

[shaun wallace]

The drag link nut is a nylock nut, Get a nut buster or chisel, bust it and put new one on. may have to chase threads.

 

[Bern]

If that nut has been loose for a while, the tapered hole in the steering arm is most likely worn out. I'd
bet money that it's worn and not the ball joint.

If the hole is not too worn yet, about the only way you'll get it tight is by prying the ball joint tight up
against the steering arm while you tighten the nut, either with a big pair of channel locks or else a big
pry bar of some sort wedged up against some solid object. Or, maybe a bottle jack on the horizontal and a
tree trunk. If you can get the nut to tighten up, you might be home free.

 

[Ultradog MN]

Might also work to remove the steering
arm from the steering box then go after
the nut with an impact gun.

 

[Mnethercutt]

(quoted from post at 20:39:02 02/29/20) It should be a five position switch. 1 OFF, 2 Accessories, 3 Run, 4 is Thermostart and 5 is Start. Position 4 is holding the key past the run and before the starter kicks in. Might need to check the wiring of the switch.
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto6966.jpg">

Now that makes sense--I can feel the extra turn you have to do to get the starter to engage past the thermostart. So why is it that the battery only charges in the accessory position?


In terms of that joint, its definitely that the bolt is loose, not that the hole is worn. I can grab it and slide the threads back and fort through the hole, not so much side to side. I'll try the channel locks and pressure suggestion--being a state-owned machine, its a whole ordeal for me to try and buy something for it, and we don't have an air compressor where the tractor is, so an impact isn't gonna happen anytime soon.

 

[sotxbill]

because someone switched the wire to the wrong lug on the back of the ignition switch????

 

[Eman85]

In terms of that joint, its definitely that the bolt is loose, not that the hole is worn. I can grab it and slide the threads back and fort through the hole, not so much side to side. I'll try the channel locks and pressure suggestion--being a state-owned machine, its a whole ordeal for me to try and buy something for it, and we don't have an air compressor where the tractor is, so an impact isn't gonna happen anytime soon.[/quote]

What you are referring to as a bolt is a tapered shaft of the joint. The tapered shaft fits into a tapered hole and is usually press fit by tightening the nut. Your best bet is to either cut the nut off or press the joint firmly into the steering arm and hold pressure on it while you turn the nut. Might be a 2 man operation to get enough pressure on it to get the shaft to not spin.

 

[Mnethercutt]

Update: got the key switch fixed. The alternator wire was in the accessory post and the thermostat was in the run post. Both have been corrected. Tractor actually smokes a but less now so maybe I fixed something else in there?

Can I assume the thermostat is worthless since it's been left constantly on?

Managed to get the bolt on the steering thing off. Gonna get a replacement cause I tore up the original in the process.