Ford 4600-write it off?

[Fordlost]

I have a Ford 4600 SU that belonged to my dad. It seems like it has several problems, and I’m not even remotely mechanical. Trying to get a sense of whether I should junk it or fix it. It sat for nearly 5 years, but was parked running and ready to use for winter with the blade on. That was the last thing my dad did before his final illness, and the tractor has not been started since.

Engine is seized, and when I drained the oil pan, what appeared to be all of the antifreeze came out first. I have been told that suggests either a cracked block or blown head gasket. One of the rear rims will also need replacement if the tractor is ever got running again. Because I haven’t gotten it running yet, no idea if the hydraulic lift works at all.

I’d like to have it running and usable, but the list of problems is a little overwhelming, especially without any mechanical knowledge.

I’d love to hear whether this is a worthwhile project or if I should just let it go.

 

[sotxbill]

Its a tough choice. At minimum, you will need to pull the head and replace a head gasket $600, while looking at everything for cracks. As the most likely source.

OR... could be cracked block, pin holed cyl, cracked head, all which then become a $7000 fix.

Otherwise you have a "parts" tractor to sell to someone for $500 to 800 bucks.

 

[pomester]

I have a Ford 4600 SU that belonged to my dad. It seems like it has several problems, and I’m not even remotely mechanical. Trying to get a sense of whether I should junk it or fix it. It sat for nearly 5 years, but was parked running and ready to use for winter with the blade on. That was the last thing my dad did before his final illness, and the tractor has not been started since.

Engine is seized, and when I drained the oil pan, what appeared to be all of the antifreeze came out first. I have been told that suggests either a cracked block or blown head gasket. One of the rear rims will also need replacement if the tractor is ever got running again. Because I haven’t gotten it running yet, no idea if the hydraulic lift works at all.

I’d like to have it running and usable, but the list of problems is a little overwhelming, especially without any mechanical knowledge.

I’d love to hear whether this is a worthwhile project or if I should just let it go.

This is a desirable model of tractor. If you have a need for a tractor, it's worth investigating. If you decide not to pursue it, an ad on craigslist or marketplace will move it on readily to someone who will, a better option than 'junking' or scrapping it.

I agree that the antifreeze in the oil suggests a head gasket or cavitation hole in the block. Head gaskets are not particularly difficult to replace, but will require some muscle and tools that you don't have. Sleaving a block is a bigger project. See if there's a tractor club in your area who can put you in touch with a mechanic.

 

[Fordlost]

Is there any good way of diagnosing head gasket vs block as the source for the antifreeze leak, short of repairing the head gasket and if that doesn’t fix it you know the problem is the block?

 

[Powered By IH]

Is there any good way of diagnosing head gasket vs block as the source for the antifreeze leak, short of repairing the head gasket and if that doesn’t fix it you know the problem is the block?

Yes. Get yourself a coolant pressure test kit. It pressure tests the cooling system so you can find the leaks.

 

[sotxbill]

Yes. Get yourself a coolant pressure test kit. It pressure tests the cooling system so you can find the leaks.

I'm going to say NO... as you can put pressure on the cooling system and see that it leaks down, but you can NOT tell where the leak IS in 99.99999999999999% of the cases. If it should have an external crack, then yes, you can see or hear the leak. I wonder if he did not have antifreeze in the engine and it froze and crack the block somewhere???

 

[Fordlost]

If the block is cracked is there any fixing it, or does that put me into replacement only territory?

 

[Eman85]

You drained the oil and all of the antifreeze came out with it???
Is the engine still seized? it might be hydrolocked if the antifreeze is in the cylinder. Was it antifreeze? Shouldn't have frozen if it was. If it truly drained the coolant system into the oil pan I'd bet against a head gasket as the head sits high and usually an engine that isn't running wouldn't leak much into the cylinder through the head gasket.
"and I’m not even remotely mechanical" Do you want to become mechanical? If not it's time to say goodbye or open your wallet to the wide setting if you're sentimental about the tractor.

 

[Fordlost]

You drained the oil and all of the antifreeze came out with it???
Is the engine still seized? it might be hydrolocked if the antifreeze is in the cylinder. Was it antifreeze? Shouldn't have frozen if it was. If it truly drained the coolant system into the oil pan I'd bet against a head gasket as the head sits high and usually an engine that isn't running wouldn't leak much into the cylinder through the head gasket.
"and I’m not even remotely mechanical" Do you want to become mechanical? If not it's time to say goodbye or open your wallet to the wide setting if you're sentimental about the tractor.

I drained the oil and there was a good stream of antifreeze that came out the oil pan before the oil did. Radiator has no coolant innit anymore, makes me think it was the full radiator contents in the oil pan

 

[Fordlost]

I actually had the presence of mind to grab a picture of what came out

 

[Destroked 450]

My first question is was the exhaust pipe covered, if setting out for 5 year with the exhaust pipe uncovered you could have a cylinder full of water, that will mess up a engine quick
Two ways to know what you have, pull the injectors and use a bore scope to look in the cylinders, the other is pull the head
With antifreeze coming out I don’t think it froze and cracked the block, but if water got in a cylinder it could freeze and cracked the block that cylinder
Where are you located in case you decide not to fix it

 

[Fordlost]

My first question is was the exhaust pipe covered, if setting out for 5 year with the exhaust pipe uncovered you could have a cylinder full of water, that will mess up a engine quick
Two ways to know what you have, pull the injectors and use a bore scope to look in the cylinders, the other is pull the head
With antifreeze coming out I don’t think it froze and cracked the block, but if water got in a cylinder it could freeze and cracked the block that cylinder
Where are you located in case you decide not to fix it

It was sitting out. Flapper on top of the exhaust was not fully closed. Dad parked it ready to scrape snow, went to the hospital the next day, and went from hospital to physical rehab facility to skilled nursing to passing all within about 7 months.
I started trying to get it started and running a few years ago, but just made a concerted effort in the last six months when a neighbor that has worked on some Fords of his own offered to go with me and have a look at it.

I’m in Central KY.

I’m not in a position to buy a new block, but short of that if I could get it up and running and usable in the ballpark of a couple of grand, I’d probably do it. I’ve learned more about working on them in the last week than I ever knew, and I’m not afraid to learn-especially where there’s not much alternative.

 

[Ultradog MN]

How are the tires and sheet metal, etc.
My 90 yo pal Kenny is bugging me to find him a tractor to fix up. He has a fresh 201 diesel he could drop into it.
If we could agree on a price I would be willing to drive down to KY and get it for him.

 

[Destroked 450]

I’m in west central Ky myself near Fort Knox, if your not to far away I’d come look and bring my bore scope if your not to don’t have one

 

[docmirror]

I've gone the repair seized engine twice now. While it's worth it in the long run if done 'in frame', the cost and time are significant. If the rest of the chassis is in good shape, and it doesn't NEED a clutch job, I'd take it to some small tractor place and let them do the in frame rebuild. Or, have the engine redone all the way. If the rest of the tractor is real rough, just sell it and let someone else try.

 

[Destroked 450]

Since 65/later Ford tractor engines are parent bore blocks, anything other than a simple hone and rering will require pulling the engine off for a full tear down to bore and sleeve the block

 

[Vito]

I've gone the repair seized engine twice now. While it's worth it in the long run if done 'in frame', the cost and time are significant. If the rest of the chassis is in good shape, and it doesn't NEED a clutch job, I'd take it to some small tractor place and let them do the in frame rebuild. Or, have the engine redone all the way. If the rest of the tractor is real rough, just sell it and let someone else try.

Any wouldn't you change the clutch when it is all apart? Throw out bearing minimum.

Vito

 

[Destroked 450]

Can you post a couple photos of the tractor, it’s overall condition (tires, wheels, sheet metal, fenders, ect) can determine what the total cost would be to get the tractor back into usable condition. With coolant in the oil pan and the engine locked up your most likely looking at boring and sleeping the block, last one I had that done to was $200 per cylinder. Machine work, parts, labor can easily put engine repair cost in the $3/4000 range, bad rear tires or rims or overall rough condition can surpass the tractors basic value. As for sentimental value there’s no measurement for that, just understand personal sentimental value has no marketable value

 

[Fordlost]

Can you post a couple photos of the tractor, it’s overall condition (tires, wheels, sheet metal, fenders, ect) can determine what the total cost would be to get the tractor back into usable condition. With coolant in the oil pan and the engine locked up your most likely looking at boring and sleeping the block, last one I had that done to was $200 per cylinder. Machine work, parts, labor can easily put engine repair cost in the $3/4000 range, bad rear tires or rims or overall rough condition can surpass the tractors basic value. As for sentimental value there’s no measurement for that, just understand personal sentimental value has no marketable value

For my purposes having it usable means getting a rear rim on the left side and getting the engine running. I’m not overly worried about sheet metal, grill, fenders and other what I’d call cosmetic concerns. Even if three point doesn’t work, I don’t mind that, as this tractor’s main function will be to run a drag along bush hog on the places I’ve always been too scared to mow without a roll bar.

As far as sentimental value, it will either get running or get pulled behind my barn to stay. Even if it never works for me it at least earned a parking place working for my dad, so there’s no such thing as marketable value for me anyway. Who knows, if I hit the lottery someday I’ll still have it to fix up.