Ford 5000 fuel injection pump issues

DrewInMA

New User
Hi all - I parked our Ford 5000 (c. late 70s) last week after getting the last of our hay in, and when I went to start it today, it was acting like it wasn't getting fuel. It would close to firing, but not quite. I was near a hill and was able to try to roll start it for at least 150 yards with no luck. I also bled it with no luck. I started working through the fuel system, and everything seemed to be OK. Finally, I found that the fourth injector at the top of the injection pump is not working (pictured). I opened the cam box, and it was definitely low on oil, and likely was for some time. It looked like that part of the pump was moving as it should, but it was hard to tell without a better light. Is there any chance it is clogged and could be flushed with air (and then re-bled)? It looks like the top of that injector part twists off, but I could not get it to budge. I've also seen some posts about the excess fuel button, but I can't tell what it is/isn't doing. Could I be missing something? Any advice would be much appreciated!
mvphoto110193.jpg
 
Lack of oil service is what causes most Ford/Simms injection pump trouble. The line delivery valve block holders use a special fine splined socket for removal. Set the
hand throttle at 1/2 half open, then push/pull the fuel stop cable and see if the pump control rack is moving back and forth as it should. If it doesn't move, one or
more pump plungers are stuck. If it DOES move, push the stop in and then push the cold retard start button in the stop shaft center, rack SHOULD move again when button
goes in. Button SHOULD pop back out when the stop cable is pulled back out. The last Ford 8000 pump I had in for repair had three plunger springs broken, along with some
worn governor parts.
 
I found that the fourth injector at the top of the injection pump is not working

Those are not injectors. They are ports that the lines going to the injectors connect to. The injectors are at the other end of the lines, up in the head.
 
Thanks so much, everyone. I suspect the plunger springs are shot, at the least. I have a few things to try this morning. Will report back.
 
Not to hijack this thread, but this got me thinking about checking the oil in my injector pump. Does anyone know the procedure to do this? What kind of oil does it take? Thanks!
 
The fill plug is on the top front, level plug is on the side, and the drain plug is just below the level plug at the rear of rounded case area. Be careful of stripping
the level and drain plug threads, as they are 5/16 X 24 fine and strip easily. DO NOT replace them with longer bolts or the housing WILL be damaged when the governor
weight cage contacts the bolt end inside. I've had to have housings welded/repaired when that happens. Use the same oil in pump as is used in engine.
 
I took the side plate off again and the brackets (or whatever they are called) out. Everything inside was moving, but not quite as it should have been. There was a bit of corrosion and grit inside, so I blasted some Gibbs and cleaned it out the best I could. The loader frame made it impossible to get back to the springs, so they will be a winter project. After a good cleaning, I put it back together, threw in a new seal, added oil, did a few manual pumps, and she fired right up.

I do have one follow-up question. What does the cap next to the hose in the photo below go to? It looks like it leads to the front part of the injection pump, but I haven't been able to find anything concrete online as to exactly what goes in there or how much.
mvphoto110234.jpg
 
All of this looks like my Ford 1977 7700 tractor.

None of it looks like my Ford 5200, which is supposed to be a 1974 or 1975.

Did Ford go to this engine and pump on the 5000 at some point?

Paul
 

That tractor has had an engine swap or at minimum a front timing cover change
Oil fill in the timing cover wasn t available until late 75 when the -600 series was introduced
 
The fill plug is on the top front, level plug is on the side, and the drain plug is just below the level plug at the rear of rounded case area. Be careful of stripping
the level and drain plug threads, as they are 5/16 X 24 fine and strip easily. DO NOT replace them with longer bolts or the housing WILL be damaged when the governor
weight cage contacts the bolt end inside. I've had to have housings welded/repaired when that happens. Use the same oil in pump as is used in engine.
My 5000 is a 1965. I check the injection pump oil level regularly (6- 8 week, light use) and always have to add 6-8 oz of oil. Is this normal.
 
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