Ford 5000 replace broken pto output shaft.

[Mighty Stroker]

Ik there is a forum on here from 07 of a guy who had his brother do it the correct way of pulling the right side rear axle and replacing the PTO output shaft. I however don't currently have the means or experience To do this task without spending some money to move these heavy parts. However on the forum 2 people bring up the fact that it can be done through the hole above the PTO shaft.
MY question is in that second hole there is a bearing and the PTO power shaft. Can this power shaft just be pulled out with no complications???

 

[Harry in Ky]

Yes, the PTO shaft in question will indeed come out the back. If you have a single speed 540 PTO you can PROBABLY get the shaft out and back in by working through that hole. I replaced a broken single speed shaft on a 7710 a couple years ago by working through the hole. You can pull the shaft out, reach in and see if you can feel the end of the shaft, the nut and cotter pin. If so, you can most likely find a way to make it all work.

 

[Mighty Stroker]

Yes, the PTO shaft in question will indeed come out the back. If you have a single speed 540 PTO you can PROBABLY get the shaft out and back in by working through that hole. I replaced a broken single speed shaft on a 7710 a couple years ago by working through the hole. You can pull the shaft out, reach in and see if you can feel the end of the shaft, the nut and cotter pin. If so, you can most likely find a way to make it all work.

So just take off the cap, pull the bearing, gear, and shaft right out? And then proceed with the actual job of of blindly undoing the pin and castle nut.

 

[Harry in Ky]

Yes, start by pulling the cap and shaft out. Then reach in and see (actually feel) for the nut and cotter pin on the shaft. It's not exactly visible. You need to reach around part of the casting to get to it. Then you can decide if you want to pursue going that route vs pulling the axle housing. It's no picnic but it can be done. Once the bottom cover is off you can wedge the gear and fight with the nut on and off.

Center Housing & Related Parts - 5000, 7000 | New Holland Agriculture | MyCNH US Store

Find schematics, manuals, specifications and diagrams for CENTER HOUSING & RELATED PARTS - 5000, 7000. Find genuine OEM parts for your needs.

www.mycnhstore.com

 

[Mighty Stroker]

Yes, start by pulling the cap and shaft out. Then reach in and see (actually feel) for the nut and cotter pin on the shaft. It's not exactly visible. You need to reach around part of the casting to get to it. Then you can decide if you want to pursue going that route vs pulling the axle housing. It's no picnic but it can be done. Once the bottom cover is off you can wedge the gear and fight with the nut on and off.

Center Housing & Related Parts - 5000, 7000 | New Holland Agriculture | MyCNH US Store

Find schematics, manuals, specifications and diagrams for CENTER HOUSING & RELATED PARTS - 5000, 7000. Find genuine OEM parts for your needs.

www.mycnhstore.com

Thank you tremendously for your input. I appreciate it greatly. I would assume if I drop said pin and or nut in the housing, that will result in me pulling the axle anyway correct?
I'm not against pulling the axle. I'm sure I could do it. The problem is I don't have the equipment. What would be the best route to pull the axle? Overhead crane? I saw a video where a guy used a pallet jack and railroad ties. And I'll need heavy duty. Jack stands and a jack that lift it up. And then there's the tire. Seems like a lot of money for equipment I'll barely use.

 

[Harry in Ky]

I've pulled many a tire (yes, even fluid filled with someone to help) simply by proper jacking and rocking the tire back and forth walking it out far enough to roll it away and leaning it against something solid enough to keep it upright. The axle housing can be handled with a cherry picker. Have done that many many times. If you anticipate that happening, then by all means preposition the tractor with that in mind while it's still mobile.

The cotter pin, nut, and washer aren't so heavy they can't be fished out with a magnet if needed. I was lucky enough I didn't need to go that route.

 

[Old Ford Mechanic]

I have changed out more than one of those snapped output shafts over the years. Easily changed from the rear if you are careful in your work. I have a wrench that i slightly bent to reach the castellated nut on the shaft. Also before pulling the cotter pin completely out run a piece of wire through the top of the pin. This will prevent dropping it inside the housing. If the shaft snapped inside the rear bearing you may need to tack weld a nut to it so, it can be turned while the inside nut is held to loosen. Take your time and it can be done.

 

[Mighty Stroker]

I have changed out more than one of those snapped output shafts over the years. Easily changed from the rear if you are careful in your work. I have a wrench that i slightly bent to reach the castellated nut on the shaft. Also before pulling the cotter pin completely out run a piece of wire through the top of the pin. This will prevent dropping it inside the housing. If the shaft snapped inside the rear bearing you may need to tack weld a nut to it so, it can be turned while the inside nut is held to loosen. Take your time and it can be done.

Thank you for the information! I thought ur name looked familiar! You where one of the people from the 2007 post I was talking about that posted about removing it from the rear. U did a step by step but u never really clarified on removing the bearing and the PTO shaft out of the hole first. With this being my first tractor and nothing going as planned I was worried I would go and pull this shaft out and something with drop or disengage on the other side that I would end up pulling the top end off to to get it back in and as I said I don't have the equipment to do said job.

 

[Old Ford Mechanic]

Have never had anything unusual happen on this repair. As i said take your time and things will work out.

 

[Mighty Stroker]

Have never had anything unusual happen on this repair. As i said take your time and things will work out.

The parts came in and the repair is done! Thank you both for the advice. I do have one more question that's on my mind and I think I just need peace of mind. The cotter pin on the back of the output shaft l. I got the pin though the castle nut and was able to twist it some what around the nut but there is some play in the pin maybe a quarter inch? Maybe more or less? Hard to tell by feel. My question being is this a problem? Should I get back in there and try to tighten the pin up more?

 

[used red MN]

The parts came in and the repair is done! Thank you both for the advice. I do have one more question that's on my mind and I think I just need peace of mind. The cotter pin on the back of the output shaft l. I got the pin though the castle nut and was able to twist it some what around the nut but there is some play in the pin maybe a quarter inch? Maybe more or less? Hard to tell by feel. My question being is this a problem? Should I get back in there and try to tighten the pin up more?

As long at the end of the cotter pin is bent to where it won’t slide out that is all that is needed. If it is on some type of spinning shaft the centrifugal force will hold pressure on it and there will be no wear.