Ford 555 ready for engine break in

[JimFord555]

-Sleeved and rebuilt 201 CID diesel
-rebuilt torque converter with new torque plate
-Rebuilt then professionally calibrated Injector pump and injectors with new tips
-Re cored radiator
-tank cleaned and lined
-re wired almost everything
-proper oil pressure gauge installed
-all new fluids including anti cavitation stuff in the rad

Got the engine back in and flashed up much easier then anticipated with no leaks. (Only ran it for a few minutes)

Time to break it in!

A tugboat Diesel engine rebuilder told me:
half throttle for 30 min
Three quarter for 30 min
Full throttle for an hour

Read here on YT:
-Let idle for 2-3 hours at 1800rpm
-Work it hard
-Pull a Plow or something at a constant 1800rpm (I dont have anything to pull)

Is it constant or verying engine RPM ?

My latest video in this rebuild preocess is here:

https://youtu.be/3lBvey_LoUE

 

[M-MAN]

I'm more inclined to keeping the rpm's
in the low to mid range until she gets
to normal temperature with no noises or
concerns. Then run it like you stole it
slowing down once in a while for the
turns.

 

[JimFord555]

Thanks M-MAN

I understand not hammering on it until Im confident it all sounds good and wont explode then working it hard to get some heat in the engine.

What is the approx half throttle / full throttle RPM ?

What is good oil pressure ? I have a proper gauge now that reads PSI

 

[Bern]

Looks like your installation went fairly smoothly. Looks good in there, although I'm surprised you didn't paint the engine first before you put it back in, considering all the work you put into it. Regardless, you have every reason to be proud of your work - it sounds good. Not bad for a first-timer.

2 comments related to your video: 1) The threaded port in the intake tube is for the air cleaner restriction switch, it is not for a temp sensor. 2) Pouring the entire bottle of coolant conditioner into the radiator was not a good idea. If a little is good, more is not necessarily better. Worse yet, the antifreeze you put into it already had that chemical in it, so now it's really over-treated. It could actually gel or plug up possibly. I would consider draining, flushing, and starting over if it was mine.

As to breaking it in, the key is varying speeds and loads. Don't let it idle for long periods of time, and don't be afraid to work it hard after you get it warmed up and you're sure you have no leaks.

 

[JimFord555]

Thanks Bern ! You have been a huge help through this process and that means a lot coming from you.

I did prime and paint the engine with duplicolor high heat engine enamel

1) The threaded port in the intake tube is for the air cleaner restriction switch,

DO I need this ? Not sure what it does

2) Pouring the entire bottle of coolant conditioner into the radiator was not a good idea. If a little is good, more is not necessarily better. Worse yet, the antifreeze you put into it already had that chemical in it, so now it's really over-treated. It could actually gel or plug up possibly. I would consider draining, flushing, and starting over if it was mine.

I didnt just pour in a bottle The label on the addative gave me a ratio for product to coolant
Following that it was exactly 1 bottle
I bought the coolant and additive from Lordco (major parts supplier in my area) at the same time from a guy who apparently rebuilds racecar engines but I didnt realize the addative was already in the coolant. I will investigate and flush if necesssary


As to breaking it in, the key is varying speeds and loads. Don't let it idle for long periods of time, and don't be afraid to work it hard after you get it warmed up and you're sure you have no leaks.

Perfect ! Thats what i did today. warmed it up driving around on the flat and fixed a leak where one of the trans cooler lines joined the rad. Then later another one where the steering line enters the hydraulic ram and after 2 hours or run time and working the machine fairly hard lifting 4 boulders and digging the O ring where the line leaving the hydraulic pump blew ! Spraying fluid everywhere. Turned out one of the bolts was too long and not doing its job securing the hose fitting. All fixed now and well broken in from what I can tell.

My break peddals are out of alighnment so i need to adjust them . Any advice ?

 

[JimFord555]

While i have your attention! While lifting a big boulder slung from the hoe some fluid spirited out of the hoe arm where it bends (knuckle ?) then after had no problem digging. Couldnt see where the fluid came from. But i obviously over stressed the fitting lifting such a big rock. Any advice ?

 

[Bern]

It appeared from your video that the engine was simply primered. I didn't realize that silver (or gray) was the color you
wanted it to end up as.

The air cleaner switch alerts you when the air cleaner is plugged, via a warning light on the dash. If you choose not to
make use of this feature, make sure that hole is plugged with a 1/8 NPT pipe plug or else you'll be sucking dirt through it
and dusting your engine. That would not be good.

With regards to the antifreeze, if you look closely on the jug it should list the same chemical in it that was contained in
the small bottle. So, it really has been overtreated, much like if you used too much chlorine in a swimming pool.

Brake pedal linkage and adjustment is all mechanical. This will be done with a threaded rod and clevis arrangement near the
axle trumpet housing. Look for #24 in the link below.
Brake adjustment

 

[Bern]

My guess is that you either have a loose fitting or else a very small hole in a hose somewhere. Nothing you could ever do with
that machine should cause it to leak. Circuit relief valves are supposed to ensure that.

Suggest you have someone else operate the controls with a heavy load while you look closer for the source of the leak. BUT,
don't get too close, as being injected with hydraulic oil could ultimately result in body part amputation if you don't get it
treated quickly.

 

[Check Break]

(quoted from post at 09:18:26 07/10/21)
With regards to the antifreeze, if you look closely on the jug it should list the same chemical in it that was contained in
the small bottle. So, it really has been overtreated, much like if you used too much chlorine in a swimming pool.

You might want to take a look at the chemical properties of the Prestone coolant you used and make sure it's compatible with your DCA4 additive. The Prestone jug in your video looks to me like it has a CAT EC1 rating. If you look up Fleetguard Cooling System Products https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/sites/default/files/LT15108NA.pdf , their ES Compleat NOAT is compatible with CAT EC1. ES Compleat NOAT makes no mention of DCA4 compatibility. When you look at ES Compleat coolant, Fleetguard says it is compatible with DCA4 additive. The difference between the two, I believe, is nitrates. If your Prestone is not compatible with nitrates and you charged it with nitrates, you may have a problem.

For now, this is a mental exercise as you should follow Bern's advice and drain your coolant and start over. I've given up on blending coolants. The chemistry changes and the risk of damaging an engine isn't worth the convenience of buying a jug of coolant at Walmart or the local truck stop. If you have a CAT dealer nearby, refill her with ELC and call it good for the next 20 years. You won't run her enough hours to change the chemistry in the ELC.

I like your fuel filter but that oil filter isn't up to the quality of your other work. Hope you change it after an hour or so. Do you have an extended stick. I'm having trouble visioning your hydraulic problem. Might be a good time to change a couple of hoses instead of pressing your luck. That stick should blow the relief around 3000lbs. If your rock weighed more than 3K, I'd be wondering if your relief stuck and the hose was over pressurized.

You might also think about replacing that tie rod sleeve. You'll get quite a shock of it lets go in the wrong spot. I figured it wouldn't be much but I was wrong. Doesn't even show on the Ford parts page. Must be part of the tie rod now. I made one for my "A" model but that's because I used the RH rod end I had rather than buy a LH end.

I'm enjoying your videos. You have a talent. Not often do I see someone do what you did for the first time. Keep em coming.

 

[JimFord555]

Thanks again guys. And i mean that!

Very happy to hear you like my vids Check break. Im a dual ticketed electrician / power lineman by day so diesel mechanic skills are being learned one task at a time and Im loving it. I have a great feeling of accomplishment now that my old 555 is back up and running and I love helping people in any way I can so if just one person goes through this process and uses one of my videos for some info its all worth it.

As for the coolant I am not up on my chemicals. I didnt know what cavitation corrosion was before I had a cylinder hole form it and I didnt even think to read more about it other then buying an additive that issupposed to prevent it. I have no idea what any of those ratings are but i will flush and re fill the rad/system after i have figured it out (new post, Im on vacation)

Why is the fuel filter good but not the oil filter ? Same brand
What do you recommend for oil filter ?
Ill change the oil soon now that the engine is broken in and all the assembly lube is in with the oil.

The air cleaner switch hole is plugged and the thing screwed into the port when i bought the machine wasnt connected. Any advice on replacing it ? Single wire that verys resistance telling the dash light to come on at some point ? Can i just make sure the outer filter is kept clean ?

I do not have an extended stick if that is an extendable hoe. And Im not sure what the 3-4 boulder weighed but it was damn big. Ill check the fittings under pressure form a safe distance when Im back home

Check break, is the tie rod sleeve the sleeve i cut and welded on the bar connecting the wheels so they stay in alignment ? I welded another piece of angle iron on the other side to add rigidity and feel like it will be good.

 

[Bern]

Your oil filter appears to be a Fram, which is considered to be about the cheapest quality you can buy. While there are many
good aftermarket filters out there, Fleetguard is generally considered to be among the top tier.

The air cleaner switch is #20 in the link below. The switch does not vary the resistance, it is merely open/closed to turn the
light off/on. It's not mandatory that you run one - mankind operated machinery just fine without them in days gone by. It
simply tells you when it's time to service the filter.
Air cleaner switch

 

[Check Break]

(quoted from post at 23:20:41 07/11/21) Thanks again guys. And i mean that!

Very happy to hear you like my vids Check break. Im a dual ticketed electrician / power lineman by day so diesel mechanic skills are being learned one task at a time and Im loving it. I have a great feeling of accomplishment now that my old 555 is back up and running and I love helping people in any way I can so if just one person goes through this process and uses one of my videos for some info its all worth it.

As for the coolant I am not up on my chemicals. I didnt know what cavitation corrosion was before I had a cylinder hole form it and I didnt even think to read more about it other then buying an additive that issupposed to prevent it. I have no idea what any of those ratings are but i will flush and re fill the rad/system after i have figured it out (new post, Im on vacation)

Why is the fuel filter good but not the oil filter ? Same brand
What do you recommend for oil filter ?
Ill change the oil soon now that the engine is broken in and all the assembly lube is in with the oil.

The air cleaner switch hole is plugged and the thing screwed into the port when i bought the machine wasnt connected. Any advice on replacing it ? Single wire that verys resistance telling the dash light to come on at some point ? Can i just make sure the outer filter is kept clean ?

I do not have an extended stick if that is an extendable hoe. And Im not sure what the 3-4 boulder weighed but it was damn big. Ill check the fittings under pressure form a safe distance when Im back home

Check break, is the tie rod sleeve the sleeve i cut and welded on the bar connecting the wheels so they stay in alignment ? I welded another piece of angle iron on the other side to add rigidity and feel like it will be good.

Yes, the sleeve determines alignment. Off the top of my head, I believe it's 1/8" toe in. The oil filter looked like a Fram with that black bottom. If it's a Baldwin, it's one of the best. Your outer air filter will go for hundreds of hours running in the conditions you work in. You don't need the switch. If you get into heavy dust, clean it once a day. Probably best to vacuum it from the outside or use low pressure air from the inside. Unfortunately this is rarely an option so we use shop air and keep an eye on the inner element. We toss the outer after we clean it 3x or when the inner starts to pick up dirt, but that's an extreme measure for extreme conditions. The 555 was one of the best in its day and still is. It will serve you well. If you only have one piece of equipment around the house, it's as good as it gets.