FORD 555A BACKHOE QUESTIONS

[rockwind1]

i was curious about the transmission fluid on this tractor, ( my dad just gave me his old ford 555a). is the tranny fluid and hydraulic oil the same? i think the hydraulic oil fill is on the top front in front of the radiator cap? could be wrong, i wish i could find a decent youtube video on this specific model.

anyone have any do and don'ts for this tractor,,, let's pretend i have limited amount of experience with tractors,,,,, well, i actually don't need to pretend.

 

[Tom in Mo.]

The first thing to do is find your dad's operators manual for the machine. If he doesn't have it, buy one. It is filled with everything you need to know to get started.

 

[TomD62]

I recently parted ways with a 1986 555B 4X4 that I had for 17 years. All of the fluid is the same; 134 or equivalent. The transmission filler / dip stick is inside the cab under the mat by the brake pedals. There is a spin on filter located under the machine behind the battery box.

 

[rockwind1]

i actually looked thru them trying to find info on the tranny shift pattern and couldn't find even that. they are not super helpful for the basic info i am looking for,, i think the manual optimistically assume some previous tractor knowledge. i'm a good regular mechanic for the cars and trucks i grew up with but i don't know the ins and outs of a tractor.

 

[Jim.ME]

(quoted from post at 13:12:22 12/03/21) i actually looked thru them trying to find info on the tranny shift pattern and couldn't find even that. they are not super helpful for the basic info i am looking for,, i think the manual optimistically assume some previous tractor knowledge. i'm a good regular mechanic for the cars and trucks i grew up with but i don't know the ins and outs of a tractor.

It's not a case of them being optimistic in their writings. Unfortunately, you will find service and technical manuals for tractors and equipment were written for the dealer mechanics with experience, not the DIY market. However, I would think the Ford Operator's Manual for a 555A would have the shifting info in it.

You should be able to post pictures. If you post pictures of the covers of your manuals, someone might be able to tell you if there is a better one you should get for your machine.

 

[Dan S (NY)]

This site does sell the operators manual if you can't find one.
Ford 555A Operators Manual

 

[rockwind1]

(quoted from post at 10:38:14 12/03/21)

the manuals are at my dad's in utah,, i will take some pics when i go back up there. i really only need a few more bits of info i think, i've already driven it around and dug a hole. i just wanted some more info on fluids and stuff.

 

[Check Break]

The transmission fluid and hydraulic oil are both 134D fluid. However, they are located in separate reservoirs. Not sure which you were asking about. Use oil in the transmission that "meets or exceeds" M2C134D specs. Oil that "is recommended for" is ok to use in the hydraulics, but not the transmission. The transmission oil lubes the shuttle and crash box. The center housing (rear differential and brakes) are another separate reservoir. I am one of the guys who'd tell you to use the meets or exceeds oil in the center housing, but others will disagree. There's a hydraulic filter in the hyd tank in front of the radiator and one on the right side of the loader frame opposite to your battery box. Valvoline makes a good 134D labeled VV813. At $100/5gal it's 3x the price of Travelers (TSC) Supreme, but it has the right additive package. Travelers will work well in the hydraulic tank. If you haven't tested your coolant, it would be a good idea to do so or replace with an appropriate Nitrate charged coolant. Might save your engine from cavitation erosion.

 

[Check Break]

i wish i could find a decent youtube video on this specific model. Any do and don'ts for this tractor

Post your questions when you can. I usually look at YT once a day in the evenings so you won't get any speedy answers. YouTube has videos but I can't think of one that relates to operation. You're on the right track. Change all the fluids and fix what you can. Then go after the stuff you need help with. I should have told you to grease the pump drive in my earlier post. It gets neglected and has a habit of taking out the radiator when a u-joint lets go. Better to scope it out and repair if necessary before it throws a fit.

 

[TomD62]

I was using the New Holland official 134D for years, but the dealer started selling an alternate brand which was 134D rated for about 60% of the cost. The guy at the parts counter recommended the NH 134D if your machine was still under warranty and the alternate 134D if it wasn't.

I am skeptical of the Wal Mart and Tractor Supply universal fluid for $30 for 5 gallons. I have a tendency to be a little overkill anyways.

 

[Check Break]

The guy at the parts counter recommended the NH 134D if your machine was still under warranty and the alternate 134D if it wasn't.

That's one way to increase parts sales when you're paying the bill. Oil is cheap and the best oil is free. We bought a used crushing plant in 2003. The previous owner rebuilt gear boxes every winter until they switched to Schaeffer. When we got it they were only sampling and changing. We're still doing that and haven't had a failure since we bought it. When we were looking for an alternative ATF for our Allisons later that year, we took a chance on Schaeffer. I can only think of 4 or 5 failures since we switched to Allison in 2000, and one was under warranty 30 days after being placed in service. Another one occurred because an idiot didn't service the transmission for over four years. Batteries are another example. We bought hundreds of bargain batteries for $73-79. Changed them every year, usually at 6am. Lost one ECM when a genius used his light duty jumper cables to wake up a 3406. I gambled on Deka at $95 and won. Now they pay me. The Deka lasts 3 years and longer. No labor to change out three batteries in that three year time frame. No 6am failures and down trucks. No burned up ECMs. When you do the math, the Deka is free and making me money in years 2 and 3. Same with Schaeffer oil. At $8/Qt and $6-7K every couple weeks, most people scoff but I look at the cost of the failures we've avoided and continue to avoid every day and thank our Schaeffer rep for free oil.

 

[TomD62]

I get what your saying. I never skimp on batteries or tires either. When I had my 555B I would get 7 years out of the batteries I purchased from the NH dealer. Like clockwork. When I was in the Army I once purchased bargain tires as money was tight and I was young and inexperienced. I ended up needing tires again in 10 months and bought the most expensive set the store had. They were still on the vehicle when I sold it.

You get what you pay for. To a point.

 

[Tom in Mo.]

This could be another thread, but I agree 100% with spending the money for quality. You get what you paid for. I agree with the Deka batteries too. They are the best.
Cheap=cheap product.

 

[rockwind1]

Better to scope it out and repair if necessary before it throws a fit.[/quote]

thanks for the tips Check! what are you using for engine oil? is it also 134D?

 

[rockwind1]

thanks tom! was looking into a new battery after the current one goes.

 

[Check Break]

thanks for the tips Check! what are you using for engine oil? is it also 134D?

Engine oil is 15w-40. Diesel grade. A synthetic will start removing accumulated carbon and will need to be changed as often as conventional for a while.

 

[rockwind1]

(quoted from post at 00:09:11 12/05/21)

thanks for the tips Check! what are you using for engine oil? is it also 134D?

Engine oil is 15w-40. Diesel grade. A synthetic will start removing accumulated carbon and will need to be changed as often as conventional for a while.

thanks, that's what i used. is it normal for almost every seal on the tractor to look like it is leaking? i mean, it's not spurting out or dribbling out,, just has oily residue around it and down the cyclinders

 

[Check Break]

Is it normal for almost every seal on the tractor to look like it is leaking? i mean, it's not spurting out or dribbling out,, just has oily residue around it and down the cyclinders

The 555A is one of the finest and most rugged backhoes ever built but it is old and you'll find yourself resealing the cylinders (some day) and replacing the hydraulic hoses. If it's seeping, wash it off and work on something else. If it's dripping or worse, time for a reseal. After 35 years, much will need attention but you can get a lot of use out of it while doing so. I've got 800 hours on mine since I replaced the engine and rebuilt the shuttle and still haven't fixed everything that isn't perfect. Most frustrating are the seeping cylinders but they're still only seeping and I've been using them like that for 25 years. A hose will leave you stranded so if you have hoses with rusty braid showing, replace them as soon as you can. I put new hoses on mine 25 years ago. They're shot, but there's a few OEM hoses that are older that still look good. As I replace now I use plastic hose guard and/or nylon cover over the hose. If you use nylon cover, cut it extra long and scrunch it up on the hose so it pushes out towards the fittings. The first ones I did I cut the same length as the hose and the hose shifted and sustained UV damage. Live and learn. You might think about changing the P/S fluid and filter while you're on a campaign. P/S uses 134D. Check your front axle pivot pin and spindles for wear. Grease them now if there's still something left to grease. Same goes for the backhoe swing cylinders. There's a top and bottom zerk on each swing cylinder. All the rest of the zerks (pins and bushings) should be visible. Are your stabilizer rods damaged, pivot pins worn or cylinders leaking??

 

[rockwind1]

There's a top and bottom zerk on each swing cylinder. All the rest of the zerks (pins and bushings) should be visible. Are your stabilizer rods damaged, pivot pins worn or cylinders leaking??[/quote]

thanks for the tips on secret zerks! stabilizer rods, i don't know, are those the things you push down to lift up rear while back-hoeing?

 

[Check Break]

Stabilizer rods, i don't know, are those the things you push down to lift up rear while back-hoeing?

Yes. Often they're damaged and leak the most fluid. If yours are dry, you're way ahead of the game. There's a zerk on the top of the stabilizer that lubes the pivot pin and another on the rod end where it pivots on the pad.