Ford 5600 Injection Pump?

[toolgarage]

All - I've got a 5600 that got fungus in the gas last year. I've pulled the fuel filter in the tank, scrubbed the inside of the tank, rinsed the tank, replace the inline canister filter (all of these steps have been done three times. The last time there was very little crap on the tank filter).

After it died today, I checked and have really good flow into the canister filter, and also really good flow into the injection pump.

The engine will start immediately and I can run it for 30-60 minutes, then it will abruptly die, and won't restart. If I let it sit for 20 minutes, or crack the injectors and let it crank for a while (very little dripping coming out of the injectors), then it will restart and run fine for another 30-60 minutes.

All new fuel. I put Bio Kleen in the tank last fall so it had all winter to kill that crap. All of my tanks of fuel have Bio Kleen in them as well.

Any ideas? Could this be a bad injection pump starting to fail? Hard to believe this is still fungus after all the cleaning I've done. One other note. When it was running today, it revved up a couple times on its own, no change to the throttle controls. This was a minute or two before it died.....

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Fordfarmer]

All - I've got a 5600 that got fungus in the gas last year. I've pulled the fuel filter in the tank, scrubbed the inside of the tank, rinsed the tank, replace the inline canister filter (all of these steps have been done three times. The last time there was very little crap on the tank filter).

After it died today, I checked and have really good flow into the canister filter, and also really good flow into the injection pump.

The engine will start immediately and I can run it for 30-60 minutes, then it will abruptly die, and won't restart. If I let it sit for 20 minutes, or crack the injectors and let it crank for a while (very little dripping coming out of the injectors), then it will restart and run fine for another 30-60 minutes.

All new fuel. I put Bio Kleen in the tank last fall so it had all winter to kill that crap. All of my tanks of fuel have Bio Kleen in them as well.

Any ideas? Could this be a bad injection pump starting to fail? Hard to believe this is still fungus after all the cleaning I've done. One other note. When it was running today, it revved up a couple times on its own, no change to the throttle controls. This was a minute or two before it died.....

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Reving up (briefly) on it's own sounds like an air leak.

 

[Destroked 450]

Have you cleaned the fuel screen in the back of the inj pump
I’ve had to clean the one in our 5600 twice

 

[toolgarage]

Thanks Destroked! Didn't know that even existed! Will definitely check it. Based on the schematic you provided (Thank you!) Do you know if that filter can be accessed by removing just the top large nut on the body, or do you have to also remove all four screws on the face?

 

[Destroked 450]

It can be accessed thru that but but it’s difficult to get all the components out and back in that way
First time I did it I dropped part # 9 it the hay field and never saw it again
I remove the 4 5/16 screws and take the assembly to a bench or truck tail gate to keep from loosing anything
I reuse the square shouldered o-ring that seals the rear assembly to the transfer pump in the back of the pump
It’s a lot easier to do on a 4 cylinder than my 3 cylinder 4000 with the starter about 1/2” from the pump
I use carb cleaner or brake clean to clean the screen, it’s like a black film that coats the screen
This is after I cleaned it

 

[toolgarage]

Excellent! I appreciate the guidance!!! I'll make sure to put my part catcher (A piece of old shag carpet) under the tractor before I start.

Thanks!

 

[showcrop]

"revving up a couple times on its own is normal for when running out of fuel, which kind of negates "really good flow into the canister filter, and also really good flow into the injection pump."

 

[Destroked 450]

Not if that final screen is stopped up
You’ll have good flow all the way to the pump, but when you loosen the pump bleed and crank the engine you’ll have minimal flow from the bleeder screw

 

[toolgarage]

That's what I was thinking as well Destroked! Will check that filter this weekend.

 

[toolgarage]

Guys - I took apart the front of the injector pump where the filter is, but the parts don't match up with the drawings provided. Attached is a photo of how I believe they should go back together.

Couple questions. The small heavy spring (2nd spring from the left), should the flat metal end go towards the lighter spring to the far left, or towards the piston?

Also the small springed plunger to the right of the filter - should that be as shown or flipped around so it goes into the housing to the left of the filter? When I put it so it goes into the housing it does not fit into the housing and I can't get the nut on.

Also should the piston move freely through the housing? Is it OK to hit it with some steel wool to get it to move freely? It seems to get hung up here and there but the parts are dry at this point

Thank you!!!!!

 

[Destroked 450]

Starting left to right in the photo
Swap positions with #3 (regulating spring) and #4 (piston) and assemble in that order
Once swapped check that wear mark on the springs cap with the piston and spring guide #7, turn it to match up with that part
Place the priming spring #1 in position in the housing making sure it hasn't turned sideways, slide the gasket #2 over the valve sleeve #5. Slide spring #3 and piston #4 into sleeve #5, turn the housing sideways and slide the sleeve assembly into the housing, slide the screen #6 in over the end of the sleeve. Slide the spring guide #7 inside spring #8 just has they look in the photo, again with the housing turn sideway slid that assembly inside the screen, install the nut and copper seal
Note: It will take some downward pressure on the nut to engage the threads in the housing, DO NOT clamp the machined surface of the housing in a vice to tighten the nut, I prefer to screw the nut down in hand and install the housing back on the pump before snugging the nut down with a wrench

Hope this gets you going
John

 

[toolgarage]

Thanks John!!!

More clarifying questions.... For the Regulating Spring, there is a flat metal end on one end of that spring, and based on the wear marks on one end of the piston, it appears the flat metal end goes away from the piston (The metal end would be facing the spring guide based on swapping the positions of the regulating spring and piston you mentioned above). I've used the magic of Photoshop to swap the parts around and show what i think the orientation of the regulating spring should be (above inset photo with my fingers) - please confirm if this is right.

Also - Not sure about your note "Once swapped check that wear mark on the springs cap with the piston and spring guide #7, turn it to match up with that part". Please elaborate.

Thanks again! Hopefully I can get this thing running after a long year of frustration with diesel fungus.....

 

[Destroked 450]

Yes spring cap facing spring guide

 

[Hacke]

Instructions from CAV Workshop Manual, can be downloaded from here:

CAV DPA manuals - Diesel Injection Pumps

CAV DPA applications: CAV DPA 3230F030 Massey Ferguson Perkins A 3.152 CAV DPA 3230F180 Massey Ferguson Perkins A 3.152 CAV DPA 3230F350 Lindner BF 350/450 Massey Ferguson Perkins 3.152 Perkins 3.152 CAV DPA 3230F420 Perkins 3.152 CAV DPA 3230F450

injectionpumps.co.uk

 

[toolgarage]

Hacke - I don't have a Spring Peg (#7 in the Figure 26 drawing) in my system, and also don't have two Piston Regulating Springs (you have marked my photo for the Piston Regulating Spring with both #3 and #7).

My system ran fine until I got diesel fungus last year. Unfortunately, when I took this system apart, the parts just dumped out (unexpected), so I'm trying to put Humpy Dumpty back together again - trying get the order right as well as the orientation for some of the parts.

Appreciate the feedback!

Tim

 

[Hacke]

The spring peg (#7) sits in your piston regulating spring (#3). That is why I marked them together.

The instructions tell you to insert #3 from the bottom, and #7 from the top of the sleeve (#5). Remove the peg from the spring and follow the instructions.

 

[Dieseltech]

The spring peg (#7) sits in your piston regulating spring (#3). That is why I marked them together.

The instructions tell you to insert #3 from the bottom, and #7 from the top of the sleeve (#5). Remove the peg from the spring and follow the instruct

SOME pumps do not use the spring peg, AND some later pumps the peg comes WITH the spring and is not a separate part.

 

[Hacke]

SOME pumps do not use the spring peg, AND some later pumps the peg comes WITH the spring and is not a separate part.

I see. This spring definitely has a peg-like seat in one end. If the spring/peg part cannot be divided, you should be able to insert it, peg/seat up, from the top of the sleeve, and then just the piston from the bottom?

 

[toolgarage]

Hacke - That is Perfect! I was describing it as a closed metal end, but what you describe is spot on! Based on this, I have all the components.

Tim

 

[toolgarage]

one more question for the group. The housing has four small holes in it. Does it matter how the housing is installed in the end plate from a rotation perspective - do any of these holes need to align with something else, or does their position not matter for functionality?