lwmille

Member
What is the tiny inspection cover on the transmission under the starter on a diesel 5600? Why would I have fluid leaking out of it?
 
It is a timing port so timing can be checked. The oil is either engine or transmission. Its going to be black or milky depending on where coming from.
I believe its transmission, I noticed the bolts holding down the steering shaft plate were loose and one was sheered. There was some fluid around the top of the plate as well. Although that may be unrelated.
 
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is there anyway for the power steering fluid to be leaking into there?
More important is... that there is a drain hole on the bottom of this area, with a cotter pin hanging half way out,,, that is supposed to wiggle, to keep the bottom drain open... and the fluid should never get high enough to leak out of the timing hole. Check that bottom hole, and wiggle the cotter pin around, so that it opens up the hole and lets the fluid drain... Sometimes the cotter pin has fallen out.. but you still need to unplug the bottom hole.
 
More important is... that there is a drain hole on the bottom of this area, with a cotter pin hanging half way out,,, that is supposed to wiggle, to keep the bottom drain open... and the fluid should never get high enough to leak out of the timing hole. Check that bottom hole, and wiggle the cotter pin around, so that it opens up the hole and lets the fluid drain... Sometimes the cotter pin has fallen out.. but you still need to unplug the bottom hole.
I’ll check that out in the morning. Would a bad power steering pump push enough fluid into the oil pan causing it to push past the rear main? Really hoping I don’t have to end up splitting this thing
 
I’ll check that out in the morning. Would a bad power steering pump push enough fluid into the oil pan causing it to push past the rear main? Really hoping I don’t have to end up splitting this thing
Is the power steering reservoir getting low with no external sign of a leak? Is the level on the engine dipstick getting high? Does the engine oil smell like the power steering fluid?
 
I’ll check that out in the morning. Would a bad power steering pump push enough fluid into the oil pan causing it to push past the rear main? Really hoping I don’t have to end up splitting this thing
Yes, it can push power steering fluid into the engine via the timing cover.. but you would slowly see the power steering get lower and the engine get fuller....

Could be a bad injection pump seal pushning diesel fuel into the oil pan,,, this is bad due to the oil being thinned down...

and a rear seal can or can not leak into the bell houseing area, or the front transmission seal can leak into the bell housing area.... Is your trans over full????
 
Is the power steering reservoir getting low with no external sign of a leak? Is the level on the engine dipstick getting high? Does the engine oil smell like the power steering fluid?
I just bought the tractor because I got a good deal on it but the engine oil is high, the power steering reservoir is low and looks like water has been getting into it.

Is this supposed to be the cotter pin?
 
IMG_1563.jpeg
 
Yes, it can push power steering fluid into the engine via the timing cover.. but you would slowly see the power steering get lower and the engine get fuller....

Could be a bad injection pump seal pushning diesel fuel into the oil pan,,, this is bad due to the oil being thinned down...

and a rear seal can or can not leak into the bell houseing area, or the front transmission seal can leak into the bell housing area.... Is your trans over full????
The oil doesn’t smell like diesel. The transmission fluid is low but a couple of the hydraulic lines are bad so I’m assuming that’s why.
 
I cleaned out that cotter pin hole and the fluid that drained looks and smells like varnished gasoline…?
Keeping that hole open will keep the fluids from building up and making the clutch plates slip, so check it occasionally. Its not uncommon for most fords to drip a bit from that area, so ford had put a cotter pin in the hole to wiggle around and keep the drain open. Unless it keeps pouring out constantly, I would not worry about it.
 
Since the tractor is new to you, I recommend draining all fluids and replacing with new, as well as changing the various filters so you have a known starting point. Check the fluid levels and top off if needed after running for a bit as the levels may go down a bit after filling from empty due to air pockets in the various systems and the new filters being displaced by the new fluid, and then keep an eye on the fluid levels in all of the sumps, the engine, power steering, transmission and rear axle if it is a separate sump from the transmission. I believe that some of the the 5600's had a shared common sump between the trans and rear axle. That way you will know which ones might be losing fluid and which ones might be gaining fluid even if there is no external sign of a leak.
 
Since the tractor is new to you, I recommend draining all fluids and replacing with new, as well as changing the various filters so you have a known starting point. Check the fluid levels and top off if needed after running for a bit as the levels may go down a bit after filling from empty due to air pockets in the various systems and the new filters being displaced by the new fluid, and then keep an eye on the fluid levels in all of the sumps, the engine, power steering, transmission and rear axle if it is a separate sump from the transmission. I believe that some of the the 5600's had a shared common sump between the trans and rear axle. That way you will know which ones might be losing fluid and which ones might be gaining fluid even if there is no external sign of a leak.
Does the transmission and rear axle get the same type of oil? It is not the dual power so they’re seperate.
 
You need to use a M2C134D rated UTF in the rear axle because of the wet brakes and PTO clutch. If it's a straight 8 speed manual tranny, you could go cheap and use gear oil in there, but you can use UTF there as well. Lots of folks do that so that they only have to keep one kind of fluid on the shelf and to prevent cross contamination if a seal between the sumps fails. The UTF works fine in the power steering as well.
 
You need to use a M2C134D rated UTF in the rear axle because of the wet brakes and PTO clutch. If it's a straight 8 speed manual tranny, you could go cheap and use gear oil in there, but you can use UTF there as well. Lots of folks do that so that they only have to keep one kind of fluid on the shelf and to prevent cross contamination if a seal between the sumps fails. The UTF works fine in the power steering as well.
Any recommendations on a brand? It’s the trans with 4 gears and high low shifter beside it. That’s not dual power right?
 
Any recommendations on a brand? It’s the trans with 4 gears and high low shifter beside it. That’s not dual power right?
Dual power would be the same as what you describe, but also with a lever on the left side of the dash for rabbit and turtle modes, which are two ranges for the dual power, so 4 ranges in total. The dual power, if it has it, is a hydraulically controlled shifter for the two ranges at the input shaft to the manual transmission. If it has dual power, then it needs the 134D UTF fluid.

I use whatever is the least expensive that says on the label that it meets the Ford/New Holland M2C134D specification. Around here that's usually the Travelers Premium UTF sold at Tractor Supply. Sometimes Pep Boys generic brand goes on sale for a little less. Some folks get one from Walmart that can be even less expensive, but none of the Walmart stores around me carry it.
 
Any recommendations on a brand? It’s the trans with 4 gears and high low shifter beside it. That’s not dual power right?
Your 5600 holds 12qts in the trans, and 43 qts in the rear axle... assuming you dont have dual power. It calls for M2C134-A fluid or J20a utf... but since either one of those have be replaced by the better and later fluids, you can also use M2C134-b, m2c-134-C and M2C-134-D fluids with no problem. My Early Manuals..... for the x600, and 6700/7700 series shows you could also use the early M2C-53-A fluids or 303 fluids that preceded the above. So any fluid meeting these or newer will work fine. But in reality you will probably find m2c134-d or j20c fluids out there today. You can also buy ambra multi G or full synthetic fluids for a lot more money as well. So look for who sells at least m2c-53a or newer, for the cheapest price... ie

https://www.external_link.com/tsc/p...0a-plus-utility-tractor-fluid-5-gal-vp2040114

at around 53 bucks.

btw M2C-53-A fluids were banned due to use of whale oil for a viscosity stiffener, and you absolutely not find anyone selling that spec oil due to international treaties signed in 1978 banning all use of whale products. iirc. they will not even reference it in most cases.
 
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