Ford 600 starter issue

[BrittH]

I have a Ford 650 tractor and tonight after no previous starting
problems, the starter was spinning/making noise but not turning over
the engine. Im looking for help on where to start tracking down the
problem. Do I just need a need starter?

The engine is not locked up as cant turn it by hand on fan blade.

 

[BrittH]

Also want to note that I had it started about 10 minutes prior and killed it to go in to get a drink of water and then would not start back up when i got back out.

 

[M-MAN]

Starter drive is bad and can be replaced. If it was the ring gear it would have worked after you turned it by hand.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

The first thing you need to check is the battery. A non-starting engine with just the starter motor spinning usually is an indication the battery is weak or dead. Don't waste time trying to connect it to a basic trickle charger. The battery must meet the specific gravity level. It can be tested with a hydrometer, or more accurately with a bench test. Take the battery to your trusty, local starter/alternator shop and have him bench test it on his special machine. How are the battery cables? Old and frayed? 6V or 12V or EI? Whatever system, do you have a belt tensioner on your GEN or ALT? It is a must-have to charge the battery. When battery is right, then, and only then, continue to investigate the starter motor, and, NO, you do not need to buy a new Cheena made junker unit. Get the OEM one tested rebuilt if needed, but your trusty shop guy can bench test and rebuild it as well. Verify wiring no matter what system you have. If you do not use a Battery Tender float charger, get one and keep it connected when tractor is idle so you have a fully charged battery when needed.


You need a strong battery to:
1. Spin the starter
2. Engage the Bendix
3. Provide voltage to the coil.


No matter what electrical system you use, 6V/POS GRN; 12V NEG/GRN; or an EI setup in 6 or 12 volts, you must keep the battery maintained at full charge so it's ready to go when you are. That means getting a true float charger NOT a trickle charger. A battery/machine left idle for a week or longer will start to lose it's specific gravity and deplete the plates thus resulting with a weak or dead battery. Simply connecting a charger when planning on starting up won't be effective if battery is weak or dead. GEN or ALT must use a belt tensioner to charge the battery. Cables must be correct size and good solid connections.

The battery is the 'heart' of the electrical system. A weak or dead battery is often the culprit in non-starting tractors/vehicles. The constant discharging and recharging of a battery will deplete its life span quickly. Bargain house units have a reputation of only giving 2 years or less of life so invest in a good brand (INTERSTATE, DEKA, DURACELL/East Penn) GP1 6V AG or GP25 or GP 35 12V battery. The best investment you can make to ensure a long battery lifespan is to buy and use a float charger. NOTE: A basic battery charger is not a 'float charger'. Simply charging a battery does NOT mean it is good. It must maintain a full charge under load, meet the specific gravity specs by testing with an hydrometer or bench tester at a shop. When the vehicle is idle, i.e not running, you keep the float charger connected so it will maintain a full charge so it is 100% ready to go when you need it. Keep it connected if tractor is idle for 10 days or more. I just keep mine on every time when idle and use the DELTRN BATTERY TENDER units reliable and guaranteed. Your local trusty starter/alternator/generator shop guy can bench test the battery, generator or alternator, ammeter, voltage regulator or cutout, ignition switch, Period preventative maintenance is the key. Check wiring belt tension often. If your generator does not have a belt tensioning bracket, it will not keep the belt tight and thus will not keep the battery charged. Lack of fan belt tension is another big non-starting reason regardless of what system you use.

FORD TRACTOR BATTERY INFO:

BATTERY TENDER JR (6V) BY DELTRAN:

Tim Daley(MI)

 

[bc]

Hello Britt. Another Britt in the world.

Could be a bad connection, solenoid, cable, or need to clean all the connections for any corrosion. That is where I'd start. Britt

 

[RufusMons]

I agree with the recommendation that you check all electrical connections and wires.

I had a similar starting problem which, after a lot of connection troubleshooting, turned out to be a bad battery cable which though it passed enough current to show 12 volts on a meter could not pass enough current to engage the solenoid. I discovered that problem by following advice in a previous post about checking the voltage drop across every connection.

 

[Jim L WA]

He says the starter is spinning, so the solenoid is working. I would pull the starter and look at the starter drive.

 

[showcrop]

It is most likely just the starter drive. The drive is so common that they are stocked at many auto supply stores.

 

[showcrop]

When this happens it is common to find that the starter drive has lost a washer and a couple other small parts off the end. It is not necessary to fish them out of the bell housing. It is very common to find those parts in the bell housing when one of these old Fords is split.

 

[BrittH]

Im glad to hear that....I was pulling out the old starter and heard
something drop in the bell housing LOL. Ill try and get it out but if
your saying no biggie if not wont fish too hard. I Got a new starter
with bendix drive coming and hope to be back up and running .


Thanks for all the help everyone that has commented.

 

[bc]

Anymore you need a magnetic pick up tool for anything you work on. Also those inspection cameras are cheap so you can stick them into various tractor and engine housings through the oil plug holes to look around at gears, bearings, etc.