Ford 6610 force 2 alternator replacement

[Toddmcc]

Hi guys,
Tried to replace the alternator on my ford 6610, got one that was supposed to replace original but would not charge, found out it was for a 6610s, got another one 70amp one supposedly the right one, but looks the same as the first one , still not charging, I noticed it is missing a few electrical components from the picture from the one they gave me. (See two black components on sparex alternator image- these are not on the one they provided even though it is the same part number on box) anyone help with what I am missing here. My original alternator is a Lucas 24250B the replacement I have is a sparex s42282,

 

[Jim.ME]

It might help if you added New Zealand as a location in your profile. From your past posts it looks like this is a series III, which was not distributed in the USA.

Do you have the correct parts book for your tractor? Is the cross reference to the Sparex alternator being made by Ford/NH part number, Lucas number or Sparex application chart. It can sometimes make a difference in the result. Also be aware that photos in ads are not always the actual item being sold, generic stock photos are often used in ads.

Do you have a wiring diagram? Have you checked for wiring issues? A broken wire or a bad connection can prevent charging just as easily as a failed alternator.

 

[Sean in PA]

The parts site shows 10 different alternators for the 6610 depending on the amperage and where they were made to be sold. A few used a single design for multiple amperage ratings and some were one-offs.

 

[Bern]

Hi guys,
Tried to replace the alternator on my ford 6610, got one that was supposed to replace original but would not charge, found out it was for a 6610s, got another one 70amp one supposedly the right one, but looks the same as the first one , still not charging, I noticed it is missing a few electrical components from the picture from the one they gave me. (See two black components on sparex alternator image- these are not on the one they provided even though it is the same part number on box) anyone help with what I am missing here. My original alternator is a Lucas 24250B the replacement I have is a sparex s42282,

Your problem is likely external with the wiring. This system relies on a signal from the key switch to initiate charging, in addition to a functional battery temperature sensor.

 

[Texasmark]

Hi guys,
Tried to replace the alternator on my ford 6610, got one that was supposed to replace original but would not charge, found out it was for a 6610s, got another one 70amp one supposedly the right one, but looks the same as the first one , still not charging, I noticed it is missing a few electrical components from the picture from the one they gave me. (See two black components on sparex alternator image- these are not on the one they provided even though it is the same part number on box) anyone help with what I am missing here. My original alternator is a Lucas 24250B the replacement I have is a sparex s42282,

The 3 terminal connections are: Looking at your picture on the left from the left to right terminals: 1 is either 12v or ground....wire color code should define which is which. 2 is the compliment.....12v feed to the battery, or ground, 3 is the exciting voltage and without it the regulator won't work.....on my Fords. Of the three wires, the exciting voltage wire is the smallest diameter.

 

[Hacke]

In the last page of the PDF I have attached, the terminals are explained for both types of alternator.

The black box is the radio noise suppressor.
There does not seem to be a sense terminal on your new alternator. If so, you can omit the old wire coming from the temperature sensor in the battery tray.

 

[Hacke]

Did you check the battery temperature sensor before deciding that the old alternator is bad?

This is what an A127 type alternator with a terminal for the battery temperature sensor should look like.

One with terminal for battery sensor and radio noise suppressor attached.

 

[Toddmcc]

Hey guys, some great advice, my old alternator worked, but only if I gave it one full rev, then after that it would charge, regarding te battery sensor I tried putting a 200 ohm resistor from the + wire to the aux terminal, but no joy, and because my old one did work, I don’t think this is the issue, I believe Hacke is onto something as the photos of the correct replacement has those extra electrical components, I guess for the temp sensor and exciter to make it charge- as mine is the digital dash the standard alternator for analogue models does not work. I think Sparex have duped me on the second alternator as it should have the same components as the one Harte is showingThe photo below is the one they have provided?

 

[Toddmcc]

In the last page of the PDF I have attached, the terminals are explained for both types of alternator.

The black box is the radio noise suppressor.
There does not seem to be a sense terminal on your new alternator. If so, you can omit the old wire coming from the temperature sensor in the battery tray.

Thanks Hacke, yes now I understand, so the 133 series is the same as my original one, and the 127 series is what they have provided. It has an Aux terminal which is what I assumed is the battery sensor? As I said I tried the 200ohm resistor across the aux and main output terminal but this did nothing. I just don’t understand what the exciter is for the new alternator?

 

[Toddmcc]

In the last page of the PDF I have attached, the terminals are explained for both types of alternator.

The black box is the radio noise suppressor.
There does not seem to be a sense terminal on your new alternator. If so, you can omit the old wire coming from the temperature sensor in the battery tray.

 

[Hacke]

Thanks Hacke, yes now I understand, so the 133 series is the same as my original one, and the 127 series is what they have provided. It has an Aux terminal which is what I assumed is the battery sensor? As I said I tried the 200ohm resistor across the aux and main output terminal but this did nothing. I just don’t understand what the exciter is for the new alternator?

The radio noise suppressor is not needed in order to make the alternator charge. If you encounter disturbing radio noise, you can easily add a suppressor capacitor.

The battery temperature sensor is not used on the new alternator. There is some inbuilt temperature compensating function.

I cannot see a terminal for an electronic tachometer on the old alternator. The new one has an AC tap (8), but you have to find out how your tachometer is connected before using that terminal. If the tachometer is cable driven, the terminal is not used.

You only need 1, 2 and ground connected on the new alternator to make it work. The new alternator is grounded through the casing.

 

[Toddmcc]

The radio noise suppressor is not needed in order to make the alternator charge. If you encounter disturbing radio noise, you can easily add a suppressor capacitor.

The battery temperature sensor is not used on the new alternator. There is some inbuilt temperature compensating function.

I cannot see a terminal for an electronic tachometer on the old alternator. The new one has an AC tap (8), but you have to find out how your tachometer is connected before using that terminal. If the tachometer is cable driven, the terminal is not used.

You only need 1, 2 and ground connected on the new alternator to make it work. The new alternator is grounded through the casing.

View attachment 129988

Thanks Hacke, the aux on the new one I have is up between 1 and 8, with the warning lamp at 2. What does aux actually do?

 

[Toddmcc]

Thanks everyone for your comments, much appreciated, it turned out that the led warning lamp was the issue, replaced it with original bulb and solved- ChatGpt gave me the final answer, I could have used a 47-100ohm 5w resistor in parallel with ignition and warning light led and would have also done the trick. Thanks again everyone, much appreciated.

 

[Jim.ME]

Glad you found the problem. Had we known you changed the indicator light to LED we might have given you the same answer. It comes up here at times about LEDs will not work as a stand-alone indicator light in an alternator's excitation circuit.