ford 800

[bloomune]

Rust in gas. I did all the things that were talked about in my first post, and all I saw was tiny particles of rust in the gas, it still wont run when you load it up. What I'm wondering, is there any good way to eliminate the rust in the gas tank? The tank really dont look so bad, but that has to be where it's coming from.

 

[souNdguy]

You can line it.. but i hate to epoxy up a good tank that just needs a thourough cleaning.

Perhaps drain it and then pour in some phosphoric acid.. slosh around and then dispose of safely.

Flush the tank out a few times and then go back with a new tap. and clean fuel bowls, etc.

If you think carb is dirty.. clean it. If you want the fast clean.. pull the main needle and shoot some carb cleaner in there.. same at fuel inlet hole.. not a replacement for going thru it with fine wire and compressed aire.. after letting it set in chem-dip overnight.. then repalce all jets and washers and packings.. etc..

Soundguy

 

[GlenIdaho]

bloomune; The rust is probably getting into your carb. There should be a fine screen attached to the fuel shut off valve on the bottom of the take. The screen is inside the tank. The valve must be removed to access it. It is very fine. You might check to see if it is there. It may have been removed or is damaged. The second "filter" is the screen in the sediment bowl of the carb. It is not quite as fine meshed.

POR 15 sells a product called U.S. Standard Fuel Tank Sealer that comes with a metal prep that is supposed to kill the rust and prep the metal for the sealant. I did it to my tank and it worked well. There have been other posts on this site concerning the same issue so you might check the archives. Your local auto paint store should have it in stock. If not, you can buy it direct online. For info go to www.POR 15.com. It takes some time to do it, but it is worth it, i.e. $250 + for a new tank or $45.00 for the sealant. Once its done you won't have to worry about rust.

Hope this helps you.

 

[t-mark]

Bloomune,
I was having the same trouble as you. My screens(fuel shutoff and sed. bowl) were in good shape, the rust was simply going through them.
I had my tank lined with the epoxy and cleaned the carb. I've only ran it under load twice since then but both times it ran just fine, no faltering, etc. Knock on wood, so far I'm happy with it.
It costed me $125 to have it professionally done. I was advised by local folks(not the guy who did it) not to do it myself.
Sound, cleaning the tank may have done the trick but I just didn't want to take the chance of it happening again.

mark

 

[john_Bud]

There are several fuel tank sealants that do a good job. POR and Creem are two most often mentioned.

If you want to mess with it and give it a good cleaning as Soundguy mentioned that may do the trick. If you have a second tractor, strapping the tank to a rear wheel, putting a 18' chain in the tank and driving around for 1/2 hour will clean out the rust.

Then power wash, dry with laquer thinner or alcohol and then a phosphoric acid wash (I use The Must for Rust) should do it. I would add an additional inline filter with a clear bowl. 10 micron element.

good luck
jb

 

[Gary Alford]

I did find some debris in the tank, but not that much, I am haveing a local radiator shop put some sealer in it anyway though. I took the new old valve apart and found that the seal packing was turning to mush, I would have to guess it's from the gas additives they are now useing, I did put a can of seafoam in the gas every now and then in hopes of keeping the fuel fresh as I only use the tractor about 15hrs. a year, I do keep the fuel tank full to help keep the moisture out. The fuel shut off screen had some brown chauky stuff on it from like old gas that fell off soon as it dried out. I will try to find some better packing or O-ring material. Atleast with the way I have the valve repaired now it won't be a big deal to remove it if it leaks.