Ford 860 wont start

Jbelokur

Member
Hello all,
I have a Ford 860 I bought a few years ago. I use it mostly for brush hogging, tilling my garden and clearing snow from my driveway. A few weeks back when it was still in the 60's temp wise, I went over the tractor and got it moved into place where I park it for plowing. We had our first real snow the other day and I went to start it without luck. It is in neutral, with throttle at 1/3ish, ignition on...all the normal stuff. (also to note, I have a brand new battery a month ago) It turns over and acts like it will start for a revolution or two then the starter disengages without the engine starting. I made sure it was getting fuel, and popped off the distributer to make sure there wasn't moisture. I also rubbed down the contacts with sandpaper and confirmed that the wires were snug on the plugs themselves. I don't know what to do. I popped off the tube running from the oil air filter to the carb, and fuel ran out, not a lot but I'm not sure if it is flooding or what is going on. Thank you for your thoughts!
 
Remove the plugs and use a propane torch to heat them so hot that the ground electrode gets red! Put them back in when they are as hot as you can handle with a rubber hose on the insulator to get them started. You did not mention the choke! so apply that for 2 or three seconds then 1/2 choke. always turn off the fuel at the tank when stopping for the day or more than an hour. Jim
 
Hello all,
I have a Ford 860 I bought a few years ago. I use it mostly for brush hogging, tilling my garden and clearing snow from my driveway. A few weeks back when it was still in the 60's temp wise, I went over the tractor and got it moved into place where I park it for plowing. We had our first real snow the other day and I went to start it without luck. It is in neutral, with throttle at 1/3ish, ignition on...all the normal stuff. (also to note, I have a brand new battery a month ago) It turns over and acts like it will start for a revolution or two then the starter disengages without the engine starting. I made sure it was getting fuel, and popped off the distributer to make sure there wasn't moisture. I also rubbed down the contacts with sandpaper and confirmed that the wires were snug on the plugs themselves. I don't know what to do. I popped off the tube running from the oil air filter to the carb, and fuel ran out, not a lot but I'm not sure if it is flooding or what is going on. Thank you for your thoughts!
Try holding your hand over the air intake and try to start it. Doing that is may start but be sure you don't hold you hand there long or it will flood but sometimes that is all it takes.
 
I'll give it a shot, I've used the tractor in cold weather for the last two years and haven't had this problem. Maybe I need to put new plugs/wires/distributer cap on it.
 
I've tried holding my hand over the intake, no luck. When removing the spark plugs I checked each for spark. The first cylinder (closest to the seat) is not sparking. Is do you think this is a distributer cap, wires or plug? Can I get a distributer cap and wires at a local shop?
 
I've tried holding my hand over the intake, no luck. When removing the spark plugs I checked each for spark. The first cylinder (closest to the seat) is not sparking. Is do you think this is a distributer cap, wires or plug? Can I get a distributer cap and wires at a local shop?
I'd first try new spark plugs. I use NGK3112 plugs in my Fords. I'd also try this. Pull the center wire out of the distributor cap and make sure you have a good blue white spark that will jump a 1/4 inch gap or more. No spark good chance you need to clean the points or replace them
 
I've tried holding my hand over the intake, no luck. When removing the spark plugs I checked each for spark. The first cylinder (closest to the seat) is not sparking. Is do you think this is a distributer cap, wires or plug? Can I get a distributer cap and wires at a local shop?
Did you ground the plug to the engine block when checking for spark? It must be grounded to spark/to complete the circuit. Mark.
 
I've tried holding my hand over the intake, no luck. When removing the spark plugs I checked each for spark. The first cylinder (closest to the seat) is not sparking. Is do you think this is a distributer cap, wires or plug? Can I get a distributer cap and wires at a local shop?
To avoid confusion: #1 cylinder is closest to the front of the engine (water pump/radiator end). #4 cylinder is closest to the seat (fly wheel end).
 
Did you ground the plug to the engine block when checking for spark? It must be grounded to spark/to complete the circuit. Mark.
Yes, I did. Plugs 1-3 I got spark #4 nothing. Also, I’ve altered my numbering of the affected cylinder plug based on the next post.
 
If the point setting is not correct, the distributor cam bushing wear can make it have those symptoms. If you can move the shaft up down, toward engine and away, even a tiny amount, it is in need of a new bushing or a rebuilt distributor. Jim
Okay, Thank you. I will check.
 
What you describe is very common especially with 6 volts. In cold weather it takes a very rich mixture. It is perfectly normal if it doesn't start with choke closed after three or four revolutions for gas to run out the intake. This is simply gravity at work. the as went up, it didn't start, the gas comes back down. The starter disengages because one cylinder fired. That kick is enough to disengage the starter without it starting. It is very difficult to flood an engine with an updraft carburetor. You need to choke it for longer. The spark plugs need to be getting wet for it to start in cold conditions. take a spark plug reading. find out what the status in the cylinder is.
 
What you describe is very common especially with 6 volts. In cold weather it takes a very rich mixture. It is perfectly normal if it doesn't start with choke closed after three or four revolutions for gas to run out the intake. This is simply gravity at work. the as went up, it didn't start, the gas comes back down. The starter disengages because one cylinder fired. That kick is enough to disengage the starter without it starting. It is very difficult to flood an engine with an updraft carburetor. You need to choke it for longer. The spark plugs need to be getting wet for it to start in cold conditions. take a spark plug reading. find out what the status in the cylinder is.
It's been converted to 12v.
 
I really don't know.
I did not mean to give your replay a like -I meant to hit reply- sorry. Anyway- if the starter is cranking the engine over and suddenly goes 'zing' and stops cranking/rotating the engine- the Bendix maybe at fault. Usually if an engine is trying to fire, but does not, the Bendix will stay engaged and keep cranking the engine-the starter may speed up a tiny bit as the engine tries to fire and then slow back to normal cranking speed until the engine starts. The engine starting/running - speeding up its rotating speed, is what is supposed to kick the Bendix out, as well as you letting off the starter button. An engine can fire up and immediately die, and this would be normal for the starter to kick out because the engine sped up faster than the starter would crank. I hope this helps-it's kind of hard to explain, it's kind of a thing I could 'hear' and then say that's what's wrong. Good luck, Mark.
 
I did not mean to give your replay a like -I meant to hit reply- sorry. Anyway- if the starter is cranking the engine over and suddenly goes 'zing' and stops cranking/rotating the engine- the Bendix maybe at fault. Usually if an engine is trying to fire, but does not, the Bendix will stay engaged and keep cranking the engine-the starter may speed up a tiny bit as the engine tries to fire and then slow back to normal cranking speed until the engine starts. The engine starting/running - speeding up its rotating speed, is what is supposed to kick the Bendix out, as well as you letting off the starter button. An engine can fire up and immediately die, and this would be normal for the starter to kick out because the engine sped up faster than the starter would crank. I hope this helps-it's kind of hard to explain, it's kind of a thing I could 'hear' and then say that's what's wrong. Good luck, Mark.
It can also just fire one time on one cylinder and it is enough to let it kick out.
 
Finally got around to replacing the distributer cap, plugs and wires. Started on the first push of the starter button. Thanks for the help!
 

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