Ford 8n electronic ignition

Hello everyone. I'm trying help a friend
install a 12v electronic ignition in his
8n. The tractor has already been
converted to a 12v charging system with
a negative ground setup. We installed
the new electronic pickup in the
distributor and ran a dedicated 12v wire
to it. We are having an issue of no
fire. The square coil is still running
through a ballast resistor and is only
getting a reading of 2.5v on the output side so I'm pretty
sure the ballast resistor is bad. From
what I've read it should be getting
around 9v. Does that sound correct and do the newer 12v square coils still requirethe resistor? Also
how can I check the new pickup to make
sure it is working correctly? Thanks for
any help.
 
do the newer 12v square coils still requirethe resistor?

Yes, the oem ballast resistor and no other. See tip # 30.

Run a jumper directly from the battery to the EI and see what happens. 12v won't hurt the EI.
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 17:36:35 04/17/21) Hello everyone. I'm trying help a friend
install a 12v electronic ignition in his
8n. The tractor has already been
converted to a 12v charging system with
a negative ground setup. We installed
the new electronic pickup in the
distributor and ran a dedicated 12v wire
to it. We are having an issue of no
fire. The square coil is still running
through a ballast resistor and is only
getting a reading of 2.5v on the output side so I'm pretty
sure the ballast resistor is bad. From
what I've read it should be getting
around 9v. Does that sound correct and do the newer 12v square coils still requirethe resistor? Also
how can I check the new pickup to make
sure it is working correctly? Thanks for
any help.
hat is number of Pertronix unit? What is diagram of your installation? We have no crystal ball.
 
My apologies for not providing enough
information. The kit installed was from
Dragon Fire Performance. I'll add a
picture from their website. The
instructions said to secure the black
wire with the brass bolt that contacts
the coil and the red wire should be run
to the key switch. The power wire for
the coil is running through 2 resistors
and is only showing a reading of around
2-2.5 volts at the coil. Is that enough
voltage for a 6v coil or should I take
one of the resistors out of the equation
and upgrade to a 12v coil instead?
cvphoto85442.jpg
 
@.45v on 6v coil is Ford spec. I would give it at least a brief try, using only the original 8N resistor, #12250
 
(quoted from post at 11:44:11 04/18/21) I found the actual kit my friend ordered.
<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto85445.jpg>
n that case, it is almost a certainty that the coil is 12v and should only need the 12250 Ford factory resistor. An Ohmmeter from spring pig tail to stud on top of coil will show ~2.5 Ohms on 12v coil & ~0.5 to 1.0 Ohm on 6v coil. Voltage when stalled and EI "on", i.e., conducting will be much closer to 10 volts than 2.5
 
Ok I will try with just the 1 resistor.
How can I just check the electronic
module to make sure it is working in
case I still don't have any fire?
 
Do I need the resister with the electronic ignition?
Should I time the electronic ignition, or is center close enough? How do I time the electronic ignition? I have a timing jig.
 
The oem ballast resistor is needed to reduce the current to the square coil, not the points or EI. Yes, you need it. See tip # 30.

Make sur it's the oem ballast resistor and not a ceramic one.

Set the timing in the center; no way to set timing on a front distributor w/EI.
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 08:15:01 06/08/21)

Set the timing in the center; no way to set timing on a front distributor w/EI.

Why can't you use the jig and the diagnostic test setup posted by Jesse? The jig sets the distributor cam angle and the VOM tells you when the module triggers (e.g. "points open")

TOH
 
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