Ford 8N update pt. 2

[Dr.Corn]

as I said before, I have a 1952 Ford 8n tractor. I am a newbie and don't know very much about this stuff. I am trying to get it going ASAP!

it wouldn't start. so we went and got a solenoid and a new battery and a new starter.

then when we replaced all that stuff, we got to fire and run as long as the starter switch was being held down. as soon as we released the switch, the engine died. I am 110% confused on why this is.

also we tried to pull start it, with no success I might add.

so I was hoping that you guys could help me out

 

[Bruce (VA)]

You wired the solenoid backwards or got the wrong solenoid for the tractor. The only way your coil is getting voltage is through the solenoid. Let off the starte button, no coil voltage, tractor stops running.

6v or 12v?

Google " wiring diagrams JMOR" find the one for your tractor & follow it.

What was wrong with the solenoid that was on the tractor?
75 Tips

 

[Bill M. From Illinois]

You might want to recheck wiring on solenoid. It sounds like the wire to ignition is on wrong terminal lug.

 

[Dr.Corn]

Bruce-

It is a 6V. And the solenoid appeared to be just old and worn. Plus everything that I read that was related to the problem that I was having said to just start with the solenoid. So I did

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Not sure where you got " Plus everything that I read that was related to the problem that I was having said to just start with the solenoid." from.

Reading back through your two stated problems, no one responding suggested that you had a defective solenoid.

The clicking sound you initially heard from the solenoid was caused by low voltage as you determined by finding a defective battery.

Now, running only when the starter button is depressed has but two causes: the incorrect solenoid for your tractor or incorrect wiring.
75 Tips

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

You shouldn't just start replacing parts without first doing a methodical problem solving procedure to determine the true root cause. Guessing should be left to picking lottery numbers. Chances are some or all of the parts you changed are still good. Get out your essential manuals, 8N Operator's Manual, I&T F-04 Manual; and the 39-53 MPC (Master Parts Catalog), as well as a copy of Bruce(VA)'s 75 Tips for N-Owners, and a copy of Wiring Pictograms by JMOR. ALL of these are important tools -just as valuable as socket wrench. It sounds to me like your wiring is all jazzed up. The original Ford electrical systems are/were all 6-volt/positive ground. They consisted of a generator and cutout circuit on earlier 9N and 2N models and with the 8N a voltage regulator and generator. Many N's have been switched over to a 12-volt negative ground system using a more modern alternator. Simply replacing the battery won't do much unless it is connected properly. Cheap units can be defective out the door and often have poor life spans anyway. Battery must sustain power under a load, must meet specific gravity specs, so take it to a starter shop or auto parts store and get it tested. Follow the wiring diagram to a TEE -no deviations or else you will have problems. Make sure you have the correct gauge of battery cables -thick ones for 6-volr. make all wiring connections with battery disconnected and once confirmed they are correct, you can connect the battery but it won't hurt to polarize the generator/VR before cranking over. If you have lights, I suggest you disconnect them before you start troubleshooting ALL the wiring to get them out of the equation for now. Once problem is solved, you can always reconnect them.

ESSENTIAL 8N OWNERS MANUALS:

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Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)​

 

[jon corbett]

in plain English your starter switch is acting like a key switch..