Ford 9N Sleeve Installation

FarmallCT

Member
Hi All,

As mentioned previously I am working on a Ford 9N project with the mechanics class I am teaching.

We have reached the point at which we are ready to begin to install the sleeves and reassemble the motor. This tractor takes .040 thin wall sleeves and we are trying to avoid breaking them. We currently have them in the freezer to shrink them as well as the block in a classroom which is about 70 degrees, but we are not sure that this will be enough. We also do not have any sort of tool to use to install the sleeves, and do not have the ability to make the tool or have the tool made.

Any suggestions or advice for the installation of these type of sleeves?

Thanks in advance,

~FarmallCT
 
I'm with mike I'm not sure a 40 to 50 degree difference will be enough I know when I did a muzzle brake on a shotgun I put the barrel in the freezer and heated the brake with a torch I had about 1.5 thousands press fit
 
See if you can get a "deal" from a local engine rebuilder to put them in (might even be able to get it done free- good cause, kid's education, etc)- then take up a collection amongst the student's parents to finance it. With no tools or expertise, I don't see a good outcome on this as a DIY project.
 
Heating the block with infrared lamps over night will help. i think 120 degrees would work. Dry ise and thick gloves to apply is also reasonable. Have an oak 2X4 and a mallet ready to seat then when they are near fully in. Jim
 
For what it's worth a 70 degree temperature drop will shrink the sleeve's diameter by just over 1.5 thousandths of an inch. This is assuming a coefficient of thermal expansion for the steel of 6.5x10^-6/F and a sleeve diameter of 3-1/4".
 
I put sleeves in a Vega block once. Sleeves in a freezer and heated the block on w wood stove. Then I pressed them in with a press. If you have a press, I think they will go in no matter what. It made a worthless engine that Chevy made into a good engine. Don't get me started on the junk that Chevy has made.
 
For what little i have worked on the old Fords i borrowed the sleeve DRIVER from the old Ford dealer as he had the drivers for all the sleeves . It was made the full length of the sleeve and you slipped the sleeve over the driver and used kerosene as a lube and ya drive them in with a hammer . I used my four pounder and in a clean bore they drove in nice .
 
The .040 "thin wall" sleeves are easy to collapse upon installation, which is why most machine shops recommend boring early blocks for installation of the .090 cast iron sleeves.

You will need an installation tool and you will need dry ice for the sleeves and a heated block.

There are some very experienced N series folks on the 9/2/8 N forum, above, and on the N Board.

Dean
 
To do the .040 sleeves, a driver will be necessary.

I would also recommend you freeze the driver along with the sleeves.

You'll need some cold mass inside the sleeve, or it will instantly pick up heat from the hot block much faster than you can get them in.
 
Any idea where a driver can be obtained? Have looked online but cannot seem to find one and when we do it does not appear to be the right size. Other problem is if we do find it the supplier needs to be setup as a vendor with the school and accept purchase orders.

We will definitely try cold inside the cylinders. Trying to get dry ice but have plenty of normal ice.
 
These new sleeves seem to be more prone to cracking and shattering more than collapsing. The old sleeves we pulled out were definitely more durable and bendy.

Have not been able to find an installation tool yet, trying to get some dry ice currently.
 
We were able to get a hot air blower from the small animal lab to use to heat the block, gets it up to a very nice temperature. We are working on getting dry ice and will also likely hone the block out a bit more as the head holds the sleeves in a bit and they should expand when running.
 
It was briefly considered but due to time and budget limitations was not something that could be done. It was not anticipated that the sleeve installation would be as difficult as it has been.
 
Working on getting dry ice. The place nearby is closed for the rest of the week and the others nearby are too far away to be able to pick up during the day.
 
We are working on getting it setup to heat the entire block to a higher temperature with what we have available to get a greater difference in temperature.
 
If your school has a machine shop class could one of the students there turn a heavy pipe for the bore inside the sleeve then weld a plate to the top of it. Then just smooth up the corner where the sleeve will set. Then just drive it in with a lube. Kerosene,brake fluid,oil or whatever. Cooling your lube like the brake fluid in the freezer with the sleeves will help with the temperature.
 

My first sleeve driver was a truck axle I cut off about 10" long I put the flat again the sleeve and used the axle as a handle... Play safe hitting it ware safety glasses...

A machine shop could knock you out a driver quick... I have not installed a sleeve in years I let my local machine shop install and fit if need be they are set up to do it RIGHT and the block is going there to be cleaned and the valve seats ground/replaced anyways...

In my case its the cost of doing businesses and I pass the cost to the customer.
 


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(quoted from post at 22:54:55 11/18/19) Working on getting dry ice. The place nearby is closed for the rest of the week and the others nearby are too far away to be able to pick up during the day.


Plenty of videos out there to show you how to make dry ice if you have a Co2 fire extinguisher.
 

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