Ford CA212C model

[eco-logic]

This is my first tractor and need to repair some things. I made 2 mistakes buying manuals but either was for my model. I don't know the model. I have call more than 10 different places (New Holland dealers, tractor parts stores, etc) and nobody can tell me what tractor I have. New Holland told me today that I have to call a dealer in England for help. This are the numbers in the tractor:

CA212C
9C23
*B346604*

Right now the tractor is empty in the transmission oil, the hydraulics oil, the rear axle oil and the engine oil. I need the amount of oil for each part and what kind. Additionally I need info for the hydraulics priming. The water in the radiator is brown, I need advice.

I just want to spend the little money I have in the right manual for it.

Thanks in advance for everyone that help.

Hiram

 

[Carrie]

http://www.springfieldbiz.com/oaktree/fordtractor.htm
Try this site. It should get you closer.

 

[Rick from NC]

(quoted from post at 16:24:55 12/15/09) This is my first tractor and need to repair some things. I made 2 mistakes buying manuals but either was for my model. I don't know the model. I have call more than 10 different places (New Holland dealers, tractor parts stores, etc) and nobody can tell me what tractor I have. New Holland told me today that I have to call a dealer in England for help. This are the numbers in the tractor:

CA212C
9C23
*B346604*

Right now the tractor is empty in the transmission oil, the hydraulics oil, the rear axle oil and the engine oil. I need the amount of oil for each part and what kind. Additionally I need info for the hydraulics priming. The water in the radiator is brown, I need advice.

I just want to spend the little money I have in the right manual for it.

Thanks in advance for everyone that help.

Hiram

Someone decoded your model number the other day as a 3600. Here's a 3600 with your exact same model number up for auction.

Does this look like your tractor? If you still have doubts why not post some pic's of the tractor? As far as your tractor being built in England that shouldn't make any little difference to a NH dealer that knows what they are talking about. There are only minor differences between and english built 3600 and a US built one.

 

[sotxbill]

ford built these tractors in 3 factories.. american, antwerp belgium, and basildon england.. all shared parts with each other and had very minor differences. The differences are basically external like running boards, fenders, options like lights and horns, emergency brakes, and licenseplate holders as required by different countrys and market conditions.In some countrys is common for tractors to travel the roads and pull wagons to markets, so tractors sold in those countries had to meet those traffic laws. The ford parts lists show the common parts and the optional parts where applicable so your new holland dealer was apparently very new and did not know the older models very well at all. But employees do change and retire. English tractors usually had the wider running boards, fold over rear fenders, emergency brakes, a horn and lights mounted in the grill. Other parts are identical to american and antwerp models. Later some models were made only in England ironically.

enjoy your very normal and common tractor.

 

[RodinNS]

Christ...
You probably need to find a better dealer if they told you to call england.
If you can post a couple of pictures showing the steering arrangement and the rear axle fairly close, shot from the left side I can likely tell you what it is.
It was built in 1979 making it a 600 series tractor... so the manuals you need pretain to the 3 cylinder x600 models.

Don't overthink the fluid levels either. There should be either a level plug on the right side of the transmission or a dipstick. Rear axle will be the same. Either a stick on the left or a plug, probably on the right. Somewhere around the level of the footboard. Basic volumes will be about a bucket in the rear axle and half a bucket in the transmission. ALL meeting the Ford/NH 134D specifications.
Engine will use a diesel rated 15W40 unless you live in penguin land... then a diesel rated 10W30 will suffice. Rotella, XD3, Delvac, etc are all examples. Fill it until it's full on the stick. Probably 7 quarts.

Cooling system.... drain. Fill with vinegar and warm it up, then drain the vinegar out. Rinse, rinse and rinse again to get the vinegar and crap out. As an alternative you can buy various over the counter acid type cooling systems flushes. Follow directions on the bottle...
Refill with a good low silicate diesel rated antifreeze and add a bottle of DCA4 coolant conditioner. That should be available through most any equipment dealer, truck parts dealer, Cummins( DCA4 is a FleetGuard product), etc.

Engine oil filter will be the '300 Dual'... basically a Motorcraft FL1A.
Hydraulic filter should be (I think from memory) D5NN B486-EA

Rod

 

[Ultradog MN]

I never did learn about all those serial numbers.
If it is a 3600 it is a 3600 no matter where it was built. Best repair manual for your buck is a I&T FO 41 manual. About a hundred pages. Around $30. This site sells them.
Don't forget to check the oil in the steering box. And if it has PS I would replace the PS filter in the reservoir.
That is a very good tractor.

 

[souNdguy]

ditto what rod said.. just because you have a basildon sn.. don't mean much for the basics of the rest of the tractor.. get a new dealer..

soundguy

 

[eco-logic]

Here are some photos

 

[eco-logic]

More photos. If you need another view just ask. I have more.

Thanks,

Hiram

 

[RodinNS]

Pictures, as always, are worth a thousand words.
You have a mutt.
The tractor is, or was a 3600 judging by the back half. However... the engine is from a thousand series tractor, and an early one at that. It's probably a 3000 engine but you'd need to get the engine model number off the oil pan rail on (I think) the right side. To be sure check both the left and right pan rails.
It's an early style engine because it had a can type oil filter and the hex plug over the oil pump drive shaft.
I'm guessing that this tractor has no tach either?

The front clip doesn't really look right either but that may just be the paint. If it's got the 3600 setup I think it should have the headlights in the grill...
That's small potatoes really... but it might be nice to sort out what engine you have there in your 3600 chassis.

Rod

 

[Ultradog MN]

Rod you are spot on. Tractor is/was a 3600 judging by hyd pump and extra bolt lugs mid way on the lower sides of the tranny. Also has dual draft/position controls though something looks odd about the handles. Engine is an early 3000 engine as the oil filter has been changed plus note the top cover of the oil pump shaft. No oil fill in timing cover though that is NBD.
Front axle is very late 3000/3600 due to the radius rods connecting to the axle knees rather than the center axle. I wonder what ate away at right radius rod??
Must be English or Belgian due to hand brake.
Might have been 10 series with headlights in the grill as I think 3600 had headlights on rear fenders. Would like to see pics of his fenders. The tractor has no tach for sure.
As you said earlier if the dealer can't find parts or info for that tractor is time to find a different dealer.

 

[eco-logic]

What is a tach?

Now I am more confused as to what manual to buy and what kind of tractor I bought. Do I have to buy two different manuals, one for 3000 series and another for 3600? I will post more pictures of the tractor.

The handles of the hydraulics next to the seat are not original, the last owner made those handles in a machine shop. Please continue with your opinions about the tractor. As I post before this is my first tractor and I want to learn as much as possible.

Hiram

 

[eco-logic]

More photos for the job.

Thanks,

Hiram

 

[Ultradog MN]

A tach is when your move your lines towards the enemy's lines. wink
Look at your guage cluster/speedometer. I'll bet the rpm needle does not move when the engine is running. Nose cone and fenders are 3600 though the grill is home made - nicely done though.
Just buy the manual for the 3600 as that is what you have. You have a 3000 engine but the 3000/3600 engines are identical for all intents and purposes.
While you are changing fluids and filters go ahead and replace the two fuel filters. Who knows how long it's been.
It does grieve me to see EVERYTHING painted on a tractor like that. Hoses, fan belt injector pump etc, etc.
I just noticed you are missing the power steering pump. I wonder why he would have left the steering cylinders on it. Makes it harder to steer.

 

[RodinNS]

I'd buy the OEM manuals for the 3600 as the repair procedures and basic information are the same HOWEVER... I'd also buy an I&T manual for the 3000 if I ever planed on doing engine work. I beleive you'll find that some torque specs, probably the fuel timing and quite possibly the injector cracking pressure specs are different. Mabey not enough to matter... but I think I'd have it anyway as a reference.

Rod

 

[eco-logic]

Thanks to Ultradog and RodIn. I will be buying the manuals online today. It will take couple of days to arrive.

I need to put transmission oil and you said that half a 5 gallon bucket is okay. The tractor does not have dipstick or level stick. What happens if I put too much or less than the right quantity.

The same with the hydraulics. It does not have dipstick or level stick. I think this tractor have the differential and hydraulics using and sharing the same oil. You said that one full bucket is the quantity. Do I have to do some priming to the hydraulic filter? How much oil I put in the hydraulic filter? Does it do self priming? What happens if I put much more or less of the hydraulics oil? You talk about a reservoir tank, where it is? The only place to fill the hydraulic oil is at the back of the tractor in the differential top, as the photo shows. Is the only place where you can open and fill.Is that the place to fill for the hydraulic oil.

What hydraulic/tran oil you prefer:
Coastal 303
Coastal Multitrac
Castrol UTF

Thanks for helping,

Hiram

 

[RickB]

That hand brake is unlike any I have seen. The Basildon/Antwerp hand brake works through the LH access cover and controls a brake on a right angle drive from the pinion shaft.

 

[Tom in TN]

Hiram,

I don't have a Ford 3600 - I have a Ford 2000, so there's some chance I might be wrong about this, but I doubt it. Concerning the lubricant levels - obviously the motor oil will be gauged on the dipstick going into the pan.

The other levels will be gauged by removing small, square-headed plugs on the side of the transmission and the differential. You'll fill the chambers until the lubricant runs out of the small plugs and that will indicate that you have the right amount of lubricant in the chambers.

When you get your manuals, they'll probably show where the plugs are located. The manual will also show what the capacities of lubricants will be, but that assumes that the transmission and differential are empty. If you have any oil in them, you'll want to be sure to find the plugs and only put enough oil in to get to that level.

Good luck with your tractor. I hope that you have some fun with it.

Tom in TN

 

[RodinNS]

If there's no dipsticks then there has to be level plugs. Those are probably on the right hand side about the level of the footboards. Should be either a square head or an allen head plug. DO NOT remove any bolts (hex heads) in the housing as certain bolts have pins on the end retaining parts inside.
Just find the plugs, park the tractor on a level spot and fill with oil until it runs out the level hols. I often overfill the hydraulics a bit... but you probably don't want to go too far. If the axle seals leak they'll wet the brake shoes and make more work for you... so just filling to the level plug is sufficient.
I don't know anything about thsoe particular oils you mention but the 303 is probably a knockoff of JD 303 which should be OK.
It needs to mee NH's 134D specs.

Walmart (and various others) sell TDH which more often than not will meet the spec. You can also use Deere Hy-Guard, Kubota UDT, PermaTran, Esso Hydraul 56 and various others.

Rod

 

[Ultradog MN]

And why is the left tire turned backwards?

 

[karl f]

[i:654c4848f0]It does grieve me to see EVERYTHING painted on a tractor like that. Hoses, fan belt injector pump etc, etc.
[/i:654c4848f0]
that"s a factory paint job for the 60s and 70s on a lot of makes, and normal for Belarus in the 90s.

karl f