Ford electrical wiring

[Edward1993]

Hello I have 1948 ford 8n I looked at diagrams to hook up 12 volt conversion tractor starts fine but will not charge I notice when I rev it up amp guage flicks and then back to zero

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 17:57:24 01/22/20) Hello I have 1948 ford 8n I looked at diagrams to hook up 12 volt conversion tractor starts fine but will not charge I notice when I rev it up amp guage flicks and then back to zero

o crystal ball here, so I have no idea how it is wired????????????????

 

[Edward1993]

it is a 1 wire alt and it is wire to the positive post on amp giage and I have the solenoid/battery wired to the negative post on amp guage. The ignition is wired to negative post on amp guage and coil is wired to ignition switch. It get fire to plugs fine just power back very confused

 

[Colin King]

Have you recently completed a 12v conversion? Or are you thinking of doing a 12v conversion because you think the charging system is not working, but are still using 6v?

Have you checked the charge at the battery while the engine is running? What do you read? If you use a digital multimeter, your numbers will jump around quite a bit. Grab your reading from the high number that you see. What charge do you have on the battery when the engine is shut off?

Colin

 

[Edward1993]

I have done a 12v conversion but not tested that I'll have to check. Any idea on volts when running where I need to be ?

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 18:38:14 01/22/20) I have done a 12v conversion but not tested that I'll have to check. Any idea on volts when running where I need to be ?

t may be just fine, as if battery fully charged, the alt will only replace the start up draw & then stop charging, so as to not overcharge battery. Fully charged, and sitting idle for 10-15 minutes, a good batt will read around 12.6 to 12.6 volts and when charging, ideal is 14.2 to 14.6, but acceptable range is 13.5 to 15.2
Digital voltmeter will likely go nuts while charging.

 

[Colin King]

A charged 12v battery, with engine off, should read just under 13 volts, if the battery is in good condition. With the engine running, it should read 13-14 volts.

Colin

 

[Edward1993]

ok thanks will check this out and give info

 

[Edward1993]

so i may just need to run it and get battery down and see if it kicks the power from alt to amp to battery.

 

[R Geiger]

If you just run i the battery will stay charged, if battery goes down then it is not charging. mine does what JMOR said, short time charging after a start then it will read zero.

 

[Edward1993]

ok males sense I'll check it out and get back with info later thanks everyone

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

Don't assume because you have a 12V battery that it has been switched over to correct wiring. Most electrical issues are due to incorrect/mucked up wiring, regardless
if 6V or 12V. Forget model year "48", means nothing, what matters is if it is a front mount distributor; if generator and VR are removed and 12V alternator and battery
now installed correctly, if coil is a 6V or a 12V; if OEM Ballast Resistor installed; if 1-OHM in-line ceramic resistor in circuit if a 6V coil is used with a 12V
setup, and the WIRING IS ALL CORRECT. The Ford N Tractor Front Mount Distributor Timing is set a certain way. Get it off 180 degrees will cause it to bust and render
scrap. Front Mount must use the OEM ballast resistor in the circuit in both 6B and 12V setups.

FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR ?WHEN INSTALLED WRONG:

FORD OEM BALLAST RESISTOR -USED ONLY WITH FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR:

HELP: The LH resistor Terminal Post connects to the COIL Stud Terminal Post as you face the back off dash. OEM Wiring is RED.

FORD 8N TRACTOR EARLY OEM DASH PANEL WIRING, RESTORED:

EXTERNAL 1-OHM CERAMIC RESISTOR - USED ON FRONT MOUNT ONLY AND
ONLY IF COIL IS 6V:

FORD TRACTOR AMMETERS ? LEFT -OEM INDUCTION/LOOP STYLE; RIGHT ?AFTERMARKET SCREW TERMINAL TYPE:

CORRECT FORD 8N ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS - 6V & 12V:

*PICTOGRAM courtesy of JMOR


[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25"
colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">

<font color="#FFFFFF" size="3">*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*</font>​

</td></tr><tr><td>

</td><td>

</td></tr></table>

 

[SEArk]

Tim--I believe your third wiring diagram (FORD 8N with one wire alternator) would not show discharge from lights. Alternator wire needs to go to junction block and 12v positive from solenoid through ammeter? will show charge but not discharge from lights. others are correct.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 20:47:02 01/30/20) Tim--I believe your third wiring diagram (FORD 8N with one wire alternator) would not show discharge from lights. Alternator wire needs to go to junction block and 12v positive from solenoid through ammeter? will show charge but not discharge from lights. others are correct.

ou know that with internet, many things show up that are incorrect. I , JMOR, created many diagrams at various people's request and this one was to mimic the one wire conversion diagrams included in some of the Chinese kits. It is as you note, not a "net" reading ammeter connection. I do not like it, but it is exactly what was requested at the time. Later,the requester asked for a revision, to "net" reading ammeter, which I did provide. I wish the latter were propagated, but once out there, it is forever in this day in time.

 

[Edward1993]

(quoted from post at 02:28:04 01/31/20)

(quoted from post at 20:47:02 01/30/20) Tim--I believe your third wiring diagram (FORD 8N with one wire alternator) would not show discharge from lights. Alternator wire needs to go to junction block and 12v positive from solenoid through ammeter? will show charge but not discharge from lights. others are correct.

ou know that with internet, many things show up that are incorrect. I , JMOR, created many diagrams at various people's request and this one was to mimic the one wire conversion diagrams included in some of the Chinese kits. It is as you note, not a "net" reading ammeter connection. I do not like it, but it is exactly what was requested at the time. Later,the requester asked for a revision, to "net" reading ammeter, which I did provide. I wish the latter were propagated, but once out there, it is forever in this day in time.

ok so I tested battery and its 12.6v not running I metered from altenator to amp guage while running 18-20v amp guage to battery 18-20v but the guage flickers and goes slightly to the negative on amp guage. I have alt to the positive post on amp guage and battery on the negative post on amp guage. Guage is brand new. Front mount distributor and no ligts

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 18:57:32 02/01/20)

(quoted from post at 02:28:04 01/31/20)

(quoted from post at 20:47:02 01/30/20) Tim--I believe your third wiring diagram (FORD 8N with one wire alternator) would not show discharge from lights. Alternator wire needs to go to junction block and 12v positive from solenoid through ammeter? will show charge but not discharge from lights. others are correct.

ou know that with internet, many things show up that are incorrect. I , JMOR, created many diagrams at various people's request and this one was to mimic the one wire conversion diagrams included in some of the Chinese kits. It is as you note, not a "net" reading ammeter connection. I do not like it, but it is exactly what was requested at the time. Later,the requester asked for a revision, to "net" reading ammeter, which I did provide. I wish the latter were propagated, but once out there, it is forever in this day in time.

ok so I tested battery and its 12.6v not running I metered from altenator to amp guage while running 18-20v amp guage to battery 18-20v but the guage flickers and goes slightly to the negative on amp guage. I have alt to the positive post on amp guage and battery on the negative post on amp guage. Guage is brand new. Front mount distributor and no ligts

There should be virtually zero volts from ammeter to alternator output stud,under any conditions. Bad connection or maybe wires don't attach where you think they do?