Ford Jubilee End play

[JJUK]

Hello all. So I recently replaced the left side pinion bearing and have put everything back together. Used all the same shims that came off. So now its all back together with wheels on and on the ground I can go up to the tire and grab it and it rocks back and forth and clinks inside. So I havent measured the end play tolerance yet but just curious to see if you should be able to Rock the wheel at all? Or should it be pretty tight

 

[William Fissell]

Should not be able to rock the wheel. On my Jubilee, the splined hub that connected the wheel to the drive axle (part 8N1171 I think) was all wallered out and you could rock the wheel a lot until I replaced them. I think this is common.

Hub nut torque = 450 foot pounds!

Bill

 

[JJUK]

Thanks for the reply! I dont think the hub is bad it looks good
and its like slight bearing play it sounds like. I can hear the axle
shaft inside the diff tapping when I rock the wheel

 

[William Fissell]

Your ears are better than mine! Id still bet on the hub. They look fine but arent. I cannot imagine how you have the half shaft jumping around in there enough to hear it. Def tell us what you find.

I rebuilt my Jube rear end about 15 years ago - peculiarly the tractor ran and drove, but not in reverse. It was the big gear in the differential and the basket was cracked. there was metal shards all over inside. I have no idea how it was still able to move but move it did. It was a nightmare but I got a used gear and put it all back and it was still going strong 10 years later when I sold it.

 

[Hobo,NC]

With all that leverage yes it may have a little clunk to it. It should have a little clearance at the wheel bearings and none at the hub to axle.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 21:25:16 10/16/22)
With all that leverage yes it may have a little clunk to it. It should have a little clearance at the wheel bearings and none at the hub to axle.

0-4

 

[showcrop]

My 971 has always had a little clunk. 22 years though only 1500 hours.

 

[Two0aks]

We can only presume you installed shims where they belong, outboard of the brake backing plate ?

And you say you haven't measured end play yet. Remove wheels and brake drum and see. should only be a few thousands.

Shims only dictate closeness of shaft ends to each other, I don't think they are relative to tightness of bearing and retainer, but can't remember. Been awhile since I had my axles out. Most important that shaft ends don't touch in Diff.

When I got mine the RH hub nut had come off and hub damaged but axle splines OK. Replaced RH hub.

Side note: Curious what oil you put in Diff ?

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 10:59:26 10/17/22) We can only presume you installed shims where they belong, outboard of the brake backing plate ?

And you say you haven't measured end play yet. Remove wheels and brake drum and see. should only be a few thousands.

Shims only dictate closeness of shaft ends to each other, I don't think they are relative to tightness of bearing and retainer, but can't remember. Been awhile since I had my axles out. Most important that shaft ends don't touch in Diff.

When I got mine the RH hub nut had come off and hub damaged but axle splines OK. Replaced RH hub.

Side note: Curious what oil you put in Diff ?

ou are near the ball park, Oaks.

 

[JJUK]

I put one shim behind the backing plate against the trumpet
then put back the others on the retainer thats how they came
off

 

[Sean in PA]

(quoted from post at 13:26:41 10/17/22) I put one shim behind the backing plate against the trumpet
then put back the others on the retainer thats how they came
off

But the new bearing that you installed may not have been exactly the same dimensions as the one that it replaced. If all of the parts were exactly the same size every time you replaced one, then shims would not be necessary. Follow the procedure in the Service manual for re-shimming until the end play is correct.

 

[jimtrs]

(quoted from post at 13:26:41 10/17/22) I put one shim behind the backing plate against the trumpet then put back the others on the retainer thats how they came off

Shimming either side of the backing plate accomplishes the same thing, moving the bearing retainer out.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Yep and the inner shim would act as a seal/gasket.

 

[Two0aks]

If he didn't attend to replace the inner seal inside the tube,8N-4233-A1, gaskets & shims will do little to keep oil from not only oiling the bearing, but oiling the brake shoes as well. Late 8n & NAA have grease packed wheel bearings with seal to keep the grease in and dirt out. Rusted bearing likely due to negligence.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 14:05:00 10/18/22) If he didn't attend to replace the inner seal inside the tube,8N-4233-A1, gaskets & shims will do little to keep oil from not only oiling the bearing, but oiling the brake shoes as well. Late 8n & NAA have grease packed wheel bearings with seal to keep the grease in and dirt out. Rusted bearing likely due to negligence.

ut two 8Ns are too old to have the trumpets & axles to use the inner seal, but neither oil their brakes.....just got to do them correctly.

 

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 00:05:00 10/19/22) If he didn't attend to replace the inner seal inside the tube,8N-4233-A1, gaskets & shims will do little to keep oil from not only oiling the bearing, but oiling the brake shoes as well. Late 8n & NAA have grease packed wheel bearings with seal to keep the grease in and dirt out. Rusted bearing likely due to negligence.

10-4, they should keep oil in and contamination out : )

 

[Two0aks]

Good deal JMOR. If this OP does all according to FO19 and shims proper he should not have to worry.

Mine still had trumpet inner leather seals, bearing retainer seal, and seal assy outboard of the brake anchor plate,,,and oil mess. I replaced all three and was very careful reinstalling axles.

Thanks for your input

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 21:13:30 10/18/22) Good deal JMOR. If this OP does all according to FO19 and shims proper he should not have to worry.

Mine still had trumpet inner leather seals, bearing retainer seal, and seal assy outboard of the brake anchor plate,,,and oil mess. I replaced all three and was very careful reinstalling axles.

Thanks for your input

trumpet inner leather seals, bearing retainer seal, and seal assy outboard of the brake anchor plate,," Your naming and identification is not recognized. Sorry.

 

[Two0aks]

Axle seal, INNER pair. 2"x 2.754" 8N4233A
Axle seal, OUTER pair. 2.875" x 3.750" D5NN4115A
Rear axle OUTER RETAINER w/seal & gasket. A8NN4248A

Pretty sure NAA don't require outer retainer, This site lists them for 8N. Mine came with one, and not knowing better back in 2012 I bought two new and put em on. So three seals on each side.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 12:38:14 10/19/22) Axle seal, INNER pair. 2"x 2.754" 8N4233A
Axle seal, OUTER pair. 2.875" x 3.750" D5NN4115A
Rear axle OUTER RETAINER w/seal & gasket. A8NN4248A

Pretty sure NAA don't require outer retainer, This site lists them for 8N. Mine came with one, and not knowing better back in 2012 I bought two new and put em on. So three seals on each side.

ounds like you know by now that the early bearing retainer has no machined area for seal D5NN4115A, thus A8NN4248A is used AND that the later bearing retainer is machined to accept D5NN4115A, where A8NN4248A is not used.
But you had the later bearing retainer, so used the seal installed in it in addition to the earlier separate seal A8NN4248A. Whatever suits.

 

[Two0aks]

Sorry to hijack the OP end play thread. Still would like to know what he did to fix.

JMOR. I mostly stumble around in the dark except for rays of light from you and others on this site. Heading outside now with your pictogram for my Jube wiring. New harness same as old except for Two post Amp gauge I'll need to rob a jumper from old harness.