Ford Jubilee Starting troubles

[Cerberus]

I've begun work on my father's Ford Jubilee after his death and I've run into a couple of issues. This would be my first time doing maintenance on an engine of this proportion so forgive me if I make a few errors. Previous to it sitting for a few years it was in perfectly operational condition, but as previously mentioned it sat and acquired a plethora of issues. The most prevalent of which being that when the engine is being started it cranks for an indefinite amount of time and never seems to start. I have gotten it running by shocking the post on the starter and when it does run it does so quite well. It appears that after about 30 seconds of cranking the engine the battery starts to slow down and eventually the turning stops altogether. From what I understand it should start as soon as the button is pressed. I have replaced the solenoid and battery, cleaned all wire contacts, and verified the 12 volt conversion was done properly. I am at a loss as to what is causing this problem, possibly I need to clean out the starter, and if so how? Also, if anyone can tell me what kind of wires an Ultima 01-0039 alternator requires to self excite that would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[Husker 50 8n]

First find a way to check the spark when you first try to start the tractor. You can purchase a device at an auto parts store that
will connect to your spark plug wire and your spark plug but allow you to see if you have spark on that cylinder. That will help
determine if you have an electrical/wiring issue or a carb/fuel issue. Possibly you just need to choke the tractor more when you
first push the starter button. Anyone that started driving vehicles made after 1987-88 may not be familiar with a choke as fuel
injected motors don't need/have a choke and manual chokes disappeared long ago but are common on older gas burning tractors. A
choke will make the fuel mixture a little richer leading to easier starting especially when cold. Your choke button/rod is just to
the left of the starter button on a jubilee. Should be a 3/4" diameter button connected to a small rod leading to the carb. Pull
the choke out while you push the starter button and let it back in when the motor fires. Maybe you already know this process, if
yes ignore most of what I wrote. But you say it will eventually start and run quite well but require 30 seconds or more of starter
spinning the motor makes me wonder if you're using the choke or if it is connected. The jubilee should start quickly especially
with a 12 volt system spinning the motor.

 

[BearGap]

Another problem that can show up is a flooded carburetor. The float valve inside can often leaks and slowly collect gas from the gravity fed tank and then it takes quite a long time to get the engine started, as I know from experience with my Jubilee. A simple solution is to cut the gas off using the valve on the sediment bowl when shutting the tractor off for longer than a few minutes. Doing that as a matter of habit insures mine starts right away, using the choke in cooler weather.

 

[showcrop]

Does "shocking the post on the starter" mean that you are boosting it from another vehicle or with a booster pack? In addition to checking for spark as Husker told you, You can also determine if you are getting gas to the cylinders by removing a spark plug and checking for gas on it. The plug should be slightly wet with gas if it has not started after only three seconds of cranking with the choke closed. It is normal for gas to run out of the carburetor air intake if it doesn't start after five seconds of cranking.

 

[Cerberus]

By shocking the post I mean that I take wire that is normally screwed on to the starter and touch it a few times to the post. This is why I am so confused, the tractor is starting using it's own power and electrical system, but for whatever reason when I screw the wire back on the engine it never starts up again. As for the carburetor I have not had a chance to clean it just yet, but I shall keep you all posted.

 

[showcrop]

The starting after shocking is just coincidence. Don't worry about exciting the alternator or cleaning the carburetor until you have covered the basics already suggested. Are you recharging the battery between tries? How many revolutions per second is the starter cranking the motor?

 

[Cerberus]

Your wisdom is quite exceptional! When I checked the spark plugs it turns out they are no longer receiving fuel. I am not sure what the issue is though, the fuel lines and carburetor are both clean. I have on the other hand identified that the air intake for the carburetor is very very dirty. I am going to clean it of course, but for curiosities sake, would it's dirtiness have had any affect the fuel getting to the spark plugs?

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 19:04:16 08/27/20) Your wisdom is quite exceptional! When I checked the spark plugs it turns out they are no longer receiving fuel. I am not sure what the issue is though, the fuel lines and carburetor are both clean. I have on the other hand identified that the air intake for the carburetor is very very dirty. I am going to clean it of course, but for curiosities sake, would it's dirtiness have had any affect the fuel getting to the spark plugs?

By carburetor air intake I assume that you are referring to the air cleaner. The answer is yes, a dirty air cleaner is like having your choke applied, so the suction of gas is greater. How much are you choking it? What do you mean by " the fuel lines and carburetor are clean?

 

[Cerberus]

I've cleaned out the air cleaner, sediment bowl, fuel line, and even the carburetor for redundancy. I've checked and there is fuel getting into the carburetor and it does not appear to be flooded when I attempt starting the engine. Sadly, there still appears to be no fuel entering the engine, should I rebuild the carburetor and if so are there any things that could cause me grief?

 

[showcrop]

What do you mean by "cleaned out the air cleaner, sediment bowl, fuel line, and even the carburetor?"

 

[Cerberus]

I'm sorry, I do not know the proper terminology for the parts I cleaned if that is what you are asking. If not, by cleaning them out I mean that I removed general dirt and debris from them and flushed them with carburetor cleaner. I hope that helps!

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 15:19:04 08/29/20) I'm sorry, I do not know the proper terminology for the parts I cleaned if that is what you are asking. If not, by cleaning them out I mean that I removed general dirt and debris from them and flushed them with carburetor cleaner. I hope that helps!

Did you remove the adjusting screws and run wires through the passages? Did you test for flow from the tank out the bottom of the carb?

 

[Cerberus]

Yes I did in fact remove the adjusting screws and cleaned the passage out with a wire. Sadly the screw on the bottom of the carburetor is stuck and I'm afraid to take a torch to it to loosen it up. I've tried liquid wrench, Nutcracker, and just about the rest of the chemicals that I have for that purpose. Is it okay to take a torch to the bolt if I ensure no gas is present in the carburetor?

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 16:07:25 08/29/20) Yes I did in fact remove the adjusting screws and cleaned the passage out with a wire. Sadly the screw on the bottom of the carburetor is stuck and I'm afraid to take a torch to it to loosen it up. I've tried liquid wrench, Nutcracker, and just about the rest of the chemicals that I have for that purpose. Is it okay to take a torch to the bolt if I ensure no gas is present in the carburetor?

I am pretty sure that the drain plug is simply a 1/8 pipe thread plug which you can get at any hardware store. It should be a hex head that takes a 7/16 wrench. I will check one later today to make sure.

 

[showcrop]

I checked a carburetor from the shelf and it is 1/8 pipe thread. So yes you could try heating it but I wouldn't. A carburetor is different from a cast iron housing. I would get a tap and then carefully get a 1/8 drill bit started in the center of the plug, then drill it out with a bit just under the 1/8 tap. You should be able to pick the pieces of thread out with a pic, and then dress it up with the tap. It is unlikely that you will find a cast iron plug at your local hardware but brass will work just a as well.

 

[rew1953]

My 53 NAA starts in 1-2 revolutions with 12 volt. The upflow carbs are notorious for flooding if any dirt gets to the float valve. You can check for suction to the cylinders by removing the rubber joint at the carb intake and placing your hand over the inlet. Should feel good suck. If that is okay, you have a fuel delivery problem in the carb or the small ports in the fuel shut off valve at the tank. There is a fine screen on the carb inlet fitting that may be plugged. I added a canister fuel filter to the gas line before the carb inlet and it pretty much cured hard starting on mine.

 

[showcrop]

Cerberus, once you have the plug out you next step will be to test your whole fuel delivery system from tank to float bowl at one time, by holding a container under the drain hole, open the gas shut-off under the tank and see how much gas flows. The Yesterday's tractors approved flow rate for this YT widely recommended test is a pint in two minutes.