ford jubliee

[cthanse]

my ford jubilee, will start, after much cranking, and run for about 30 sec', then quits,. I've replaced plugs, condenser, wires, coil , cleaned&adjusted carb'checked static timing. nothing has helped, anyone have any ideas? thanks ,ct hanse

 

[Robert (ID)]

You did not say Points?? have you cleaned or replaced them??

 

[michford]

Gas engines need three things to run, air, fuel, and spark. Pull the drain plug out of the bottom of your carb and see what you get for fuel flowing out. Could be your screens are plugged with debris and you are not getting enough fuel flow.

 

[JMOR]

keep in mind that if you were to fill carb bowl to normal level, removed the gas tank, started engine, it will still run for about two minutes on that bowl of gas!
30 seconds is a curious number?

 

[cthanse]

points were replaced and adjusted , thanks for your reply

 

[cthanse]

i'll try that , thanks for your input

 

[cthanse]

carb bowl seems to be full, appericate your info'

 

[Royse]

I would double check the firing order. 1-2-4-3 CW
Also, make sure the #1 wire is on the cap in the right place.
Roll the engine by hand until #1 cylinder is on top dead center on
compression stroke, then look to see where the rotor is pointed.
It may not be where the book says it should be, and that's fine, as long
as it points to one of the towers and you put the #1 wire on that tower.

 

[Jim L WA]

C.T. It sounds like you only pulled the top off the carbruater and looked inside. You have to do what Michford said. Remove the drain plug at the bottom of the carbruater and see if you can fill a pint jar in 2 to 3 minutes. Then you need to see if you have a good strong spark. Pull the coil wire from the distributor cap and hold it a good 1/4 inch from a clean spot on the block and with the key on, crank the engine. If it passes these two tests, come back and we can go from there.

 

[cthanse]

I took carb off complety & cleaned with carb ' cleaner & comp' air' thanks for your reply, ct hanse

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 18:20:12 11/13/19) I took carb off complety & cleaned with carb ' cleaner & comp' air' thanks for your reply, ct hanse

ct, you really should try doing as the guys are suggesting.

 

[cthanse]

I have done all of these suggestions, cthanse

 

[Indiana Ken]

You did not say how the tractor run before you made all the changes. Or, if there is any change in how the tractor starts and runs now versus before the changes were made...? But for now lets assume everything you did was completed correctly and the tractor run the same before as it does now. In that case, the problem MUST lie with a component other than what you checked and or replaced.

Ignition switches (key switch) have been known to cause problems similar to what you describe. You can jumper across the switch to take it out of the circuit and see if the problem goes away. Or, better yet cut the coil wire (runs from the center of the coil to the center of the distributor) insert the two ends into a section of clear plastic tubing (1/4" ID). Tape or other wise secure the wire to maintain a 1/8" to 1/4" gap between the ends of the coil wire inside the tubing. Observe the gap - you should see a spark jump the gap during cranking, during engine running and during the time the engine begins to stall until the engine stops turning. Once the engine stops turning, immediately attempt to start the engine again and verify you have spark. This checks the entire system and verifies you have spark during the cranking and stalling periods.

Now to the fuel system. Turn off the fuel at the tank and remove the 1/4" pipe plug in the bottom of the carburetor bowl. Replace it with a brass fitting to accept a length of 1/4" ID clear plastic tubing. Run the tubing along the outside of the carburetor and tie it off to hold the open end at least 6" above the carburetor, leave the end of the tube open. Now turn on the fuel at the tank. The fuel will rise in the tube and stop at the same level as the fuel inside the carburetor fuel bowl. Mark the level with a sharpie marker or other marker. This level should not change significantly during cranking, running, stalling or after the engine has stalled and stopped turning. A significant change in level indicates a fuel delivery problem.

 

[showcrop]

(quoted from post at 19:45:44 11/14/19)
You did not say how the tractor run before you made all the changes. Or, if there is any change in how the tractor starts and runs now versus before the changes were made...? But for now lets assume everything you did was completed correctly and the tractor run the same before as it does now. In that case, the problem MUST lie with a component other than what you checked and or replaced.

Ignition switches (key switch) have been known to cause problems similar to what you describe. You can jumper across the switch to take it out of the circuit and see if the problem goes away. Or, better yet cut the coil wire (runs from the center of the coil to the center of the distributor) insert the two ends into a section of clear plastic tubing (1/4" ID). Tape or other wise secure the wire to maintain a 1/8" to 1/4" gap between the ends of the coil wire inside the tubing. Observe the gap - you should see a spark jump the gap during cranking, during engine running and during the time the engine begins to stall until the engine stops turning. Once the engine stops turning, immediately attempt to start the engine again and verify you have spark. This checks the entire system and verifies you have spark during the cranking and stalling periods.

Now to the fuel system. Turn off the fuel at the tank and remove the 1/4" pipe plug in the bottom of the carburetor bowl. Replace it with a brass fitting to accept a length of 1/4" ID clear plastic tubing. Run the tubing along the outside of the carburetor and tie it off to hold the open end at least 6" above the carburetor, leave the end of the tube open. Now turn on the fuel at the tank. The fuel will rise in the tube and stop at the same level as the fuel inside the carburetor fuel bowl. Mark the level with a sharpie marker or other marker. This level should not change significantly during cranking, running, stalling or after the engine has stalled and stopped turning. A significant change in level indicates a fuel delivery problem.

Ken, While the procedure that you describe is good for checking float bowl level, The test that Mich and Jim have suggested would be much easier and faster since it is unlikely that CT has the barbed fitting on hand

 

[cthanse]

thanks for your reply , ct hanse

 

[cthanse]

appericate your help with my problem, will try your ideas

 

[cthanse]

will do what you say, thanks ct hanse