Ford NAA Distributor/Spark problems

[JClarke]

Hello. Apologies if a similar thread like this exists, but I couldn't find exactly what I was looking for. I purchased a Ford NAA/Jubilee from an auction sale for my son's Christmas present. It was previously converted to 12 volt but not currently running. We've been chasing issues with it and have rebuilt carb, cleaned fuel system, new wiring, etc. Replaced most of the components of the distributor/spark system but can't get it to run. Based on the shotty job from previous owner I'm questioning the timing of everything as I only replaced the parts the way they had it. I'm somewhat confident on most things mechanical but question my ability to get this timed right. (If that's truly the problem). I did not replace the coil and I think I'm now regretting that as I can't seem to get more than .9 ohms via a multimeter. But I did see spark out of the spark plugs, so not sure if it's a coil, spark or timing issues. The previous owner had the timing/fly wheel inspection cover removed and what I can see on the flywheel is rust covered....so undertaking to adjust the timing and removal of distribute intimidates me and hoping I can solve the problems without going that far.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Don't remove the distributor yet. Rather, find the timing mark on the flywheel. Remove the spark plugs to make it easy to crank the engine. Make sure that #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke.by putting your thumb on the spark plug hole and bump the starter until you feel the pressure on your thumb. Next bump the starter until you see the timing mark and align the mark with on the flywheel with the reference mark. You are now in a position to set the timing statically. Take a paper clip or a bent wire and put it in the #1 spark plug boot. Hold it near a good ground being careful not to touch the clip/wire. Loosen the hold down bolt on the distributor. Turn on the ignition. Now slowly rotate the distributor back and forth in increasing increments until you hear the spark snap. At the point the spark snaps you are statically timed. Unless the distributor s severely out of time, you should not have to rotate back and forth in more than a few degrees. Do it several times until you are confident you have it timed and tighten the hold down bolt. If the rest of the ignition system is in good condition, and the carb is set correctly the engine should start and run. Using a timing light, check the timing and adjust if required. Then accelerate the engine and make sure the timing advances. This will assure you that the advance system is working.

 

[Eman85]

Start with basics, do a compression test a spark test and a fuel flow test.

 

[JClarke]

Don't remove the distributor yet. Rather, find the timing mark on the flywheel. Remove the spark plugs to make it easy to crank the engine. Make sure that #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke.by putting your thumb on the spark plug hole and bump the starter until you feel the pressure on your thumb. Next bump the starter until you see the timing mark and align the mark with on the flywheel with the reference mark. You are now in a position to set the timing statically. Take a paper clip or a bent wire and put it in the #1 spark plug boot. Hold it near a good ground being careful not to touch the clip/wire. Loosen the hold down bolt on the distributor. Turn on the ignition. Now slowly rotate the distributor back and forth in increasing increments until you hear the spark snap. At the point the spark snaps you are statically timed. Unless the distributor s severely out of time, you should not have to rotate back and forth in more than a few degrees. Do it several times until you are confident you have it timed and tighten the hold down bolt. If the rest of the ignition system is in good condition, and the carb is set correctly the engine should start and run. Using a timing light, check the timing and adjust if required. Then accelerate the engine and make sure the timing advances. This will assure you that the advance system is working.

Thanks for info. A couple dumb guy questions though.
1. When you say the timing mark and align the mark with on the flywheel with the reference mark, what am I looking for on the fly wheel? The degree marks? What do I set it at to get to top dead center? 8 degrees for low idle?
2. When you say "slowly rotate the distributor back and forth in increasing increments until you hear the spark snap and do it several times until you are confident you have it timed" I'm literally rotating the entire distributor housing, but because it's locked in on the bottom, the motion I'm doing is rotating the cam to make it go through its motions and create spark?
3. Once I'm confident I have spark, put the distributor back together and make that spark plug #1 and then do my firing order clockwise from there?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Thanks for info. A couple dumb guy questions though.
1. When you say the timing mark and align the mark with on the flywheel with the reference mark, what am I looking for on the fly wheel? The degree marks? What do I set it at to get to top dead center? 8 degrees for low idle?
2. When you say "slowly rotate the distributor back and forth in increasing increments until you hear the spark snap and do it several times until you are confident you have it timed" I'm literally rotating the entire distributor housing, but because it's locked in on the bottom, the motion I'm doing is rotating the cam to make it go through its motions and create spark?
3. Once I'm confident I have spark, and make that spark plug #1 and then do my firing order clockwise from there?

Thanks in advance.

1.) There should be a mark that indicates Top Dead Center (TDC) and several other marks to indicate degrees. I don't have a tractor like yours so I can't be more specific. Do you have an operator's manual or service manual? If you don't have these, I'd advise you to get them as they are usefull. Factory manuals are the best.
As I stated, you have to be on the compression stroke for #1 cylinder and i told you how to find that. I don't have the specs for timing of your engine. That's in the operator's manual an/or the service manual and it is usually given in degrees before TDC (BTDC). There may be a second mark far away from the TDC mark which is the max timing advance.

2.) When you say it is locked at the bottom, I think you mean the distributor shaft doesn't move. That's correct, you move the distributor housing and the distributor point's ride on the stationary distributor cam and open and close.

3 You shouldn't have to"... put anything together...". You just have to tighten the hold down bolt to lock the distributor in position. Which way does your rotor rotate? That's what determines where the next spark plug position in the firing order is at. After you set the timing, check the point gap to make sure it is still correct. Adjust as required. Check the spark. It should be bluish white, the color of lightning. Try a start.

 

[JMOR]

Thanks for info. A couple dumb guy questions though.
1. When you say the timing mark and align the mark with on the flywheel with the reference mark, what am I looking for on the fly wheel? The degree marks? What do I set it at to get to top dead center? 8 degrees for low idle?
2. When you say "slowly rotate the distributor back and forth in increasing increments until you hear the spark snap and do it several times until you are confident you have it timed" I'm literally rotating the entire distributor housing, but because it's locked in on the bottom, the motion I'm doing is rotating the cam to make it go through its motions and create spark?
3. Once I'm confident I have spark, put the distributor back together and make that spark plug #1 and then do my firing order clockwise from there?

Thanks in advance.

Probably look about like this:

 

[JClarke]

1.) There should be a mark that indicates Top Dead Center (TDC) and several other marks to indicate degrees. I don't have a tractor like yours so I can't be more specific. Do you have an operator's manual or service manual? If you don't have these, I'd advise you to get them as they are usefull. Factory manuals are the best.
As I stated, you have to be on the compression stroke for #1 cylinder and i told you how to find that. I don't have the specs for timing of your engine. That's in the operator's manual an/or the service manual and it is usually given in degrees before TDC (BTDC). There may be a second mark far away from the TDC mark which is the max timing advance.

2.) When you say it is locked at the bottom, I think you mean the distributor shaft doesn't move. That's correct, you move the distributor housing and the distributor point's ride on the stationary distributor cam and open and close.

3 You shouldn't have to"... put anything together...". You just have to tighten the hold down bolt to lock the distributor in position. Which way does your rotor rotate? That's what determines where the next spark plug position in the firing order is at. After you set the timing, check the point gap to make sure it is still correct. Adjust as required. Check the spark. It should be bluish white, the color of lightning. Try a start.

Thanks for the help. My son and I will be trying this tonight.

 

[Jim.ME]

Thanks for the help. My son and I will be trying this tonight.

Be sure you have #1 cylinder on the compression stroke, those marks line up when it is at the end of the exhaust stroke as well.

 

[showcrop]

Hello. Apologies if a similar thread like this exists, but I couldn't find exactly what I was looking for. I purchased a Ford NAA/Jubilee from an auction sale for my son's Christmas present. It was previously converted to 12 volt but not currently running. We've been chasing issues with it and have rebuilt carb, cleaned fuel system, new wiring, etc. Replaced most of the components of the distributor/spark system but can't get it to run. Based on the shotty job from previous owner I'm questioning the timing of everything as I only replaced the parts the way they had it. I'm somewhat confident on most things mechanical but question my ability to get this timed right. (If that's truly the problem). I did not replace the coil and I think I'm now regretting that as I can't seem to get more than .9 ohms via a multimeter. But I did see spark out of the spark plugs, so not sure if it's a coil, spark or timing issues. The previous owner had the timing/fly wheel inspection cover removed and what I can see on the flywheel is rust covered....so undertaking to adjust the timing and removal of distribute intimidates me and hoping I can solve the problems without going that far.

It is nice that you cleaned the fuel system. However, for it to start you need gas to the spark plugs in a very rich mixture when cold. Is this the case.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

Hello. Apologies if a similar thread like this exists, but I couldn't find exactly what I was looking for. I purchased a Ford NAA/Jubilee from an auction sale for my son's Christmas present. It was previously converted to 12 volt but not currently running. We've been chasing issues with it and have rebuilt carb, cleaned fuel system, new wiring, etc. Replaced most of the components of the distributor/spark system but can't get it to run. Based on the shotty job from previous owner I'm questioning the timing of everything as I only replaced the parts the way they had it. I'm somewhat confident on most things mechanical but question my ability to get this timed right. (If that's truly the problem). I did not replace the coil and I think I'm now regretting that as I can't seem to get more than .9 ohms via a multimeter. But I did see spark out of the spark plugs, so not sure if it's a coil, spark or timing issues. The previous owner had the timing/fly wheel inspection cover removed and what I can see on the flywheel is rust covered....so undertaking to adjust the timing and removal of distribute intimidates me and hoping I can solve the problems without going that far.

Kudos on your new FORD NAA TRACTOR. Many long happy years ahead. First thing though for newbies is don't start yanking off parts and replacing them with new ones willy-nilly. Invest in the ESSENTIAL MANUALS and start reading them like your Bible. If you don't have a full knowledge and understanding on how your machine functions operates you are asking for trouble. Next, just because you have a 12V battery does not mean your system is wired correctly for that setup. Leave distributor alone for now. The electrical circuit and all wiring must be correct first so start with that. Once all is verified right you can now move on to the ignition system. No inspection cover tells me the PO had issues. Basic ting can be set manually with a finger and Spark Plug #1. Your OEM Owner's Manual has that info. You need a copy of that, a copy of the 39-59 MPC, the I&T F0-19 and F0-20 Service Manuals


Tim Daley (MI)