Ford NAA question

Hello, on a 1954 NAA is there a screen between the pump and reservoir for the hydraulic pump that can get clogged? I changed the hydraulic
fluid, had to put some air in the dipstick tube. Worked fine in August now it wont lift the arms. We added some oil to the pump, cycled it 10
times. The next time I went to use it few weeks later, nothing. It isnt the vane pump it is the updated hydraulic pump. Wanted to
troubleshoot before assuming the pump is bad. Thank you.
 
Do you have the OEM square pump?
The round pump is an upgrade,
My jubilee has been upgraded.
There's a plug on top to bleed the round pump.
If I can find the pic, I'll post a pic of the plug. I replaced the plug
with a pressure gauge.
This pic shows the coil and the place where the plug is located. The silver thing
cvphoto112170.jpg

Is the damper for the pressure gauge.
 
No screen, but they can lose prime either from seals on the lines or
seals on/in the pump. Finding the actual culprit can be challenging.
The line O-rings are cheapest/easiest to try replacing if you're not sure.
They will sometimes leak oil, but not always. Just suck air.
Since it's an NAA, if you choose to do that, also pressure test the
external lines. They can get dented/bent/rusted and leak on their own.
I've seen quite a few of them that have been brazed for a repair.
 
there are 2 linkages that may need to be adjusted (can find instructions on youtube). They are located under the cover to rear end, the cove is under the seat. I had the same problem, I pulled the cover, put a new seal in the cylinder and made the required adjustments. That did the trick.
 
The pressure is close to zero. It builds depending on how much you are lifting with the 3 point.
I don't remember the maximum pressure.
I guessing around 1500 to 2000.
Jubilee is in retirement.
I think the pressure was around 500 psi for grader blade.

Before I rebuilt pump. Which had a broken spring I had to bleed pump every time I used it.
 
The black gizmo with a white band is called a diode.
Old school cars bypassed the ballast resistor when starting apply the full 12v to coil.

No ignition switch on Jubilee.
No extra terminal on solenoid to apply 12v to coil while cranking.

So easy fix
Apply 12v from starter to coil using diode bypasses ballast.
The white band is the cathode so current only flows when 12v is applied to starter.

I did teach HS electronics for 31 years.

Bypassing ballast is something many leave out when converting 6v to 12v.
Untitled URL Link
 
Yesterday's Tractor Forums

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top