Ford Tractor Identification

[Eric1234]

I have had this tractor for a few years and never had any problems with it. Now that a few things are going bad I feel the need to at least identify what model of tractor it is. I have attached a few pictures. There is a stamped “841” on the flat spot next to the starter. I know it’s a Ford. Please help me identify the model. Thank you!

 

[old]

I have had this tractor for a few years and never had any problems with it. Now that a few things are going bad I feel the need to at least identify what model of tractor it is. I have attached a few pictures. There is a stamped “841” on the flat spot next to the starter. I know it’s a Ford. Please help me identify the model. Thank you!

If it is stamped 841 and then below that number is a longer number that will be the serial number. 841 say it is a Model 841 made from 1958 to 1962, it is painted wrong by the way as it should be gray and red in color. I own an 841S and the S indicates it has th factory installed Sherman Combo aux transmission

 

[Eric1234]

I appreciate your quick reply. Yes it has a longer number: 11633. Since it’s a model 841 this would be an 8n tractor. Sorry for the stupid question. I just want to make sure I understand. Thanks again.

 

[old]

I appreciate your quick reply. Yes it has a longer number: 11633. Since it’s a model 841 this would be an 8n tractor. Sorry for the stupid question. I just want to make sure I understand. Thanks again.

9N made from 1939 to 1942, 2N made from 1942 to 1947, 8N made from 1948 to 1952. Jubilee made in 1953. NAA made in 1954. In 1955 Ford came out with the 600/700/800 series which had the valve in head that the N series didn't have

SO NO and 841 isn't an 8N and about twice the HP of the 8N and has live hyds.

 

[deanostoybox]

I appreciate your quick reply. Yes it has a longer number: 11633. Since it’s a model 841 this would be an 8n tractor. Sorry for the stupid question. I just want to make sure I understand. Thanks again.

Not 8n. For model ID and history see:
Tractor Identification and Model History - Ford Fordson Collectors Association

 

[Eric1234]

My bad. Sounds like an 800 series hence the 841. I really appreciate the info. Thank you both for the information and the link.

 

[old]

My bad. Sounds like an 800 series hence the 841. I really appreciate the info. Thank you both for the information and the link.

No it is an 801 series 801 series was made from 1958 to 1962

 

[john in la]

Its a 841 built in 1960

 

[jimmyjoe]

9N made from 1939 to 1942, 2N made from 1942 to 1947, 8N made from 1948 to 1952. Jubilee made in 1953. NAA made in 1954. In 1955 Ford came out with the 600/700/800 series which had the valve in head that the N series didn't have

SO NO and 841 isn't an 8N and about twice the HP of the 8N and has live hyds.

Jubilee and NAA had valve in head.

 

[1951 8N]

Its a 841 built in 1960

It's a 1958, not a 1960.

 

[Eric1234]

Tractor not running. Have spark, carburetor adjusted correctly. Has some blow by coming from the oil when it would die. Would run for about 2 minutes then die. Timing is adjusted perfect. I’m wondering if it’s a head gasket. Did a compression test and found 60 psi on 3 of the 4 and 30 psi on #3 cylinder.

 

[old]

Tractor not running. Have spark, carburetor adjusted correctly. Has some blow by coming from the oil when it would die. Would run for about 2 minutes then die. Timing is adjusted perfect. I’m wondering if it’s a head gasket. Did a compression test and found 60 psi on 3 of the 4 and 30 psi on #3 cylinder.

Those compression number are bad news. It either is wore out or it has been sitting a long time and the rings are stuck to the pistons and those number it is not likely to run and if it does it will lack power. If it where mine I'd fill the cylinders with ATF and let it sit a week and then pull the plugs back out and spin it over and check the compression again

 

[used red MN]

Those compression number are bad news. It either is wore out or it has been sitting a long time and the rings are stuck to the pistons and those number it is not likely to run and if it does it will lack power. If it where mine I'd fill the cylinders with ATF and let it sit a week and then pull the plugs back out and spin it over and check the compression again

Hello Eric welcome to YT! You can try this if you want. This guy’s answer to many ailments is to apply ATF (automatic trans fluid) he claims it often “works for him” If you do this I would recommend getting it running again before take the compression test again ATF setting in there can loosen a lot of carbon up. This can move out of the cylinder get under the valves interfere with their operation. So starting it up and running and driving it some would help ensure everything is cleared out the valve seats. You should have some very poor compression there. While this may lower your actual power it should not make it all of a sudden a stop running. Take the drain plug out of the carb bowl what kind of gas flow do you have? This is after about 5 seconds or so to give some time for the carb bowl to empty.

 

[Eric1234]

Thank you used red MN for the reply. I am going to work on it today when I get home. I had a friend who is really good with gas engines come over and we got the carburetor cleaned up. I have really good flow, almost to the point of flooding the carb. I got a new carb needle and seat and the flooding stopped. It tries to start, but doesn't seem to have enough umph to get going. I think my next step if the ATF didn't work or it worked too well and gummed up the valves, is to open it up and put a new head gasket, etc. Kind of frustrating, but I am at a loss on what else to do to this thing. Great little tractor up until now.

 

[Eric1234]

Old, you’re a smart man! I let the ATF set there for a week, soaking. Decided today was the day either it would start or I’d rebuild the motor. I had it blow all the ATF out of the cylinders. Put the plugs in and I’ll be, the darn thing started. Runs better than it has all the years I’ve had it. I want to thank you and everyone who jumped in on this thread for your expertise and wisdom. Thank you very much.

 

[old]

Old, you’re a smart man! I let the ATF set there for a week, soaking. Decided today was the day either it would start or I’d rebuild the motor. I had it blow all the ATF out of the cylinders. Put the plugs in and I’ll be, the darn thing started. Runs better than it has all the years I’ve had it. I want to thank you and everyone who jumped in on this thread for your expertise and wisdom. Thank you very much.

Any engine that has sat more then just a few month tend to have the rings stick to the piston and that causes low compression and can also cause other problem like sticking valve. I've told people about ATF on this site pretty much since the day I joined the site and that has been over 20 years now

 

[wingnuttx]

Old. I’ve never used ATF on an engine. Just never had too I guess. I do have some in a spray bottle that I’m a firm believer for nuts & bolts etc. I like Kroil too but it’s pricey….but good stuff.

 

[old]

Old. I’ve never used ATF on an engine. Just never had too I guess. I do have some in a spray bottle that I’m a firm believer for nuts & bolts etc. I like Kroil too but it’s pricey….but good stuff.

I keep ATF in and old pumper oil can and I also have a small squeeze bottle I keep ATF in and use on house fans etc.

 

[Eric1234]

Old, you’re a smart man! I let the ATF set there for a week, soaking. Decided today was the day either it would start or I’d rebuild the motor. I had it blow all the ATF out of the cylinders. Put the plugs in and I’ll be, the darn thing started. Runs better than it has all the years I’ve had it. I want to thank you and everyone who jumped in on this thread for your expertise and wisdom. Thank you very much.

I keep ATF in and old pumper oil can and I also have a small squeeze bottle I keep ATF in and use on house fans etc.

So I broke down and decided to tear into it and replace the rod bearings, head gasket, valve cover gasket, and piston rings. I went through and cleaned the cylinders really well with a home and cleaner. It was running really well until I cracked the carburetor housing taking it off one time to clean it. I replaced the carburetor with a Zenith carb. I adjusted the bottom screw to 3.5 turns after bottoming it out. For some some reason after about 30 minutes of working on it, if I try and run it in 3rd gear it acts like it’s starving for fuel and tries to die. But if I keep it in 1st gear it does just fine. I’m kind of confused why it would do this. Any ideas? I also checked to make sure the fuel filter was full of fuel as well as the tank.

 

[used red MN]

also checked to make sure the fuel filter was full of fuel as well as the tank.

Not sure how you are checking that the fuel filter is full, setting static tells you nothing about how much your fuel system is flowing. Here is a test I wrote out for N Fords but it applies to almost all gas tractors with a gravity flow system.
I suggest you test your fuel delivery to the carb. Get a pint jar, something that will measure a pint. Open the carb bowl drain and let it drain about 5 seconds. This lets the fuel that is held in the carb bowl drain so the test is not thrown off. Then begin catching the fuel for a timed two minutes. Should fill the pint measure in those two minutes. If it does not run enough fuel out of the carb drain to fill it recheck it at the line disconnected from the carb. Here you can immediately start the test on this line. If it has good flow there it is possible that the fitting that the fuel line connects that screws into the carb has a fine screen on it that can plug. Pull it out and check it. Some models have them and some don't. If the flow is not good enough out of the line you have to figure out where it is getting blocked. It may be the screen on the outlet to the sediment bowl in the tank. Take a good flashlight and look in the bottom of the tank to check for an abnormal amount of debris in the gas The 2 minutes for a pint calculates to be 3:75 gph, this is what your tractor consumed when tested under full load. This will assure you have adequate fuel to operate the tractor under full load. You will probably never do this unless you participate in a plow day or use your tractor under some other very heavy load.
The 841 field test showed that it would use 4.2 gph under the heaviest load, but if you don’t get 3.75 you can babe certain you have a fuel delivery problem.