Fordson F(1927?)

[Frank L]

I just had the block rebuilt, boring, valve seats, valves & guides and installed bronze half bearings in the block. How important is it to get special motor oil for the engine and also the transmission/differential ? Is this something that will give me grief on a short term basis ie.( parades and occassional plow days) or on a long term basis if I were to work the tractor like farmers used to do? Tks,FL

 

[Maine Fordson]

One of the quickest ways to start a flame war here on YT is to ask about what is the "right" oil to use. (I realize that this was not your intention; you have just put a lot of time and money into an antique engine and only want what is best for it, and that is laudable.) Having said that, this is my opinion:

After you assemble the engine, add oil and belt it up to another tractor or engine and turn it for 5 minutes at low speed to work the bearings in, just to be safe.

For crankcase oil: During the break-in period, I would use standard 10W-30 or 10W-40 detergent oil (since you've re-built everything, there's no longer any need to stick with the old-style non-detergent to avoid breaking loose decades of accumulated goo). Work the tractor "like farmers used to do," plowing or dragging something *very* heavy (i.e., a chain on a huge rock or cement slab), something that will really make the old girl bark -- this will help set the new rings you've just put in. Run her that way for a couple of hours, and then change the oil (to remove any little bits of swarf and other contaminants resulting normally from the rebuilding process) and do some more hard labor. Once the break-in is complete and it's time for another oil change, I'd go with any good-grade synthetic oil (personally, I like Mobil-1, but any fully-synthetic oil will do). Synthetic oil tends to keep internal parts cleaner (i.e., doesn't gum up the way dino oil does over time) and is not subject to thermal breakdown at the same rate as natural lubricants. After this, if primary duty is parading and the occasional plowing day, change oil as your conscience dictates (after all, before you turn the crank at the start of the day you're supposed to turn the petcocks in front of the gear shifter to make sure there's enough oil in the crankcase -- use this opportunity to see how black the oil is getting to be, and change accordingly.)

As for the transmission, that's another matter. For this you need 600-weight oil (yes, six hundred); some folks call this "steam cylinder oil". It's very thick and is designed to operate under harsh conditions without the sulfur that harms the brass components inside such as the worm gear and clutch plates. Check with a local industrial supplier or lubrication service for availability. If you can’t find 600W in your area, you can search on-line; I know that Lang’s Old Car Parts in Winchendon, Massachusetts, sells it, but it’s around $5/quart, and the total capacity of the transmission is three gallons, or about $60 at that rate. (Lang’s specializes in Model T automobile parts and has everything you need for your flivver, as well as the few Fordson parts that the Tin Lizzie shares with the Model F. Go to http: //www. modeltford. com – they're nice folks to do business with.) The thick nature of the 600W supposedly also shortens the time necessary for the clutch to warm up and function properly (i.e., allow you to put the transmission in gear without grinding).

That’s my 2¢ worth; others' mileage may vary.

– Maine Fordson

P.S. – Shoot me an e-mail and I’ll send you some odd bits of Fordson F info I’ve collected over the years, i.e., fluid capacities, specifications, etc. Nothing super-secret, just stuff I gleaned from sources on-line and put aside for later.

 

[Frank L]

Maine Fordson, Thanks for the info. I have filled the crankcase w/ 5w30 ( had it on hand) and will probably put some in the rearend to at least start the engine.Wil then look for the 600w that you mentioned. I have left the worm gear out of the rearend until I can get the engine running, so that I can tow the tractor out of the garage when starting to eliminate the fire hazard inside. I'm not sure if a Model F can be towed with the worm in it. I tried something over the weekend to start the engine. I removed the belt pulley, put it on the lathe and cut 2 size "A" v belt grooves in it. Then hooked up an old 1 HP electric motor, positioned it next to the the fordson, belted them together and plugged it in. With the belts loose, so that the 1 HP could get up to speed, I then tightened the belts and the 1 HP would drop down in speed and go on to the start-up windings--not enough HP I guess.(and that was with the spark plugs out) So now I need to fine a belt and go talk to my neighbor who has several working tractors. This is a learning experience and lots of fun.
Thanks again for your help. FL