Found the leak.

Fritz Maurer

Well-known Member
This is why I was asking about the block sealant .

Was thinking about washing the water jacket with trisodiumphosphate for maximum adhesion for any glue i pour in there. Otherwise the block is clean as the day it was cast, in addition to being hot tanked for the sleeve installation. Must have had core shift or some other defect.


Since the block hardener in drag cars is not intended to be used with coolant, i am not sure if that is the product I want.

The glass sealant seemed like the answer,but i didn't know the hole was that big.... don't know if that will work either.
20250810_204214.jpg
20250810_202219.jpg
 
This is why I was asking about the block sealant .

Was thinking about washing the water jacket with trisodiumphosphate for maximum adhesion for any glue i pour in there. Otherwise the block is clean as the day it was cast, in addition to being hot tanked for the sleeve installation. Must have had core shift or some other defect.


Since the block hardener in drag cars is not intended to be used with coolant, i am not sure if that is the product I want.

The glass sealant seemed like the answer,but i didn't know the hole was that big.... don't know if that will work either. View attachment 124158View attachment 124160
Look into Belzona. May be a good option.
 
Wire weld
It will not work on open holes. If it is very thin at that spot, I think steel wire mig weld in a non stressed spot will work. See the video Jim
Thanks Jim but what bothers me is if it is thin in that area as opposed to a single pit, striking an arc could blow it wide open. What is above the hole is unknown. But it is in a corner so it would be ok stress-wise. If I end up taking the crank back out I would definitely prefer that method.
 
There is a product that some welding suppliers, and hardwares carry. It is a two part epoxy. We actually carried it on our fire engines, for repIairing ruptured fuel tanks. It is a two part roll that you cut a slice of, and massage together. When hardened, it is actually machineable. It might be worth a try.
 
There is a product that some welding suppliers, and hardwares carry. It is a two part epoxy. We actually carried it on our fire engines, for repIairing ruptured fuel tanks. It is a two part roll that you cut a slice of, and massage together. When hardened, it is actually machineable. It might be worth a try.
Yes, I can tell you that stuff really does work! I did an emergency repair on my F12 the night before a show, the water jacket cracked on the inside crankcase..... Just plastered it on there and hoped it would hold for the day. Still on there 30 years later and I planted with it for a couple seasons!
 
There is a product that some welding suppliers, and hardwares carry. It is a two part epoxy. We actually carried it on our fire engines, for repIairing ruptured fuel tanks. It is a two part roll that you cut a slice of, and massage together. When hardened, it is actually machineable. It might be worth a try.
You just described Belzona. We used it at the nuke. Better on cracks but I maintain it would work in this application.
 
I used JB Water Weld on the radiator of my Hydro 70 two or three winters ago when a clamp on the hydraulic fluid cooler rubbed through it. Drained the coolant, cleaned it good with a brass brush and brake cleaner and stuck it on. It was supposed to be a temporary repair because it was winter and I couldn't have it broken down with the radiator in the shop. I needed it for snow removal. I forgot all about it until just now.
 
does it have a dry sleeve and is the sleeve split as well or is that just the coloring of the photo? I get there's no o rings to leak past but is there a bigger problem?
 
does it have a dry sleeve and is the sleeve split as well or is that just the coloring of the photo? I get there's no o rings to leak past but is there a bigger problem?
No , it is a 401 Ford that was bored for repair sleeves when no. 6 cylinder wall failed. The hole seen is adjacent no. 6 cylinder. Was only run long enough to pull out of the shop and parked in front of the door. I was stunned to pull the dip stick the next morning and it came out white.

At least we didn't have to push her very far to start talking it back apart!

So yes, to answer your question it is a dry sleeve.
 
No , it is a 401 Ford that was bored for repair sleeves when no. 6 cylinder wall failed. The hole seen is adjacent no. 6 cylinder. Was only run long enough to pull out of the shop and parked in front of the door. I was stunned to pull the dip stick the next morning and it came out white.

At least we didn't have to push her very far to start talking it back apart!

So yes, to answer your question it is a dry sleeve.
Wonder how that block made it past leak check?

Is that a Cleveland SD series truck block?

Mike
 
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