Fred Update

[Sean (TX)]

I got some primer on a fender and a dog leg.

 

[GB in MT.]

[b:7026fc575c][i:7026fc575c]

Well....knowing what those doglegs looked like, first hand, when ya started on them,
you have done a good job on them. At least if the other one, looks as good as the one pictured here.

Great job, Sean!!!!!

Gary 8) [/i:7026fc575c][/b:7026fc575c]

 

[Sean (TX)]

(quoted from post at 19:05:00 11/06/08) [b:2252b052c6][i:2252b052c6]

Well....knowing what those doglegs looked like, first hand, when ya started on them,
you have done a good job on them. At least if the other one, looks as good as the one pictured here.

Great job, Sean!!!!!

Gary 8) [/i:2252b052c6][/b:2252b052c6]

Thanks again for those dog legs Gary...I am by far from a expert welder. Grind weld and grind some more. They were worth the save!!! No rust at all. Did some welding on the fender today to. Very little bondo on either one

 

[jon]

Man you did good on them fenders.
I'm still waitin' on some feller to come along & tell me he's got his original 39 aluminum hood & grill packed away in a barn somewhere..... :lol:

 

[souNdguy]

Ditto what jon said.. them fenders came out nice!

soundguy

 

[Leemo]

Those are coming out nice. If you keep that up you're gonna have a real purty tractor.

 

[Dan in CO]

Sean:

What is left? is the hood salvagable? or do you still need to find another one?

 

[Sean (TX)]

Still need a hood, grill, water pump and a seat. I have a flip seat spring but no butt bucket.

 

[Sean (TX)]

You never know Jon. Ill bet one is in a barn somewhere.

 

[Sean (TX)]

Got the backside of the fender and dogleg today...The fenders are virgins :lol:

Treated with ospho yesterday.

Primed

Dogleg

This one has some welds. I ground them down on the outside and left the beads alone on the inside. To hard to get at with a grinder. You cant see in there after they are installed anyways...

 

[Dan in CO]

Man, you do good work! When we did Olie, we just ground off the old paint & rust, then wiped with brake cleaner, primed & finish painted with rattle cans. Looks OK at 20 ft.

 

[redleg]

looks good, hopefully, this spring, I'll be at the same point.

 

[Ed S.]

Looks great, Sean! Make sure you get some real paint on that primer soon - most primers don't seal out air and moisture and will allow oxidation to start pretty quickly...

es

 

[Sean (TX)]

(quoted from post at 22:51:52 11/08/08) Looks great, Sean! Make sure you get some real paint on that primer soon - most primers don't seal out air and moisture and will allow oxidation to start pretty quickly...

es

I know...Its rattle can but my compressor is still broke :roll: Going to borrow a compressor from my neighbor or brother. Oil base is cheaper then rattle can even if you use the hardener. Can you put oil based paint over rattle can primer? Did I screw up and have to strip it again?

 

[Sean (TX)]

Did I mention I miss my air compressor?

 

[Ed S.]

Can you put oil based paint over rattle can primer?

Sean,

You need to match primer to paint - enamel over lacquer will give you some really interesting crackle effects, for example. I usually try to buy matched primer and paint systems, but that's not always an option. At least try to ensure the paint type matches (oil enamel, latex enamel, laquer, urethane, etc.).

The TSC red oxide primer (oil base) worked really well under the TSC grey, and Rustoleum red I used.

Prep is [i:a844015337]everything[/i:a844015337] in a paint job...

es

 

[Sean (TX)]

(quoted from post at 12:08:38 11/09/08)

Can you put oil based paint over rattle can primer?

Sean,

You need to match primer to paint - enamel over lacquer will give you some really interesting crackle effects, for example. I usually try to buy matched primer and paint systems, but that's not always an option. At least try to ensure the paint type matches (oil enamel, latex enamel, laquer, urethane, etc.).

The TSC red oxide primer (oil base) worked really well under the TSC grey, and Rustoleum red I used.

Prep is [i:425bacd5e3]everything[/i:425bacd5e3] in a paint job...

es

I guess ill strip it back down and use the oil based primer....I used the red oxide primer on the rest of the tractor. I used the hardener too. I need a bigger electrolisis tank.

 

[Joe T (CO)]

(quoted from post at 10:22:54 11/09/08)

(quoted from post at 12:08:38 11/09/08)

Can you put oil based paint over rattle can primer?

Sean,

You need to match primer to paint - enamel over lacquer will give you some really interesting crackle effects, for example. I usually try to buy matched primer and paint systems, but that's not always an option. At least try to ensure the paint type matches (oil enamel, latex enamel, laquer, urethane, etc.).

The TSC red oxide primer (oil base) worked really well under the TSC grey, and Rustoleum red I used.

Prep is [i:77978617e6]everything[/i:77978617e6] in a paint job...

es

I guess ill strip it back down and use the oil based primer....I used the red oxide primer on the rest of the tractor. I used the hardener too. I need a bigger electrolisis tank.

I used rattle cans for primer. I then used alkyd enamel with hardener. So far I have not had any problems and it has been on there 2 years.

Yikes, I just realized I painted my tractor 2 years ago and still dont have a hood and fenders on it

 

[Sean (TX)]

(quoted from post at 13:26:16 11/09/08)

(quoted from post at 10:22:54 11/09/08)

(quoted from post at 12:08:38 11/09/08)

Can you put oil based paint over rattle can primer?

Sean,

You need to match primer to paint - enamel over lacquer will give you some really interesting crackle effects, for example. I usually try to buy matched primer and paint systems, but that's not always an option. At least try to ensure the paint type matches (oil enamel, latex enamel, laquer, urethane, etc.).

The TSC red oxide primer (oil base) worked really well under the TSC grey, and Rustoleum red I used.

Prep is [i:f0a7905209]everything[/i:f0a7905209] in a paint job...

es

I guess ill strip it back down and use the oil based primer....I used the red oxide primer on the rest of the tractor. I used the hardener too. I need a bigger electrolisis tank.

I used rattle cans for primer. I then used alkyd enamel with hardener. So far I have not had any problems and it has been on there 2 years.

Yikes, I just realized I painted my tractor 2 years ago and still dont have a hood and fenders on it

I am going to use Valspar Tractor & Implement Enamel(with hardener Ford Gray. Same stuff I used on my rims.

 

[lonestarjeff]

Sean:

Those skins look like new, great job! BTW, I used TSC rattle can primer & TSC out-of-the-can primer....applied TSC & Tisco enamel w/ hardener over both. Still looking good after 5 years.

Jeff

 

[Sean (TX)]

Built a Etank out of a old dishwasher 8) :lol: The second fender is cooking now. Charger is showing 4 amps that is good enough. I have lye in the tank.

 

[Sean (TX)]

24 hours in the Etank.....

 

[Dan in CO]

When it gets warm around here again in the Spring, I need to set one of those up to strip Sven's tin! I will be asking you some dumb questions then about the best way to go about it. Looks like it does a great job!

 

[Sean (TX)]

Easy enough to do. You will have to wait for spring or do it in a heated garage. Right click this link and select [u:0f2b4ccd07]save target as[/u:0f2b4ccd07]. Then save it to someplace on your hard drive. http://gvtc.com/~mcdonoug/Electrolysis.pdf

Use lye if you can find it. People were selling it on ebay. I prefer it over washing soda...It makes a nice paint stripper. I hit this with a wire wheel then some steel wool. Ill treat it with ospho then prime and paint.

 

[Dan in CO]

Thanks Sean, got er saved!

 

[Sean (TX)]

The second fender is out of the E-Tank. Not one dent in it

 

[Dan in CO]

[size=18:1e05b9fbe6][b:1e05b9fbe6]Sweet!!!![/b:1e05b9fbe6][/size:1e05b9fbe6]

 

[Dunk]

I wish I could do that to my whole '88 Blazer.