fresh rebuild wont start

I'm looking for a place to check at this point. My 9n front dist. has
a fresh overhaul and I cant get it to start. Seems to be sparking ok
and from what I can tell the distributor is on correctly,#1 cyl.
pushed my finger and rotor is coming to #1 position. I did line the
dots up on the gears when assembling.I've regapped the plugs
.25-.28 wires all appear to be good.Even though the carb seems to
be flooding,after drying the plugs and letting it sit awhile I would
think it would start with starting fluid while turning it over(gas shut
off).It seems like it wants to start it just wont. Might I have the dist.
turned 180 or is there something else I'm missing?Thanks, Jeff.
 
Fresh rebuilds usually equate to a tight (read - hard to turn over) engine. That makes the engine turn over slower and makes it harder to start. Lock the clutch down to reduce the tranny strain from the engine and watch the flooding. If it does flood, remove the spark plugs and burn the ends with a torch to clean off the gas residue. Make sure the points didn't slip or set higher than .015 on the gap. Open the thottle all the way, don't use choke, and give it a shot of starting fluid. Make sure the battery is fully charged.

That is the more common advice, but it could literally be hundreds of things. Troubleshooting may be required.

Some start right up, some (like my 1948 trailer queen) really challenge you on the first start up.

Good luck,
Dan
 
Thanks dan, I did most of that except the wide open throttle.I had it set about half, didn't want to over rev a fresh engine.I'll just have to watch it if it does start. Jeff.
 
You only open it up full throttle to start it - it helps against flooding. Once it starts quickly move it down to less than 600 RPMs until it warms up.

HTH,
Dan
 
I tow started mine after my rebuilb could not get it to start either


Hooked it to another tractor put it in second gear and within 30 feet it started


let it run for a bit it started on the button every time there after

I suppose the engine was to tight for the button until it was started and run for a bit.
 
They can be bears to start the first time after a rebuild. Low compression from the ring not being set in and all. You can add a little oil to each cylinder which will help compression and or pull start it. If you do pull start it make sure you have good oil pressure by spinning the engine over with the plugs out. Once you know you have good oil pressure just pull it in 3rd gear and it will probably start up in less then 30 feet if the timing etc. is correct
 
I know I can pull start it but then I'd have to finnish putting the front end on and the hood and then I'm still waiting to find a used front rim and another rear tire, hopefully both are coming soon.It seems to turn over real good with the starter,I'm just getting excited to hear it run. Thanks everyone and I'll give you a followup with pics when I do get it done. Jeff.
 
I'm also about 2 days from a "fresh" start up. paint tomorrow and install sub assemblies tue.
I have been wondering about pre lubing, I like the idea of spinning 'er over without the plugs, without a pressure pot, guess thats the olny way.
 
I assume you tractor is 6 volts. What I have done is to pull the plugs and jump the starter with a 12 volt battery until I get oil pressure (prime first). Then I put the plugs back in, turn the ignition key on and jump the starter again with 12 volt battery to start. Just put the 12 volt battery across the starter not across the 6 volt battery or it could blow up in your face.
 
If the rotor is coming to what you are calling number 1 after compression has passed,I think you need to move the wires back one.Actually after compression quits the rotor should be on ,or past number one just a little.To check this,turn your motor over until compression blows your finger off the plug hole,take screwdriver stick in the spark plug hole turn motor until screwdriver quits coming up and starts back down,get it as close as you can to the top of the stroke,check where rotor is pointing,if its not pointing nearly directly at the number 1 terminal of the cap, you might be calling number 1 the wrong terminal.Whatever terminal its pointing to then would maybe be number 1,providing you are on the compression stroke.
 
",take screwdriver stick in the spark plug hole turn motor until screwdriver quits coming up and starts back down,"

Do you think he might be turning the motor for a long time until that screwdriver moves? And if it does, does he really want to establish TDC based on either intake or exhaust valve movement in the #1 cylinder? Piston is kinda far away from spark plug hole.
c7.jpg
 
Oops.I messed up on that one.Yeah I see thats not going to work,so you would need something like a piece of wire maybe with a couple of bends so you could tell when the piston hit it.I only said that because he said after compression the rotor wasnt pointing to number one.Its real important that its pointing to the lug of what he is calling number one.My bad.
 
Thanks again guys. I did manage to get it to start a couple of times for just a couple of seconds so hopefully all ignition is good. I did however mess my starter drive up with all the turning over. So I guess it will be a couple of days before I get that fixed. maybe I'll try the pull start method, might have my tires and front end on by then. Jeff.
 
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