Front axle bushing TO35, which one??

[Inno]

I see two bushings listed on the acgo parts site, 180344M1 which looks like the standard bushing then there's the 182850M1 which is listed as a flanged bushing for the utility axle. The pin 183221M1 is the same for both types of axle.
Now on this site I see the 180344M1 (supposedly the standard bushing for ag. tractors) and another number which is listed as a flanged bushing 182850M1. It is listed as being for a "swept back axle". I'm guessing I should be ordering the 180344M1 bushing. The one on my tractor is too worn out to get a measurement from it.
I just found it funny that two different bushings with different ID would use the same size pin.

 

[Jason S.]

Yours should have the flanged bushing as they started using them around 1952. Can you tell if the bushing goes all the way thru the axle. The old style thin bushing goes all the way thru where the flanger bushing does not go all the way thru the axle.

 

[Inno]

Ok, I'll have a look. Thanks! I'm going to have to jack it up and take it apart, just trying to work ahead without taking it apart so I can get the part and take apart/put together same day.

 

[danderson]

I just changed mine out on Monday night. I originally bought the 182850M1 thinking a swept back was what mine looked like. After tearing apart it was the "all the way through" bushing, 180344M1. If you need the 182850M! let me know, you can have my extra one!

 

[Inno]

Thanks for the offer. I have ordered one and I hope I didn't make the same mistake. Haven't had time to take it apart to make sure but I needed to order some other parts so I went ahead. What year is yours?

 

[danderson]

1955. The pin had wore out through the bottom of the inside third of the bushing and rested on the cast iron. The front 2/3's of the bushing was intact . The old one I took out was split and the new one was a solid walled bronze bushing. It went in pretty easy and it appears as though any damage done to the cast iron is minimal as the bushing supports the pivot pin. My instructions stated to take the hood, radiator, and front end (I have a bumper as well) off. Looking at it instead of taking the entire front end off, i would simply unbolt the front end pieces that connect the spindles (2 bolts each side on mine) from the cast iron pivot piece that has the bushing.

 

[Jason S.]

Are you saying the flanged bushing wasn't used until 1955? There were TO-30's and TEA-20's that got them. It just depended on the axle beam that was installed at the time. Even Agco parts lists both bushings as being used in the 20's and 30's.

 

[danderson]

I can only vouch for the fact that my 1955 TO35 had the straight through bushing. I actually thought about having my machinist bore out the hole and use the flanged bushing as they are much more robust but then again.........

 

[Inno]

I am pretty sure mine has a flange on it on the side towards the engine. I'll know as soon as the parts show up if it's the same or not.

 

[DrLoch]

I'm in the process of ordering and replacing my pivot bushing and pin. From looking at it I should I believe I need the 182850M1 bushing, correct? Next question, It's hard for me to see a parting line, I intend to take in and bead blast it to get a better view but does the old bushing knocked out?

 

[Jason S.]

(quoted from post at 14:49:16 01/26/14) I'm in the process of ordering and replacing my pivot bushing and pin. From looking at it I should I believe I need the 182850M1 bushing, correct? Next question, It's hard for me to see a parting line, I intend to take in and bead blast it to get a better view but does the old bushing knocked out?

U

I replied under classic view and it made another post. I see they are making changes to the board again anyway here it is

Yes that is the correct bushing for your tractor. It does knock out. Some people install two bushings in the axle to give it extra support. It looks like the axle pin got into the axle and egg shaped the hole. You will want to take it to a machine shop and have that fixed before you install the bushings. Some machine shops weld it up and then bore it back to size and others bore it oversize and install a sleeve. Either way is ok if it is done properly. I had a previous thread on here about the axle pins. I recommend getting a pin from Agco. Mine cost two or three dollars more than the aftermarket one but it was a much better made pin.

 

[Jason S.]

Aftermarket one is on the left Agco pin is on the right

 

[DrLoch]

Don't understand the double posting but i would like to keep this thread moving since it has more information available for anyone searching like me. Actually the wear is just shy of getting in to the axle bore. I will know for sure when I get the old bushing out. What's the best method of getting it out?

I will look for a Agco source. Is there any that do web sales that you could recommend?

Thanks

 

[Jason S.]

(quoted from post at 15:22:49 01/26/14) Don't understand the double posting but i would like to keep this thread moving since it has more information available for anyone searching like me. Actually the wear is just shy of getting in to the axle bore. I will know for sure when I get the old bushing out. What's the best method of getting it out?

I will look for a Agco source. Is there any that do web sales that you could recommend?

Thanks

The bushing is bronze so it cuts easily. You can cut thru it with a carbide burr but most of the time I just take a chisel and a 5 pound hammer and drive them out. I have a chisel made from a jack hammer chisel and it works good for that job. You may find that adding a little heat will make it drive out easier.