Front end

[Jhill2583]

I have a 2n with a front end loader. I broke the heavy iron cross bar that the wheel assemblies attach to. I've looked for instructions how to replace it and have the replacement part. Can anybody offer any guidance to fix it?

Thanks
Merry Christmas

 

[Bruce (VA)]

" the heavy iron cross bar"

Do you mean the front axle? (as in the pic)

75 Tips

 

[Jhill2583]

It's the front axle that broke

 

[Bruce (VA)]

It has 3 parts.

Which one broke?

 

[Jhill2583]

The center part is broken

 

[Bruce (VA)]

part number 3010?

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 01:29:56 12/21/14) I have a 2n with a front end loader. I broke the heavy iron cross bar that the wheel assemblies attach to. I've looked for instructions how to replace it and have the replacement part. Can anybody offer any guidance to fix it?

Thanks
Merry Christmas

one on Ebay right now, shipping is more than axle

 

[Jhill2583]

Yes it's 3010. I've got the part. I just need some guidance how to install it

 

[Bruce (VA)]

First, check out tip # 39.

A set of manuals for a 60+ year old tractor will be a great help to you.

The most difficult part of the job will be stabilizing the tractor w/o a front axle. Jack it up w/ the front tires off the ground & use cribbing and jack stands under the pan AND transmission. (yes, 2 places) Block the rear wheels front & back.

Remove the front tires.

Then, remove the tie rods. Soak the radius rod pins w/ PB Blaster & drive them out w/ a punch from the bottom. (do NOT use a hammer; you’ll mushroom them)

Remove the left & right axles w/ the hubs still attached.

Now you’ve got the front motor mount & center axle still on the tractor.

Remove the front motor mount w/ the center axle attached.

Remove the king pin from the motor mount.

The front flange on the pin is a teardrop shape. After you've removed the retaining bolt, use your drift on the side of the flange down low (narrow end of the teardrop)and your BFH to drive the flange toward the opposite side. This turns the pin in the hole and breaks the rust bond. Then whack it the other direction, apply some penetrating oil, and knock it out from the back. Breaking that rust bond before hammering it out makes the job much easier.

75 Tips

 

[GB in MT.]

(quoted from post at 11:11:30 12/20/14) First, check out tip # 39.

A set of manuals for a 60+ year old tractor will be a great help to you.

The most difficult part of the job will be stabilizing the tractor w/o a front axle. Jack it up w/ the front tires off the ground & use cribbing and jack stands under the pan AND transmission. (yes, 2 places) Block the rear wheels front & back.

Remove the front tires.

Then, remove the tie rods. Soak the radius rod pins w/ PB Blaster & drive them out w/ a punch from the bottom. (do NOT use a hammer; you’ll mushroom them)

Remove the left & right axles w/ the hubs still attached.

Now you’ve got the front motor mount & center axle still on the tractor.

Remove the front motor mount w/ the center axle attached.

Remove the king pin from the motor mount.

The front flange on the pin is a teardrop shape. After you've removed the retaining bolt, use your drift on the side of the flange down low (narrow end of the teardrop)and your BFH to drive the flange toward the opposite side. This turns the pin in the hole and breaks the rust bond. Then whack it the other direction, apply some penetrating oil, and knock it out from the back. Breaking that rust bond before hammering it out makes the job much easier.

75 Tips

b:f7d17977bd][i:f7d17977bd]

Jhill;
Along with the instructions that Bruce Just gave you.....here is a picture of my 2N, as I replaced the axle, and damaged parts....axle pin should be replaced NEW when re-installing.
Also inspect the WHOLE front axle for any other damages.
Mine was pretty messed up before repair!!!

Hope this will help ya!!
NOTE....the cribbing used, and a safty jack, for back-up!!!


Gary[/i:f7d17977bd][/b:f7d17977bd]

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Great idea Gary.

Doing it your way will save a bunch of steps. And no need to deal w/ welded radius rod pins!

 

[GB in MT.]

[b:609f73596c][i:609f73596c]
Thanks Bruce!
Unfortunitly..../he will have to remove the FEL forward, to use my system!!!! Can be done, as you know, BUT the FEL has to be almost cleared forward to check for any other damages to the AXle components, and the axle standard too!!!
FEL's, are a PITA, for getting fixes made, on the front end!!!

GB[/i:609f73596c][/b:609f73596c]

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 03:29:41 12/21/14) [b:6b8bb8f84a][i:6b8bb8f84a]
Thanks Bruce!
Unfortunitly..../he will have to remove the FEL forward, to use my system!!!! Can be done, as you know, BUT the FEL has to be almost cleared forward to check for any other damages to the AXle components, and the axle standard too!!!
FEL's, are a PITA, for getting fixes made, on the front end!!!

GB[/i:6b8bb8f84a][/b:6b8bb8f84a]

Not all FEL are a PITA> I like my one armed loader! :lol:

 

[souNdguy]

I hear ya! Love them 711/722