Front Loader on 706

[FinallyFarming]

Needing to re-install my front loader on my 706.

Do I necessarily need a 2nd tractor to do this?

The loader is sitting too low to drive under the bar and hooks

 

[Roger in Iowa]

Hook up hoses and extend your cylinders. The hooks will raise up to pins on tractor.

 

[FinallyFarming]

Hook up hoses and extend your cylinders. The hooks will raise up to pins on tractor.

Thank you Roger.
I have not yet installed all my new hoses. I need to do some other maintenance on the loader.
I can raise the hooks fully, manually but the problem is that over time, the support legs have sunk into the dirt about 4 inches, making it impossible to get alignment. If it had been on concrete or I had put something solid under the legs when it was detached that would likely work.

I don't yet have any kind of crane or any other tractor to life the loader so I'm trying to devise an alternate way to get the support legs back up to the ground surface level,. At the moment I'm thinking I need two Jack-alls

 

[Janicholson]

Thank you Roger.
I have not yet installed all my new hoses. I need to do some other maintenance on the loader.
I can raise the hooks fully, manually but the problem is that over time, the support legs have sunk into the dirt about 4 inches, making it impossible to get alignment. If it had been on concrete or I had put something solid under the legs when it was detached that would likely work.

I don't yet have any kind of crane or any other tractor to life the loader so I'm trying to devise an alternate way to get the support legs back up to the ground surface level,. At the moment I'm thinking I need two Jack-alls

Hoses on and plumbed correctly, then extend the lift cylinder as Roger indicates. Drive forward till the sockets match the pins. close the latches and drive forward 10+ inches and use the "lower" lever to align the front bar with its bracket. drive ahead again, adjusting for height. get the bars placed where they belong. Enjoy. Jim

 

[FinallyFarming]

Hoses on and plumbed correctly, then extend the lift cylinder as Roger indicates. Drive forward till the sockets match the pins. close the latches and drive forward 10+ inches and use the "lower" lever to align the front bar with its bracket. drive ahead again, adjusting for height. get the bars placed where they belong. Enjoy. Jim

I really apologize if I am not grasping this.

So is this to confirm that it makes no difference if the stands are buried deep into the sand? Because without connecting the hydraulics I can manually extend the cylinders fully, and get them to remain in that position, but the sockets are still 4 - 5 inches lower than than the pins on the tractor.. If they are fully extended now, how does fully extending them with the hydraulic hoses connected make any difference?

Let's say for the sake of my confusion that the support stands have sunk over a foot into the sand. You are saying I should still be able to fully extend the lift cylinders and drive forward into the hook socket with the pins? I see no way to do that. I still think I need jack alls (or another tractor) to raise the loader so the stands are not sunken into the sand.

It seems to me I have a logistics problem since the support stands are significantly lower than they would be on hard ground or a solid surface which has the receiver sockets lower than normal. If the support stands were not sunken into the sand, the pins would line up and then I could drive the tractor into the sockets.

Also, at a certain point where the tractor has been driven forward so that the pins can engage the sockets, the front tires are up against the horizontal bar that goes into the front of the tractor. When you extend the hydraulic cylinders, the front horizontal bar MUST go down.

I just want to be sure you are saying it does not matter if the stands that hold the entire loader up when it is detached are sunken into the sand up to 5 inches because until I raise the loader up so that the stands are on the ground level I cannot see how the tractor will be able to get into the loader properly? Is this all corrected when the hydraulics are connected? How?

I am VERY confused over this. Your patience is appreciated.
I'm pretty sure you are correct..but I have a serious brain block going on over this.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Finally I see both points. Roger is right if it only needs a wee bit of height adjustment. And I can see your issue with the front tires. I would get the hoses on and then work your cylinders so they are full of oil and solid then you could just pivot the front bar up with the tractor then with a block under it so the tires clear pivot the loader higher to clear the side pins. This would mover your front up to align with the front mount also. Seems easier than all the jacking . And then in the future if you could park it under a barn beam you could lift it with a block and tackle if needed or at least be solid on the ground with a plank piece under the feet. The method I described would also lift the feet so you could put blocking under them to hold it up enough to go on the tractor. We never had a remove able loader. At least not one that would come off easily like that. Ours you have to unbolt from the rear axle then take the supply and return lines off All up under the tractor With no supports unless you block it up or use another loader tolift it back into place. and there are the side front mounts the channels slide into as you drive up to it.

 

[FinallyFarming]

Thanks caterpillar guy. I couldn't wrap my head around how I was supposed to get the sockets back on the pins if the loader was sunk down into the sand. I'll give that a try.

As the loader sits now, sunk into the sand, it's a bit of a mess. It sat for a year and that allowed it to sink down from it's own weight. From now on I will never remove it without something solid under the feet to keep that from happening.

Harbor freight has an overhead beam that can support up to 1000lbs and I'm guessing the entire front loader is under that (not sure).
I may have to get one.

 

[used red MN]

Does your tractor have a fast hitch or 3 point? Turn it around and back up to one side or the other and lower the hitch. You will want to align one of the lift tugs nearly right beside what you are calling the socket. Wrap a chain around where I drew the black line in the photo carefully raise it up and re-block it, done.

 

[MARK ROBKE]

What I would try is to dig a trench where the front tires go, dropping the tractor down. Just need a shovel, if the dirt is soft enough. Mark.

 

[jwal10]

Growing up we had brackets on both a 706 Farmall and a 504 utility for that same loader. You could take it off the 504 and put up on the 706 by just dumping the bucket cyl to raise the loader up higher, drive into the front bracket, then lifting the back into place with the loader cyls. Reverse for the 504. Really nice sturdy loader....James

 

[FinallyFarming]

Couldn't get the loader back on with it sunk into the dirt. So I got it back up out of the dirt.
Will not unload it into dirt going forward without solid footing under the landing gear.
Thanks again for all the good advice. Would have worked if it wasn't so deep in the dirt.

 

[FinallyFarming]

Does your tractor have a fast hitch or 3 point? Turn it around and back up to one side or the other and lower the hitch. You will want to align one of the lift tugs nearly right beside what you are calling the socket. Wrap a chain around where I drew the black line in the photo carefully raise it up and re-block it, done.View attachment 85119

Neither. Just a draw bar.