Front Mount Distributors

I had surprisingly good luck - but expect to replace the condenser soon (or better yet, put a better condenser in before installing it). Most of the aftermarket/cheap N parts (especially the carbs) are complete junk. But a while ago I needed to tune up the front dizzy on my grandfather's old 2N. The bushings were worn, the brass contact screw had been stripped at some point and was cobbled together, the contact strip between that screw and the points was all bungled/twisted, the advance weight bores were worn oblong, etc. I was going to do a standard rebuild of the original, but because this is our own tractor and I'm not too fussed about keeping things stock (and because I just wanted it running again soon and have too many projects on the go) I thought I'd give one of the cheapo Amazon ones a try. I figured even if it was just the body/bushings that were good and I had to swap internals it was still worth a shot.

I did find that everything on the new one was completely dry - I took it apart and lubed up the bushings, advance mechanism, and points cam prior to installing. And I had to clean the oxide coating off the points (one quick/light stroke with a fine points file) and set the points. But it worked and is still working dandy - and I'd say we use that N more than most folks use their N: raking/tedding, pulling wagons, and logging a red pine plantation. And the nylon bushing for the brass contact screw and conductive strip on the new dizzy are (in my opinion) a better design/material than the original.

The condenser in the new one did go bad after a year, which was to be expected: A lot of new/cheap condensers don't last very long. But I replaced it with a better quality condenser and it's been fine ever since.

In short: I'd normally advise to stay away from all cheap aftermarket N parts. And I'm usually an advocate for keeping things as original as possible. But the Amazon dizzy seems to be holding up well. If the bushings and advance mechanism on your old one are worn, the Amazon one will be a lot quicker/cheaper/easier than rebuilding the original. I'd still keep the original around just in-case (and because if you ever sell it, the new owner might prefer to keep it all original). And if I were putting another Amazon one in, I'd still lube it up before installing and probably replace the condenser with a better quality one pre-emptively.
 
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I had surprisingly good luck - but expect to replace the condenser soon (or better yet, put a better condenser in before installing it). Most of the aftermarket/cheap N parts (especially the carbs) are complete junk. But a while ago I needed to tune up the front dizzy on my grandfather's old 2N. The bushings were worn, the brass contact screw had been stripped at some point and was cobbled together, the contact strip between that screw and the points was all bungled/twisted, the advance weight bores were worn oblong, etc. I was going to do a standard rebuild of the original, but because this is our own tractor and I'm not too fussed about keeping things stock (and because I just wanted it running again soon and have too many projects on the go) I thought I'd give one of the cheapo Amazon ones a try. I figured even if it was just the body/bushings that were good and I had to swap internals it was still worth a shot.

I did find that everything on the new one was completely dry - I took it apart and lubed up the bushings, advance mechanism, and points cam prior to installing. And I had to clean the oxide coating off the points (one quick/light stroke with a fine points file) and set the points. But it worked and is still working dandy - and I'd say we use that N more than most folks use their N: raking/tedding, pulling wagons, and logging a red pine plantation. And the nylon bushing for the brass contact screw and conductive strip on the new dizzy are (in my opinion) a better design/material than the original.

The condenser in the new one did go bad after a year, which was to be expected: A lot of new/cheap condensers don't last very long. But I replaced it with a better quality condenser and it's been fine ever since.

In short: I'd normally advise to stay away from all cheap aftermarket N parts. And I'm usually an advocate for keeping things as original as possible. But the Amazon dizzy seems to be holding up well. If the bushings and advance mechanism on your old one are worn, the Amazon one will be a lot quicker/cheaper/easier than rebuilding the original. I'd still keep the original around just in-case (and because if you ever sell it, the new owner might prefer to keep it all original). And if I were putting another Amazon one in, I'd still lube it up before installing and probably replace the condenser with a better quality one pre-emptively.

How long did the points last?
 
I haven't had great luck with the cheapest coils for front mounts. But then again, I haven't had 100% luck with the more expensive ones either. Not going to hurt anything to try one of the cheaper coils - just don't be surprised if it has issues after a while. I'd 'probably' stick with a better quality one myself, but after having issues with several different ones I could be convinced either way. If you really want the best/most robust coil, the best route is to do the round cannister coil conversion. But lots of folks (including me) have and are running standard front coils just fine.
 
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How long did the points last?
It's still on the set of points that came with the dizzy. I'm a little surprised they're still good (especially since a bad condenser can burn the points). But so far so good. I may have cleaned them up when I replaced the condenser - I suspect I did, but can't remember for sure. Folks these days have very mixed opinions about cleaning/filing points. Some folks (not without reason) say that you don't want to use a points file, as you can wear off the hardened factory surface/chrome. But my opinion is that once they're used a little and have a little pitting/burning, you're not hurting anything to do a very light touch up with a file. And a lot of new points (including the Echlin ones) seem to have a thick protective oxide layer on them right out of the box that you need a file to clean off with a points file anyway - the old paper bag or dollar bill trick doesn't seem to do it anymore.

These are my own thoughts/experience anyway - others may very well have different experiences.
 
It's still on the set of points that came with the dizzy. I'm a little surprised they're still good (especially since a bad condenser can burn the points). But so far so good. I may have cleaned them up when I replaced the condenser - I suspect I did, but can't remember for sure. Folks these days have very mixed opinions about cleaning/filing points. Some folks (not without reason) say that you don't want to use a points file, as you can wear off the hardened factory surface/chrome. But my opinion is that once they're used a little and have a little pitting/burning, you're not hurting anything to do a very light touch up with a file. And a lot of new points (including the Echlin ones) seem to have a thick protective oxide layer on them right out of the box that you need a file to clean off with a points file anyway - the old paper bag or dollar bill trick doesn't seem to do it anymore.

These are my own thoughts/experience anyway - others may very well have different experiences.

I worked in a shop long ago when many motorcycles still had points.

We would dress the points with a flexible plastic, abrasive impregnated strip, called a "Flex stone" . Snap On man used to sell them and they came in various grits.

They worked great and could get the used points smooth enough, that gapping them with a feeler gauge, gave an accurate dwell.
 
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