Front Pulley Nut

[Jim L WA]

I'm working on a '49 8N engine I'm putting in me '44. This bolt head that's holding the pulley on is new to me. Is there a special tool or trick to unscrewing it?
I've thought about welding a nut to it, but thought I would ask here first.
Jim.

 

[soaked]

Hi Jim,
This bolt came to me on a non running 8n, all chewed up. PO had loosend, then tightened with im guessing a chisel. I got if off same way

Not sure if heat from welding would damage the crank seals...
John

 

[Jim L WA]

Hi Jim,
This bolt came to me on a non running 8n, all chewed up. PO had loosend, then tightened with im guessing a chisel. I got if off same way
View attachment 160077
Not sure if heat from welding would damage the crank seals...
John

I may have to try that. Good thought on damaging the seals, but I'm thinking that a tack and let it cool and repeat a few times wouldn't damage the seal. The crank itself will absorb a lot of heat.
Thanks for replying Soaked and your thumbs up olddavid.

 

[Jim.ME]

A draglink socket (aka slotted bit) fits those. They are like big screwdriver blades for use with socket drive tools. McMaster, Snap on, Mac, maybe NAPA and other places that have tools can get them, eBay, Amazon, many places.

 

[used red MN]

Not sure if heat from welding would damage the crank seals

If he would weld a 1/2” long bead then let it cool before he add another 1/2” the seals would be non the wiser!

 

[Tall T]

I may have to try that. Good thought on damaging the seals, but I'm thinking that a tack and let it cool and repeat a few times wouldn't damage the seal. The crank itself will absorb a lot of heat.
Thanks for replying Soaked and your thumbs up olddavid.

The trick when using the chisel method, is to only use a sharp-ish chisel to create a purchase point for a very dull chisel or punch
so you don't chew up what slot you have to start with.
Have the chisel force you're applying conform with the curve that the head has to travel as you strike the blow.

Make the first blow your best shot and use a heavy hammer, because every failed shot makes for less of a bolt head to work with.

But first of all use a penetrating fluid that really works.
In my 50 years of 50's trucks, there is nothing that matches Amsoil MP.
for instant rust cutting and lubrication at the same time.

I just readjusted the steering arm link to the tie rod on my '51 truck.
The arm has a huge screw with a cotter pin in the slot at each end; screws for tightening up the cups against the balls.
A screw driver wanted to keep climbing out of the slots and I needed to go in tight before backing off one turn.
So I made this tool out of a flat file handle that fits the slots perfectly and I can use a big adjustable wrench on it.

So maybe you can clean up your slot and make a bit to fit it that you can put a big adjustable wrench to.
You could have a friend lean on the bit, keeping it square while you focus on trying to loosen it.

Too many people buy into the heating up the bolt theory rather than its surrounding metal.
but if you do heat up the bolt, give it a long time to shrink back down to cold size before attempting to remove.
Things i've had to heat in the past while not overheating anything in proximity, I've use cold water soaked rags to keep the surroundings from excess heat.

Terry