i have an 8N front mount distributor. i discovered that i wasnt getting any fuel to the cylinders. the fuel line is fine and i get fuel to the carb. from there on ther is nothing. i assumed the carb was gummed up so i bought a rebuild kit and plan on cleaning the whole thing out. my question is if there would be anything else keeping the fuel from getting to the cylinders other than descibed? i would appreciate it.
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
How did you check fuel flow? You should remove the bolt at the bottom of the carb to do that.
Get a can & put it under the carb. Remove the bolt in the bottom of the carb; as long as the fuel is turned on, you should see gas flowing out of the carb. Let it run for at least 30 seconds. If it’s a dribble, or runs for 5 seconds & stops, or none at all, you have solved half the problem: it’s fuel related. If gas flows well out of the carb & only stops when you turn it off at the sediment bowl, chances are very good it’s not a fuel delivery problem.
If it does not have gas coming out of the carb at a steady stream w/ the bolt out for at least 30 seconds, you have a fuel problem. First, remove the gas cap. Your vent could be clogged & it vacuum locked. If that doesn’t work, tap the carb bowl w/ a hammer handle in case the float is sticking closed. (don’t whack it w/ the head of the hammer; you can crack the bowl). If you still don’t see gas flowing, the N has three fuel screens; one in the brass elbow, one in the top of the sediment bowl & one on the stem of the sediment bowl in the gas tank. Check the screen in the elbow & the screen in the top of the sediment bowl. (don’t worry about the one in the tank) Both probably need to be cleaned. If you have the fuel knob turned on all the way, & 1 gallon or less in the tank, it may be trying to feed off of the reserve inlet which is probably clogged. Only open it 2 full turns. Put at least 2 gallons in the tank. (and do not forget to turn the gas off; see tip # 9)
Regarding the carb elbow, don't honk down on it; it's brass. First, use a flare wrench to remove the fitting. (as in the picture) Next, if you do not have another fitting to screw into the elbow (as in the picture) then use a crescent wrench on the top & bottom (NOT the sides) of the elbow to remove it. Otherwise, you will distort it & you will never get the fuel line fitting back into it.
There are 6 things critical to a successful carb rebuild:
1. RTFM. Read The Freakin Manual....in this case, the carb overhaul article by Don Stewart on this site. If you don’t rebuild a lot of carbs, lay out each piece you remove on a clean shop towel so that you don’t lose the little screws/jets, etc.
2. Get the very caustic cleaner that comes w/ a wire basket from your local auto store & follow the directions.
3. Use a wire, welding rod tip or whatever it takes to clean every single passage. Be careful w/ the wire; you do not want to bore out the passages. If you do not have a set of gunsmith screwdrivers to remove the jets, be very, very careful. (this is an excuse to get a set)
4. Blow out every passage w/ compressed air (this is an excuse to buy a compressor, BTW)
5. Make sure both halves mate; use a straight edge.
6. Make sure the throttle bushing are ok before you start because most kits do not come w/ them. If you need throttle bushings, replace them or the tractor will never idle due to air leaking.
50 Tips
Get a can & put it under the carb. Remove the bolt in the bottom of the carb; as long as the fuel is turned on, you should see gas flowing out of the carb. Let it run for at least 30 seconds. If it’s a dribble, or runs for 5 seconds & stops, or none at all, you have solved half the problem: it’s fuel related. If gas flows well out of the carb & only stops when you turn it off at the sediment bowl, chances are very good it’s not a fuel delivery problem.
If it does not have gas coming out of the carb at a steady stream w/ the bolt out for at least 30 seconds, you have a fuel problem. First, remove the gas cap. Your vent could be clogged & it vacuum locked. If that doesn’t work, tap the carb bowl w/ a hammer handle in case the float is sticking closed. (don’t whack it w/ the head of the hammer; you can crack the bowl). If you still don’t see gas flowing, the N has three fuel screens; one in the brass elbow, one in the top of the sediment bowl & one on the stem of the sediment bowl in the gas tank. Check the screen in the elbow & the screen in the top of the sediment bowl. (don’t worry about the one in the tank) Both probably need to be cleaned. If you have the fuel knob turned on all the way, & 1 gallon or less in the tank, it may be trying to feed off of the reserve inlet which is probably clogged. Only open it 2 full turns. Put at least 2 gallons in the tank. (and do not forget to turn the gas off; see tip # 9)
Regarding the carb elbow, don't honk down on it; it's brass. First, use a flare wrench to remove the fitting. (as in the picture) Next, if you do not have another fitting to screw into the elbow (as in the picture) then use a crescent wrench on the top & bottom (NOT the sides) of the elbow to remove it. Otherwise, you will distort it & you will never get the fuel line fitting back into it.
There are 6 things critical to a successful carb rebuild:
1. RTFM. Read The Freakin Manual....in this case, the carb overhaul article by Don Stewart on this site. If you don’t rebuild a lot of carbs, lay out each piece you remove on a clean shop towel so that you don’t lose the little screws/jets, etc.
2. Get the very caustic cleaner that comes w/ a wire basket from your local auto store & follow the directions.
3. Use a wire, welding rod tip or whatever it takes to clean every single passage. Be careful w/ the wire; you do not want to bore out the passages. If you do not have a set of gunsmith screwdrivers to remove the jets, be very, very careful. (this is an excuse to get a set)
4. Blow out every passage w/ compressed air (this is an excuse to buy a compressor, BTW)
5. Make sure both halves mate; use a straight edge.
6. Make sure the throttle bushing are ok before you start because most kits do not come w/ them. If you need throttle bushings, replace them or the tractor will never idle due to air leaking.
50 Tips
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