Fuel line

[caraneo]

Hello,
I bought an 8n saturday that runs but has problems. It is very easy to flood when starting, then on the oppsite end i think it is starved for gas after it runs for a few minutes. It has basically been sitting in a garage unused for several years. I think my first task is to fix the fuel line and rebuild carb. My question is what is the correct fuel line to connect the fuel trap sediment bowl to the carb elbow? Right now there is no sediment bowl at all but a black rubber hose clamed onto an inline filter going straight to carb elbow. Thanks for any guidance.
Chad

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Before you start any repairs, it would be a wise move to get the manuals. (see tip # 39)

The manuals, fuel line, sediment bowl & brass carb elbow are all available on this site or from nnalert's.

My suggestion is to put it back the way Henry made it (as in the picture) and forget about an in-line filter.

But......

After replacing all of that, you may need to replace the gas tank as well.

Is the tractor 6v or 12v, front or side distributor?

After you get the bowl & line replaced, hold off on a carb rebuild. It may just need points, plugs, condenser, rotor & cap & the timing set.

As to it flooding, that's usually operator error.

While each N has its own starting sequence, none of them will start well by just yanking out the choke rod & holding it out for 5 or 10 seconds while the engine cranks. This is a gravity fuel system on a low compression engine; it is easily flooded by too much choke.

Try this:

Key on, gas on 2 full turns, clutch in, 3/4 throttle, press the starter button. Let it crank for at least 3 - 4 seconds before you pull the choke rod. Then, don't hold it out for more than 2 or 3 seconds.

If you find out it will not start w/o excessive choking, you have problems.

75 Tips

 

[R Geiger]

This site sells the sediment bowl and metal fuel line.

 

[caraneo]

(quoted from post at 09:34:21 11/14/16) This site sells the sediment bowl and metal fuel line.

Thanks. Its front mount 6v. I will work on everything else before opening carb. I have found many fuel lines for tank to sediment bowl but not for bowl to carb elbow. Any idea what the name or part number is?
Chad

 

[HFJ]

hi chad, and welcome to YT

where are u looking at parts listings? u say u find listings for a fuel line from tank to bowl. the thing is, there's no such animal on a N, the sediment bowl attaches directly to the fuel tank. u must be looking at parts listings for a different tractor.

 

[HFJ]

the part number is 9N9282A. u can get one [b:9e36e6e6d5]here[/b:9e36e6e6d5].

 

[caraneo]

(quoted from post at 10:08:11 11/14/16)
the part number is 9N9282A. u can get one [b:bb6965526d]here[/b:bb6965526d].

Ok thank so much for clearing this up. I guess the custom fuel line thats on there is whats throwing me off. There is a line off the tank to a t valve, then inline filter then rubber hose to carb. Makes sense now. I have shop manual and was really confused since i thought the line iff the tank was correct and i guess i was stuck on that.
Chad

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Did you see the picture I posted?
75 Tips

 

[tractorguy2]

You can make your own fuel line much cheaper. You need a 1/4 steel brake line. You can buy them at any auto parts store for about
$6.00. If you order a fuel line you will pay $24.99 plus shipping.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

" You can make your own fuel line much cheaper. You need a 1/4 steel brake line. You can buy them at any auto parts store for about $6.00. If you order a fuel line you will pay $24.99 plus shipping."

Assuming he owns a tubing bender.......

About $20 for the cheap ones last time I looked.
75 Tips

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 12:59:04 11/14/16) " You can make your own fuel line much cheaper. You need a 1/4 steel brake line. You can buy them at any auto parts store for about $6.00. If you order a fuel line you will pay $24.99 plus shipping."

Assuming he owns a tubing bender.......

About $20 for the cheap ones last time I looked.
75 Tips

and a flaring tool. and the nuts. by the time you waste several chunk, you would be cheaper to buy ready made one. If you have all the tools and are experienced in making them, go for it.

 

[caraneo]

(quoted from post at 11:45:28 11/14/16) Did you see the picture I posted?
75 Tips

Yes, and it makes perfect sense now. I thought it was from right side before because that is where the current in line filter is. My preconceptions blinded me to the obvious. Thanks again

 

[caraneo]

(quoted from post at 11:45:28 11/14/16) Did you see the picture I posted?
75 Tips

Yes, and it makes perfect sense now. I thought it was from right side before because that is where the current in line filter is. My preconceptions blinded me to the obvious. Thanks again

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 15:17:42 11/14/16)

(quoted from post at 12:59:04 11/14/16) " You can make your own fuel line much cheaper. You need a 1/4 steel brake line. You can buy them at any auto parts store for about $6.00. If you order a fuel line you will pay $24.99 plus shipping."

Assuming he owns a tubing bender.......

About $20 for the cheap ones last time I looked.
75 Tips

and a flaring tool. and the nuts. by the time you waste several chunk, you would be cheaper to buy ready made one. If you have all the tools and are experienced in making them, go for it.

No bending, no flaring, no experience needed, and about $25 in parts. He could even keep the filter if he wanted. Plus it's what they use on race cars so you will probably get 2 more HP ;-)

TOH

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 13:45:46 11/14/16)

(quoted from post at 15:17:42 11/14/16)

(quoted from post at 12:59:04 11/14/16) " You can make your own fuel line much cheaper. You need a 1/4 steel brake line. You can buy them at any auto parts store for about $6.00. If you order a fuel line you will pay $24.99 plus shipping."

Assuming he owns a tubing bender.......

About $20 for the cheap ones last time I looked.
75 Tips

and a flaring tool. and the nuts. by the time you waste several chunk, you would be cheaper to buy ready made one. If you have all the tools and are experienced in making them, go for it.

No bending, no flaring, no experience needed, and about $25 in parts. He could even keep the filter if he wanted. Plus it's what they use on race cars so you will probably get 2 more HP ;-)

TOH

I have made a lot of steel braided fuel lines when I was working on helicopters. try cutting that stuff with anything but the proper tool. Good luck with the extra HP. ;-)

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 15:54:12 11/14/16)

I have made a lot of steel braided fuel lines when I was working on helicopters. try cutting that stuff with anything but the proper tool. Good luck with the extra HP. ;-)

Cutting it can be interesting :roll: I had good success wrapping it with tape it and using a 4" cutoff wheel but there definitly was a learning curve....

TOH

 

[Skip Burney]

Why don't you just make one out of soft copper tubing, I have flown antique airplanes all over the country with 3/8 or 1/2 inch soft copper lines. If it is good enough for an airplane it is surely good enough for a tractor.

 

[caraneo]

I read copper tubing turns the gas tank into the anode and results in more tank rust. Not sure if its true but makes sense. Stainless on an aluminum boat corrodes the normally stable aluminum.

 

[Royse]

(quoted from post at 22:46:06 11/14/16) I read copper tubing turns the gas tank into the anode and results in more tank rust. Not sure if its true but makes sense. Stainless on an aluminum boat corrodes the normally stable aluminum.

Pre-made, 1/4 inch brake line, 30 inches long at the local
parts store. The "new" can't-kink line can be bent by hand.
Be careful, because it [b:46a63c6110]can[/b:46a63c6110] kink, but at 30 inches you can
make gradual bends by hand and it fits fine without benders.
Both ends of the line are the correct fittings for the elbow and
the sediment bowl too. No flaring tools required at all.
Less than $5 in my local area.

I've never tried 1/4 copper with a double flared end.
I suppose you could change all the fittings to flare, but you
would lose the screen that is in the brass elbow going into the carb.
My old Farmalls use copper with a loop in them to give them flex and
help keep them from cracking. At least that's what I've heard it's for.
They use larger line and compression fittings though.

Yes, they're easy to flood. Another thing to check besides the
points/good spark is the air cleaner. It may need to be cleaned.
Does it do the same thing with the tube disconnected?

 

[Skip Burney]

I don t know about tank corrosion but many of the old airplane fuel tanks were made of a metal called Ternplate it is a thin carbon steel sheet that has been dipped in lead and the tanks were then lead soldered together and copper lines were used as well as copper lines for oil pressure gauges. I think my 9N has a copper fuel line but I could be wrong.

 

[tractorguy2]

You don't need a tubing bender. I have replaced several fuel lines and have made many many brake lines without a bender.

Steel line is easier to work with than copper. Steel will not kink as easy as copper.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Nuttin to it.... The regular silver steel tube'N is EZ to bend by hand if you still have both thumbs NO bender needed. If you live in the rust belt and don't want to buy a double flaring tool you should have no problem finding someone to flair it for you.

It takes some practice to get good flairs with a cheap tool that uses dies. Copper is a NO NO it will not double flair either. The other issue is the flair nut may bottom out before it can get a good seal on the copper flair. You will trash a good bowl trying to tighten it to stop a leak.

https://photos.yesterdaystractors.c...Parameter=hobo,nc&w=pieces&cc=&s=

You can add the bend at the bowl if you feel the need too. If you use copper don't leave the ground with it :shock: