Fuel resistant adhesive

[GordoSD]

I've finished cleaning and prepping my gas tanks for the H and SMTA. Refurbished the outlet strainers and made up new steel lines. I drilled out the tops of the strainers to 5/8 and installed 1 inch sections of copper freezer pipe into them for little stand pipes. The copper tubes go in there nicely but are not tight. I can rotate them with my fingers.
I'd like to cement them in there. I need a fuel resistant adhesive. Where to find and who makes it? Would JD Weld hold up immersed in gasoline?
Is there a metal product like pipe thread teflon sealing tape?
I tried tinfoil but it's too thick.
Then what do you guys use on the strainer threads when installing them into the tank bottom?

Gordo

 

[rustyfarmall]

JB weld will do the job. Just be sure to let it cure at least overnight before exposing it to gas. I made a similar standpipe on my M and used JB to hold it in place. That was at least 8? years ago. still in place and still holding.

 

[GordoSD]

Oooops, make that 5/16 tubing

Gordo

 

[GordoSD]

Rusty, how long did you make it? Mine extend 5/8 of an inch from the strainer, and are set 3/8 inch deep into it. I saw the tip on the Ford board. And there was some discussion in the Ford archives.

Gordo

 

[Bob M]

Gordo - JB Weld will hold up for a long time, but it won't last indefinitely immersed in gas.

I've patched several carb floats, strainer screens etc. with JB. Discovered that after 6 - 8 years of exposure to gas the JB tends to soften and lose its bond.

(Incidentally I found the same thing happens to JB when it's continually immersed in motor oil.)

I'm sure there are gas-resistant epoxies, etc. out there - I just don't know what they are.

Any way you can solder the standpipes in place? (Probably not because the sediment bulb body is likely zinc diecast...). Or can you expand 'em (work 'em a bit over a suitable mandrel, etc to start a bit of a flare at the end) to give 'em a light interference fit into the strainer assembly?

----

For sealing the sediment bulb threads in the tank bottom, regular old teflon tape works fine and it lasts indefinitely.

 

[Janicholson]

How about using a nail or punch to swell up the pipe so it presfits into the fitting. If one of them is copper, and the other is zink, there may be corrosion due to electrolysis. (just a thought) JimN

 

[Redfan]

Gordo, I've had good successes with PVC jointing cement. Tipped some in a 10-20 fuel tank and Honda farm bike tank and no more leaks or seepages. Secret is to shake and rotate the tank after you've poured the cement in to spread it and let it sit for 24hrs afterwards.
Also made a new carby float for a 15-30 with cork coated in PVC cement.

 

[Edpap]

I use this stuff called Seal-all it is made for gas and oil.it is a contact adhesive and sealant it will seal up a gas tank great. it drys fast and it holds up well. I see on the tube they have a web site www.seal-all.com. I get it at my local hardware store.
I think this will work great for what you want to do.
Good Luck Ed

 

[rustyfarmall]

I don't remember exactly on the depth or the length, but I'm sure it is close to what you did.
I think I made mine out of a piece of steel fuel line, probably 5/16". I know I had to drill out the inside of the inlet to get it to fit. If I remember right, I also JB'd a strainer screen from a fuel inlet fitting onto the standpipe. The whole thing sticks up about 1 1/2" from the bottom of the tank.

 

[GordoSD]

Seemed like a brilliant solution. Used a tapered nailset the right size and "swelled the tube. It was TIGHT to get in there with my hand. Got it about 1/2 way in. When I tapped it home with a very small hammer, it just reformed back to it's original size, loose. Will go with the PVC cement. I had another old strainer body, so I drilled that in the press with a 19/64 bit. Too small, so I polished the tube on a motor driven cork abrasive wheel til it was a very very snug fit. BTW what size is a letter F bit?
Thanks for the help guys. I'll let you know in a year how much gook is at the bottom of the tank, that is NOT going through the fuel system.
Wonder if I will end up with 1/2 inch of ice down there next winter?
Also just for info, the gasket and strainer from IH was less than 3 dollars.

Gordo

 

[GordoSD]

I Googled fuel reistant adhesive and saw that. But no luck finding any in this little town on the prairie.

Gordo

 

[GordoSD]

Rusty, do you have a source for those fuel inlet screens? I have some inlet fittings w/o them. At 18 dollars a pop at IH I'd like to refurbish those fittings with screens.

Gordo

 

[Farmer(Ga)]

Gordo, You can get seal all at your local wal-mart,$1.94 if it hasent gone up, I use it and its good stuff. James

 

[rustyfarmall]

I've been searching those fittings everywhere I can think of for about 5 years now, and I still have to get them at Case-IH, and yes, they are about $18 a pop.