Fun project

Ultradog MN

Well-known Member
Location
Twin Cities
I bought this drill press for my pal Kenny to use last summer. It is an exact copy of a Swedish Arboga E830 but built in Taiwan.
It is a nice drill but the base was cracked. I tried welding it but it kept cracking so I decided to make a new one.
Ken's nephew was able to get the 1/2''x top plate laser cut where he works.
I cut all the pieces and started tacking them together last week. Then full welded it all yesterday.
Today I layed out all the holes and drilled and tapped them.
It's kind of a post modern impressionist's interpretation of a drill press base. In other words it's fake.
But it will work.
It's the kind of project that I like.
And it's good practice, which I need, cause I still aspire to someday being a geezer who can make stuff.
For now, I'll get some paint on it and call it good.
The last photo was my contrivance
for transfering the bolt holes for the column from the old one to the new.

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It looks good.

Now, if you want to really make it look like cast iron, grind about a 2 degree angle on the sides, then paint it with paint that has ceiling texture added to it.

Just kidding! If it was mine, I would paint it and be done.
 
Don't forget to check how well the two pieces fit together before tightening the bolts. If there are gaps between the surfaces, or the column rocks, you don't want to ignore the problem lest you strain the joint when tightening the bolts . . . at the very least, fill the gap with shim.

It would be a real shame to snap off any of the column mounting ears.
 
That is a good point John.
Thanks.
I believe it is pretty flat though. With a light behind a 12'' machinist ruler I cant see any light.
But it wouldn't hurt to make a gasket - say from a cereal box, to put between the square flange and this new base.
 
That's a good way to locate holes, and use the thing as a bushing for drilling. Well thought out.

I do quite a bit of locating in somewhat the same matter. You can turn a bushing to match the hole diameter, then use a locating punch inside the bushing. Remember to use layout ink for the initial punch mark...........it allows you to just lightly tap the locating punch, instead of ruining it. Then you can follow the dimple with a real punch.

mvphoto112231.jpg
 

When I worked in an aircraft job shop, they had a nice set of transfer punches that we used a lot. They consisted of an outer bushing like you show. You would put that over something like a mylar drawing and it had a glass rod the slipped into that outer bushing. That glass rod had a cross hair in it for locating the bushing exactly where it was supposed to be. Then you would carefully remove the glass rod and place the actual metal punch in the bushing and give it a tap. It was a pretty neat set up.
 

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